Just read the thread about aluminum fuel line which got me thinking about how old some of the braided hose is in my heap. SO,,,,,,,,,,,,
I have 12an from the cell to the pump,10 an from the pump to the 4 port regulator and 8an from the regulator to each bowl.
With all the "in the know" guys watching this little ole thread,how much would I save going to cotton braided line?

A good bunch depending on the amount of line coverage that you replace.
I can talk to you later about it in detail.

In your case, a bunch. Do you have braided line from back to front or just from the connection points? If it's the whole length of the chassis, it will be at least a few pounds.

There's also the "push on" type hose. It is slightly heavier than the woven type but will still be much lighter than braided steel. The main drawback to push on hose is that it can be a bear to assemble.There are assembly tools available now though and if you're going to do the whole car, it might be worth looking into. Push on hose uses barb fittings so you'd be buying all new fittings and hose ends if you switch everything. The barb fittings don't require separate tube nuts so that could save a little money.

Before you jump in though, you might want to look at the cost vs. weight savings. Fittings add up quick and you got a lot of 'em. You could re-use your old fittings with woven hose though I'm not sure you'd want to...changing out all the plumbing on your car ain't gonna be cheap no matter how slice it.

Just turn up the wick on the blower, you'll forget all about what kind of hose you have and how much it weighs.

The majority of of the fittings are 20 years old o if I do it,,,,,,,,,,,,,, All black fittings with black hose
Now is braided from the cell to the carbs.

Well there you go, that's an easy few pounds right there if you're willing to change it all out. Did some searching for ya, Al, found this page which had a lot of info on various hose types. .

Pegasus Racing hose comparison chart

If you click on the hose types in the summary chart, it will take you to the individual hose type page and they have weights listed. Based on the charts they provide, the weight of -12 stainless braided hose is 4.53 oz per foot. The woven hose in the same size and length is about half the weight of the old braided @ 2.6 oz. The Push-lok type hose is a little over 3 oz. but again, you might end up saving a little money and weight without the need for tube nuts for the regular -AN fittings.

I went with an all aluminum Moroso hard line from my tank (in stock position) all the way to the Aeromotive 10 micron filter just below the firewall, then I went with Aeroquip and pro-lite nylon braided hoses in black along with black fittings all the way to the fuel log. My return line from the regulator is all nylon braided Pro-lite back to the tank.
Looks very cool in that it doesn't flash all kinds of colors and such. Lost a decent amount of weight in the whole deal, but then again, y'all know what I've been after all along.

I replaced all of my 20 year old braided stainless last year with the Aeroquip startlite braided line. The weight difference is substantial. I replaced everything too. I had a mix of Earl’s, Russell and Aeroquip. Now it’s mostly just Aeroquip stuff. If you pull that trigger you won’t regret it.

As a side note I use to have the aluminum hardline running the full length of the car too, it got replaced with the braided. I use -10 to -8. The -10 goes from fuel cell to filter to pump everything after that is -8 clear up to the carb bowls.

Here ya go, real world proof

My -8 Aeroquip startlite with fittings is 3.6 ounces a foot. The hose is 1.3 ounces a foot.

I have an old 6” long (hose length not including the blue ends) stainless braided line the is 3.9 ounces. So probably 8-9” total length

The black line in those pics is 1” and it weighs .1 ounces an inch.

Each fitting weighs 1.3 ounces. The biggest weight loss will be eliminating connection points.

The best reason I have to swap from stainless braided to the cloth braided is no longer do I have to tape ends and use a saw to cut the stuff and then jam those sharp little braids into my fingers. Now I get out my pex plumbing cutting tool and cut the length I need and assemble it.

PLease let us know how hard or easy it was putting the fittings on.

An advantage now would also be that we know exactly the length of hose needed.......

I can tell you this much about aluminum hard line. It is plain HARD to both bend and maneuver into place if you are going the route that I did which is to mimic the factory line route. My hands and fingers were hurting for days. I used all the proper tools to bend and flare, but still a pain. The end results is both clean and factory looking except that the line is 1/2 inch.

The cloth braided stuff was way easier in my opinion than the old stainless stuff. Although I now have the vise jaws for assembly. I still just use Craftsman wrenches though.

I also bought the Aeroquip assembly lube, which makes it super easy.

If you get the shears to cut braided steel line it makes assembly so much easier. No tape, no saw, no frays, no stabbed fingers.
A little bit of wheel bearing grease on the threads makes the fittings go together much easier too.

I think changing from the braided steel hose to the lightweight stuff is a very expensive weight loss program. If starting from scratch or if you just have a lot of money, then it's a no brainer. That's what I did on my other car when I ran out of leftover braided steel line and fittings to use.

My reason for swapping wasn’t weight loss, although that was an added bonus. I have a black quikfuel carb and the stainless and blue and red didn’t look good in my opinion.

Al, getting the fittings on the woven hose is easy, its the same as putting them on the braided steel but without the bleeding fingers.

Again, the Push-Lok hose with the barb fittings is the kind that's tough to assemble. This is the tool to assemble that type of hose. Push Lok hose assembly tool

If you don't order it online, SK carries XRP brand which I was not that partial too but I'm sure it's fine, I just like Rusell. Moreland Hose and Belting in Hempstead has Aeroquip and maybe another name brand. They can crimp lines too.

That tool looks great but if you are under the car and trying to put a hose on a 90* bend its worthless.Some simple oil on the fitting and a heat gun on the hose and it goes together easily and 1 less tool to buy. Just finished a complete fuel assembly and it was cost effective, time effective and no SS pricks.

Greg,in that picture it looks like rubber hydraulic hose like my flatbed. The only place I would like a pushlock is going into the regulator.
Fragola,Aero,Earls, are a few of the best.Yes,I would have to but everything at once or id need be buy a little at a time.

I see what you mean, first pic looks like a crimped pressure hose.

Regardless of what they are showing, the way it works is you chuck the fitting in the end clamps like they have it, set the hose in place and turn the wheels to literally crank the material onto the barb fitting. I'm sure the he-man brigade will mock my lack of strength but if I assemble Push Lok by hand I can barely get the hose past the second barb. You need a little heat, a little lube and a lot of mechanical advantage to get the hose all the way seated.

It sounds like a P.I.T.A. that's because it is. Its very good hose though and again, much lighter than Ye Olde steel braided. Even though I could only get the hose to a certain point, I've never had it leak. The hose almost becomes vulcanized to the fitting and won't come out unless you cut the hose.

RMCHRGR ,this can help you shed some weight But you can't get this At Jenny Craig!

Must go to Jack Lalean

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/786082.html

i thought ol jack cashed in years ago ?