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Ram 3500 CTD advice needed #2651139
05/02/19 08:37 AM
05/02/19 08:37 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,060
Western New York
sixpackbee Offline OP
master
sixpackbee  Offline OP
master

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,060
Western New York
OK, I am looking to buy a 10-16 dually. The few friends I Have in the trucking biz say to stay way away from the trucks with DEF. Nothing buy a headache. Which leaves me up to a 12 & down. My dilemma is I like the upgrades they did on the 13 & up. Electronics package is way nicer and trans/frame/engine upgrades too. Most everyone said deleting the EGR is a must regardless. So, to those in the know what do you say about the 12-down vs the 13 & up conflict. Is the EGR thing true too? My 96 is so reliable I hate to give it up but I have had for 21 years and the newer ones are so much nicer to travel in. Thanks for your input.


1959 Bugeye Sprite
1967 Charger Black L code
1967 Coronet R/T Convert Green 440 auto bought from original owner
1968 Charger R/T Bronze 440 4 spd console AM/FM
1969 Super Bee WM21H B5 A40 D21 N96
1969 Barracuda Formula S 340 Convert pilot car
1969 Hemi Road Runner RM23J D32 Omaha orange 4.10 Dana N96 N85
1970 Super Bee WM23N FE5 V1X 3.91 axle package, N96
1970 Road Runner RM21N B3 V1X D13
1971 MG Midget
1971 Road Runner RM23H GW3, A57
1972 Road Runner RM23P FY1, D21
Re: Ram 3500 CTD advice needed [Re: sixpackbee] #2651161
05/02/19 10:25 AM
05/02/19 10:25 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,976
Chilliwack B.C. Canada
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RUNCHARGER Offline
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RUNCHARGER  Offline
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Chilliwack B.C. Canada
It seems going the newer one and deleting it seems to be the way to go.


Sheldon
Re: Ram 3500 CTD advice needed [Re: RUNCHARGER] #2651566
05/03/19 01:17 PM
05/03/19 01:17 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,136
Palm Coast, FL (near Daytona B...
Blown_Hemi Offline
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Blown_Hemi  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Palm Coast, FL (near Daytona B...
I picked up a 2010 dually with 46000 miles. It is deleted and I love it.


Ask me my opinion of Frank Mitchell....... A Mopar crook!
Re: Ram 3500 CTD advice needed [Re: sixpackbee] #2651882
05/04/19 12:49 PM
05/04/19 12:49 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,560
Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick Offline
Still wishing...
Twostick  Offline
Still wishing...

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,560
Downtown Roebuck Ont
Originally Posted by sixpackbee
OK, I am looking to buy a 10-16 dually. The few friends I Have in the trucking biz say to stay way away from the trucks with DEF. Nothing buy a headache. Which leaves me up to a 12 & down. My dilemma is I like the upgrades they did on the 13 & up. Electronics package is way nicer and trans/frame/engine upgrades too. Most everyone said deleting the EGR is a must regardless. So, to those in the know what do you say about the 12-down vs the 13 & up conflict. Is the EGR thing true too? My 96 is so reliable I hate to give it up but I have had for 21 years and the newer ones are so much nicer to travel in. Thanks for your input.


Find a way to stay in love with your 96. Air ride suspension, new paint, late model seating, whatever it takes.

Everything after 03 has issues. EGR, common rail injectors that hang open and hydraulic lock the engine, (boom) diesel particulate filters, $$$$, DEF, more $$$$$$ VGT turbos $$$$ it just doesn't stop. The newer stuff runs ok when it runs but when any of the above mentioned quits, the check engine light comes on or worse and a tow truck gets involved.

Properly maintained, that 12 valve will easily go 500,000 miles or more. If you convert the pump to manual shut off, your electrical system could fail and you are still trucking.

Kevin

Re: Ram 3500 CTD advice needed [Re: Twostick] #2653967
05/10/19 10:20 AM
05/10/19 10:20 AM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,260
New Mexico
A
Adobedude Offline
pro stock
Adobedude  Offline
pro stock
A

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,260
New Mexico
I concur, keep the 12 valve.

I bought a 2001 24 valve manual 6 speed quad cab 4x2 in 2016 with 97K on it for 15,000, it tows my Race Dakota and lives in my garage, 103K on it now, absolutely love everything about it. It's show room perfect, what I really like is it's exactly like my late fathers truck, only his was a 12 valve and I didn't buy it when he passed, I've tried to since, no luck.
Fast forward to a couple months ago, I bought a 2007 one owner 4x4 24 valve with 125K on it for 15,500, it's as clean as the 2001, but...It's gonna be a money pit, 68rfe, VGT turbo this and that, DPF this and that....$$$. I bought the 07 replace my 2500 98 5.9 gas RAM work truck, but I'm selling the 07, keeping the 98, I love everything about the 07 except for the future repair bills, and they are gonna happen, get on the Cummins forums.
I should have done my homework.


