I've seen tools for installing the bushing, but what's required to remove one from an assembled engine?

I thread them and pull them out with a slide hammer when the engine is together. If you do, make damn sure you thread the whole bushing and screw the slide hammer to the bottom of the bushing.,otherwise you just pull the top of it off. And then I say a few cuss words, throw the tool, take a break and start over.

That's what works best for me. YMMV

Is the engine installed in the car? I just took off the oil pump.
Also had a friend who ran a bronze gear and lost all the teeth after a year of street driving put in a melonized gear. No problems since.

On another thread you mentioned the older Crane roller I picked up recently came from the era when they were a little nicer to intermediate shaft gears.
At the time, it went in one ear and out the other. I just checked my picture, and I get it now.

Never gave the cam gear a second thought before. Thanks.

From what I can see in the pics, Brad's gear doesn't look horribly bad.

I was told at one time that crane use to supply roller cores to other companies and you could tell by the gold color between the lobes that they were the good ones compared to the ones that are black.

I really don’t know for sure but I’m sure Fast and others have forgotten more than I ever knew and can answer that question?

I would not worry..it needs some street miles and then have a look at it..I have a drawer with 20 or more unhappy oil pump drives.
I'll get my son to bring in a bunch,I'll snap some pictures and post them....some of them you can shave with..

I'll bet money that the gear you have is NOT a Milidon or one of the early Mopar brand that had the roll pins installed in them instead of the solid retaining pin yours has
The one I'm having trouble with is a early Mopar brand and it has the bright colored roll pin with the ends mashed, the two Milidons I'm using have a black coated colored roll pin in them

I've run the same bronze gear I bought used. 0w30 JR1 oil. High volume pump. No issues at 500 passes.
Doug

From the factory service manual:

I bought the tool to remove and reinstall the bushing. One thing most people overlook is to fill the bushing opening with redline synthetic gear oil and squeeze it between your finger and thumb until it oozes out through the pours of the sintered brass. Then press it in and burnish it with the tool.

Another idea is to use the treated steel gear on a new cam. If you can't do that, have the gear cryogenically treated .and coat it with synthetic disc brake grease.

That bushing tool makes me smile every time I have used it.

Currently looking into sources for both the extraction & installation tools... Looks like about $200 +/-, from what I've seen so far.

All I can tell you is what I've shown is an MP part purchased a few years ago from Hughes; I don't know when "early" means in this case.

The Milodon I bought is still in its original package, and I haven't bothered to look any further for the 440 Source part that is "somewhere" in my parts boxes.

Dig around a bit Brad because I was looking about a year ago for a friend and I found them for about a hundred bucks.

I use a flat washer that I ground down to barely fit the bottom OD of the bushing to drive it out from the oil pump side of the block using a Ford F.E. motor pushrod to drive the old one out, it barely fits into the hole in the block
I then use a stock oil pump drive gear to install the new bushings by sliding them onto the shaft and then drive it in the block
No problems yet with these methods

I changed mine on my small block without pulling the pan. I have a harbor freight bearing puller kit and it worked perfect. My Dad has the install tool so I was able to use that.

$100 from Hughes

$99.00 at Jegs , just over 100 from Summit . Proform brand tool 66488


Tex

I should have been more clear and said it was looking like about $200 (give or take) for both tools combined.

The HF puller approach looks like a good idea. I found a video on YouTube last night showing someone pulling a bushing w/ a small OTC-brand puller, so I kinda had that idea in mind already. Nice to see that something I can buy 10 minutes from my house will work.

I think the installation tool is a better approach than driving in the bushing with an intermediate shaft alone. Seems like not using the tool to stabilize the driver in the distributor opening is more likely to result in the bushing not going in straight, which means the shaft won't be truly parallel to the bushing's inner surface, thus wearing it out faster.

You can pound the bushing in with an axe and it'll still go in in straight. It's getting it to seat in the bore so it doesn't spin after use that requires the special tool.