I did everything per the hydratech instructions. Made my own PTFE braided lines. Correct install every which way. I pushed the DOT3 fluid out and pushed in DOT4. I used about 1/2 gallon of fluid until the brown muck that was in there came out looking like extra virgin Greek olive oil. Used a pneumatic one man Air bleed system. I gotta say, it looks amazing in my engine bay. Testing it now has led me to an issue. When I step on the brake pedal the RED emergency brake light illuminates on my dash.. Every single time I press the brake pedal. Is there more air in my brake lines?? ... Did the proportioning valve lose its mind because I have crazy amounts of pressure going through my braking system now? Factory Vacuum boost assist is 1,250psi. The Hydratech system pushes 2,150psi. I haven't changed anything else on the braking system. Police Duty rear drums and front single piston calipers. I do have new Stainless lines, caliper rebuild kits and a new proportion block with rear bias dial on the way....but my father taught me to install one thing at a time and make sure systems are working before I introduce to many variables and then in hunting for a gremlin

Red brake light... What to begin from?

I'm no expert but my thought was since you changed the position of the 2 brake lines out from the master look for a slight kink in one of the lines.

The loops are still intact on both front and rear the flared fittings only moved forward about 1.25" each

The light coming on indicates an imbalance in pressures between the front and rear side of the differential valve.
Could be due to
air in either side of the system or master,
improper routing of the lines,
a stepped bore master that delivers different pressures,
or brakes that are applying at different times (check adjustment on rears for excess clearance).

I might have to wait for the adjustable bias valve to get proper pressures. I can't see it being air in the system but I can bleed them again...no problem.

This is the Master I installed

The brake light on the dash in my Duster comes on from time to time and I have hydroboost but I realized that the emergency brake lever that engages the emergency brake is a bit loose and slides around enough to engage the light sometimes.

An adjustable proportioning valve can be installed either in place of the factory valve or after the factory valve, not before it. So unless you use it in place of the valve the light will still be coming on. I would suggest driving it some if the brakes are working and then bleed them again.

I remember that on my 70 Dart...it would flicker on and off....this is a solid ON until I release the brake pedal

Talked to a friend who installed a few, he says the adjustable valve is needed but my bleeding sequence might need altering. I did it the old fashion way with drum brakes because I have them. RR, LR, RF, LF. He suggests to treat it like a disc/disc install and do it LF, RF, LR, RR. Hydratech instructions say to allow for 500 miles after initial testing to work out the kinks such as air pockets in the nitrogen reserve. Going to give them a call later today and see if they suggest anything beyond the brakebleeding

If the brakes are working like they should then unplug the warning light wire.

Talked to the tech at Hydratech and he told me I still have air in the line somewhere, probably at the proportioning block...I have the car sitting at a 20 degree angle...hopefully the bubble will dislodge....going to push through another 1/2 gallon of fluid and then give it a good old fashion brake pedal bleed....He told me it will take about 150 miles for the steering system to clear out the micro bubbles and another 350 beyond that for the entire brake system to balance out. In the event that light doesn't go away, yeah...I'm pulling the pigtail from behind.

Right now when I step on the pedal it feels like an ABS pedal...which it shouldn't be. It has to feel like a manual brake pedal, firm.