The Rear u-joint clamps on my Dana 60 from Strange are getting old and rusty on my racecar and I was thinking about replacing them . Has anyone used any of the u-joint Girdles from Jeg's or Summit?
Thanks mIke

if youre referring to the billet aluminium units, i tried them on my 8 3/4, wasn't a great success, managed to break one somehow. bought the steel U bolts after that.

IMO, the best yokes are billet or machined steel versions with u-bolts. OEM type yokes can eventually spread over time regardless of "girdles" or other band-aids. I also use Spicer solid u-joints.

There are some manufacturers who also make them for other Mopar joints - 7260, 1350, etc. Shop around for better price. At work and don't have info handy.

7290 yoke

Yeah they work great if you never use them ..........

Small bolts are the weak link.

I also broke a set running 10.90's at 3500 lbs.

I agree with this... In the 4x4 world, u-bolts are a much better way to hold your u-joint to the yoke...

Ive had no issues with the HD U bolt looking units on a S60 from Dr Diff running a heavy car going 9.40-s with a manual trans.

This is a Dana I purchased directly from Strange years ago. It has the SOLID 1350 u-joints. I just had both front and rear 1350's replaced since they are about 15 years old with almost 1000 or so flawless passes. I think you talked me out of using the Girdle type .
Where can I get a suitable replacement for the U bolt type I have other than calling Strange?
Thanks mIke

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moroso-85080-Heavy-Duty-U-Joint-Straps-Dana-60/312019239015?epid=28017011380&hash=item48a5cbc067:m:m0cotSs9kpBcNn6JghLmiRQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moroso-85080-Heavy-Duty-U-Joint-Straps-Dana-60/312019239015?


Dr Diff dont list them separate but might sell them? They might be a little different then the Moroso units.

https://www.doctordiff.com/1350-u-bolt-pinion-yoke-package.html

$142.00
PN : U1598
Dana 60 yoke / 1350 / Strange chrome moly

This Strange part looks good. Summit has them too.

A&A Transmission has billet units, like I originally mentioned, but are more expensive.

A&A billet 1350 yoke.

Thanks for the help. I just ordered the Moroso part.
Mike

If the car is set up right it doesn’t take much to hold the rear u-joint in place. I’m sure an Engineer or someone smarter than I am could word it better but the saddle holds the u-joins in place and does most of the work. My Duster goes 1.25 in the 60 foot and I have the cheap factory straps and 5/16 bolts on my stock Dana yoke.

If the yoke itself spread over time, it won't matter what kind of straps or bolts are used. It may not happen often, but eventually can. It did to me after many years of running a 3,540+ lb car. Like the argument against 8 3/4" rears in general, weight has a lot to do with it. If there's ever a hint of side-to-side movement of the u-joint in the yoke saddle as installed, it's junk. But I also tend to prefer parts with an extra safety margin.

As already pointed out make sure your rear U joint you are using has to be shoved in hard, not slide in easily, and stay in the pinion yoke with no slop or looseness.
The straps are not meant to take any side load, they are meant to stop forward movement only.

This.

Anything more than a factory strap is just a fancy part looking for a problem that doesn't exist, IMO.

My experience with the girdles is all bad.
Ill fitting hunks of material that would have been better served being turned into beer cans.
This was in a 9 " , but they ( Moroso ) would not fit with out massaging.
I was working at a machine shop at the time , so I figured I would modify their design and eliminate the problems I encountered.
I came up with smaller hunks of crap is all.
Like has been stated above , the strap or U bolt is plenty.

No sideways movement guy's. Just replaced the 1350's so I thought I would replace the u bolt as well.
Thanks Mike

When in doubt on race parts change them parts out!
Good call on PMing the U joint but please don't try using a girdle of any type, the stock U bolts are plenty strong to hold the cups firmly into the yoke.

I thought I would try the good aluminum ones. Made about a 80 ft pass and got towed to the pits after launching the Challenger. Should of just left the original strap type on that never ever failed for years and years. Listen the all the guys and pick what they have had success with. It is a pain to try to get those bolts out of the yoke after being sheared off and next to impossible at the track without a lot of help. Also some one said about using the solid U joint that is a good choice.

If you look at the design closely you will see that the U-joint is
installed greater that than 50% which puts ALL of the load in
the yoke.. all the bolts do is to keep the caps snug and dont really
take any load...some if the fancy girdles tend to bind against the
yoke specially if the pinion angle is to much.. this causes the bolts
to stress and break.. just make sure the yoke hasnt spread.. is
it has.. get a new yoke