M/T DRs on Cragars. The Mickeys take a ton of weights and after a trip to the track the tires have moved several inches on the rims and will shake your fillings out at any speed over about 40. I have tried glue and High Tack. But they still move. Any other suggestions on keeping them in place other than bead locks or drilling the Cragars? Would it be any help to rough up the bead area of the rim and then glue it?

I have heard of knurling the bead, but I don't know who does it or if it even helps.

Suggestions?

I'm surprised the Permatex hi-tack didn't work, that's what I used on my mid 10 second Duster. It was a 275/60 Pro on an 8" wide Centerline aluminum wheel. I was just foot braking.

Clean the tire bead with lacquer thinner, then scuff the bead with red scotch bright and clean again with thinner. Clean the wheel again carefully with thinner to get clean. Using brush on a high Tach throughly brush a nice layer on the tire bead and mount the tires. Pump the tire pressure up to tires highest rated pressure to hold bead tightly against the wheel and let sit over night before installing on car. I have done this for years with zero issues. Rush the job and you are flipping a coin. Good luck

I'll try that.

Thank you!

Some of these tires have like a slippery mold release compound on them. I know my slicks do so I like to get it off

IIRC I read somewhere that someone had their wheels knurled to stop the tires from slipping on the wheels. Maybe I was dreaming. lol

Last year I bought a 2nd set of rims so I'd be able to switch b/t radials and slicks if the track was crap. I used rim screws w/ radials for over 10 years w/ no issues, but now it's a bad idea? lol.
So I decided to put the radials on the new set of rims w/ no rim screws. I scuffed the bead area w/ a scotch brite pad and used hi-tack. I wish I'd marked them to see if they moved, but I didn't. Only have about 5 good passes on them though.
I've heard from a couple of fellow racers that they ended up going to bead locks after having them move even w/ hi-tack. Comparing my car to theirs, I may have to do the same.

Both Dizusters turbo car and mine are glued with purple Permetex. No special rum prep. Just cleaned with lacquer thinner. His haven't slipped at all. I had one that slipped about 4" 1st 10 passes. No slippage since. I'm confident enough in this method to run tubes. My car has been 1.24, his 1.38
Doug

A lot of the guys over on Hellcats.org have the same problem that I do, slipping the tire on the rim enough to mess up the balance and then having a lot of vibration on the road. Most have not had any luck with High Tack. But they are launching a 4,300+ porker with a 1.5 60'.

I have a new set of DRs that will be going on shortly. I am going to try scuffing and cleaning the beads of both the tires and the rims and throwing on some High Tack.

And I see that bead locks are available for either one side or both sides. Is the one side bead lock a cosmetic thing or is it okay to only bead lock one side to hold the tire in place? If locking only one side in place is okay, could I screw just the inside of my rims? I hope to be able to avoid screwing the outside of my Cragars.

I clean the rim and tire completely dry with brake clean then apply the hy tack to the rim. Now the important part is make sure your installer doesn't use rim lube to install the tire it will defeat the purpose of the hy tack.
Gus

I always just drilled the rims and installed screws.

At what weights? Both the hit and the weight play a role here. Since adding the Hemi and 518, my Cuda is a porker now at 3,850.

From what I'm told, you can just get one side bead locked. Both is better, but pricy.

FWIW...my car is nearly 3900 lbs and has been 1.30 sixty foot. Should easily go 1.2x if I can keep the front end down.
I never had any problems at all w/ screws in the radials going 1.32-1.34 sixty foots for 10+ years at 3800+ lbs.

The only reason I would prefer to avoid screws is the cosmetics. I just do not want them on the outside of my Cragars. Now I would have no problem screwing the inside bead and would do that if it is okay to do. If fact, I would do both, clean and glue the beads and install screws on the inside. But I would want to know that screwing just one side is safe.

These darned Mickeys take a ton of weight. Sometimes 4 or 5 ounces. So when they are out of balance, you sure know it!

I completely understand not liking the looks of the screws. I would not screw one side only. Just my opinion.

The first time I had a set of drag radials spun on the balancer and saw how much weight it was gonna take to balance them...I told them to stop and not worry about it. I've never had a set of rear tires balanced on my car and never had any problems. Same w/ slicks.

I don't like the looks of screws either but, I could not get mine to stop moving ..

It did in fact move both sides unequal ..

Gave up , put screws in

I use to mark my radial drag tires tires with a small dab of shoe polish on the tire by the tire stem, once it moved a inch or two I would swap the rims from side to side to move them back
Most of them would take a set after swapping sides several times and not move anymore
I was running 18+ Lbs. also with no glue or rim screws either, 3450 Lbs. running mid to low 1.40 sixty foot times
I had to add rim screws on the bias tires though

This is exactly what I did. I switched to radials and had the same issue with the tires spinning on the rim, well one tire. Cab gave me the same advise and it worked as described.

My Pro Bracket Radials tend to move after a few passes, and like was said before they take some weight to balance so it is obvious when they move.

I have thought about having Holeshot add bead locks to one side of my rims but I just can't put bead locks on a 10 second car.

Mine is 3350 on 10.5's foot brake, 9.0@150 best Dizusters is 3750 with radials on a trans brake, 9.55@142 best.
Doug