Hi folks, I have a 30 over 440 in a 70 cuda. I race/drive at 5000-5300 ft altitude Colorado.not a true zero deck motor, the motor is probably 9.5-1 motor with the mopar 284/484 single pattern cam duration @ .50 is 241, i have Harland sharp rocker arms 1.6 ratio, so I have approx .520 lift. edelbrock rpm heads ,ported,good valve job,comp springs, good to 600 lift. edelbrock rpm intake, headers,4.10 gear, 3800 jw perf stall convertor, 28 inch tall tire. i amthinking about putting in a hughes cam that is broke in already, it was in a buddys 68 valiant 440,he made about 2 dozen runs on it. it is 283 lift advertized 238 @.50 and lift with 1.6 rocker arms will be 571 intake, 576 exhaust. split pattern cam hughes # HE3844BL... Will this cam be a dog on bottom end,i.e. will I loose torque?,it has a little bit less duration than my current cam ,and about .50 more valve lift, wondering if its worth the swap. thanks in advance,jim

I would expect a little more bottom end, and valve float at an earlier rpm than with the 484 cam.

I think it would probably be quicker, but I don’t know if it would be quicker enough to make the swap worthwhile.

Only one way to know for sure.

Personally, if I were going to bother changing the cam....... I’d put a solid in it.

You need to know first that I hate all of the Mopar house grinds like the Purple Shaft They are absolute junk in my opinion
To answer your question on cam swapping you need to make sure that none of the lobes are abnormally worn or any visible defects like cracks in the hard coating, especially on the lobe tops Same thing on the lifters, they need to have no visible wear or marks on the bottoms and they must be put back on the same lobes they where run on in his motor. If they aren't either buy a new cam and lifters or buy all new lifters and break them in like the cam and lifters are new
Do you know how to degree the cam in so you can follow the advice on installing the intake lobe center where the cam grinder wants it install at? If not get help so you can do that
More lift with less duration should make the motor have more low speed power, not less
I can't tell you how many people I know install the cam with the gears dot to dot and had those motors ran like horse Doo Doo
I had that happen on the first solid roller cam I installed in a boat motor, I lined up the dots and check the cam timing and thought it was "close enough" and it sounded great when running without a load on the motor, in the water in gear that motor would not rev past 300 RPM, it would run over 6500 RPM with the old solid lifter cam in it
It was ground 10 degrees retarded on the intake lobe timing, the alignment pin was install wrong by the cam grinder
I never install any cam dot to do any more, NEVER

that's an engle camshaft with an advertised 285 degrees at .008" lift on the intake, and 294 degrees at .008" lift on the exhaust. the 284/.484 is 237 at .050", not 241 as mopar states. the engle is more cam and is probably ground on 110lsa with a couple of degrees advance. other factors may play in to any performance gains.

Not worth the possible gain which would be very little if any. Not worth the risk of using a old cam. If you’re gonna change cams o agree with Duane. Switch to a solid.

Is a modern name brand flat tappet solid lifter and cam more reliable than their hydraulic counterpart? This is assuming proper oil during break in and thereafter.

hugh's website has a dyno test using the 3844 camshaft in a 440. I don't think a 284/.484 could match those numbers.

I'm with Cal_ , the purple shaft cams are the worst on the market. They were designed back in the 60's I believe. The 484/284 was the first cam swap I made in a 440. Biggest mistake I ever made. It was worse than the stock cam. I have ran some Isky cams back in the 80's. I think they were called Mega cams. One was 485/235 an excellant street cam, lots of bottom end. Then my favorite was a 525/246 both were great cams.