2001 Dodge Dakota
408 All Motor
11.27 @ 117.83 mph
2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion.
Re: Ram 3500 CTD advice needed [Re: Adobedude] #2654060
05/10/19 02:57 PM
05/10/19 02:57 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,060
Western New York
sixpackbee Offline OP
master
sixpackbee  Offline OP
master

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,060
Western New York
Thanks for the help. I joined the Ram Cummins forums. The general consensus is keep the 12v or buy a 14 and up. My 96 would require too much work for me right now. Just don't have any free time so I now will narrow my search and hopefully something comes up.


1959 Bugeye Sprite
1967 Charger Black L code
1967 Coronet R/T Convert Green 440 auto bought from original owner
1968 Charger R/T Bronze 440 4 spd console AM/FM
1969 Super Bee WM21H B5 A40 D21 N96
1969 Barracuda Formula S 340 Convert pilot car
1969 Hemi Road Runner RM23J D32 Omaha orange 4.10 Dana N96 N85
1970 Super Bee WM23N FE5 V1X 3.91 axle package, N96
1970 Road Runner RM21N B3 V1X D13
1971 MG Midget
1971 Road Runner RM23H GW3, A57
1972 Road Runner RM23P FY1, D21
Re: Ram 3500 CTD advice needed [Re: sixpackbee] #2654155
05/10/19 08:38 PM
05/10/19 08:38 PM
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 695
Southern Alberta
Uberpube Offline
mopar
Uberpube  Offline
mopar

Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 695
Southern Alberta
I have an 06, its been a good truck. I use it daily as my work truck, I have about 2000lbs of weight in it all the time, plus I tow a skidsteer tractor around with it. The biggest issues with the common rail 5.9 is the 48re trans in stock form is a bit light for the truck. Find a decent trans builder and the truck will last you for a really long time. The HO 5.9 gets decent mileage and has quite a bit of power stock. I've done one set of injectors at 350,000 km's . The truck rolled over 500,000 kms this morning on a out of town service call.

Re: Ram 3500 CTD advice needed [Re: Twostick] #2654551
05/12/19 11:17 AM
05/12/19 11:17 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Mesa , Az
Jambbii Offline
mopar
Jambbii  Offline
mopar

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Mesa , Az
Originally Posted by Twostick
Originally Posted by sixpackbee
OK, I am looking to buy a 10-16 dually. The few friends I Have in the trucking biz say to stay way away from the trucks with DEF. Nothing buy a headache. Which leaves me up to a 12 & down. My dilemma is I like the upgrades they did on the 13 & up. Electronics package is way nicer and trans/frame/engine upgrades too. Most everyone said deleting the EGR is a must regardless. So, to those in the know what do you say about the 12-down vs the 13 & up conflict. Is the EGR thing true too? My 96 is so reliable I hate to give it up but I have had for 21 years and the newer ones are so much nicer to travel in. Thanks for your input.


Find a way to stay in love with your 96. Air ride suspension, new paint, late model seating, whatever it takes.

Everything after 03 has issues. EGR, common rail injectors that hang open and hydraulic lock the engine, (boom) diesel particulate filters, $$$$, DEF, more $$$$$$ VGT turbos $$$$ it just doesn't stop. The newer stuff runs ok when it runs but when any of the above mentioned quits, the check engine light comes on or worse and a tow truck gets involved.

Properly maintained, that 12 valve will easily go 500,000 miles or more. If you convert the pump to manual shut off, your electrical system could fail and you are still trucking.

Kevin


I am a mechanical injection person at heart but I would beg to differ..... 03-07ish in my opinion are great because they have no emissions equipment besides a catalytic converter. Put decent fuel filter setup on it and no hanging injectors. Custom tuning is all you need and it will run circles around a 12v with locked timing. Keep in mind that even the mighty 12v has issues (Dowel Pin).


70 Challenger
1960 Town Wagon P Pump 24v cummins project
06 Mega 3500 Drw 2wd
12 Durango R/T
18 Power Wagon
67 A100
Re: Ram 3500 CTD advice needed [Re: Jambbii] #2654651
05/12/19 03:30 PM
05/12/19 03:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,976
Chilliwack B.C. Canada
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RUNCHARGER Offline
I Live Here
RUNCHARGER  Offline
I Live Here
R

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,976
Chilliwack B.C. Canada
I really liked my 05, It handled nice compared to my 02. I got scared I was going to have an injector pile up on it though and sold it well before that would happen (150k). The 14 and up probably drive way better as well but they seem to need to be deleted to be trouble free.


Sheldon
Re: Ram 3500 CTD advice needed [Re: RUNCHARGER] #2661704
06/03/19 12:23 AM
06/03/19 12:23 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 13,185
aZLiViN
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J_BODY Offline
I Live Here
J_BODY  Offline
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Joined: May 2003
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aZLiViN
14 and newer have been a great package. That’s the route I’d go if I were getting rid of my 01.5.







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