If you have no issue with hood clearance, and your not running Methanol, is it better to go water injection or one of those inter coolers sandwiched in for max boost?

Run good fuel is the best option. Q16 will be best

The best bet is to run a bigger blower, 14:71 instead of a 10;71 , and turn it slower to make the same boost pressures with less intake air temps
I've made 924 HP on CA pump swill with a 10:71 with two Carb Shop 1050 Dominator carbs at 7300 RPM with 33 degrees total timing with 7.0 lbs. boost at 130F M.I.T., we swap the pulleys and put in 114 octane race gas and lowered the timing to 25 degrees total and that motor made 1027 HP at 6500 RPM with 12.0 lbs. boost and then went into detonation with 190F manifold inlet temps.
Intercooling and or water/meth. injection should help at the higher boost pressure, maybe

Water/meth injection would be my choice between those options. An intercooler on a roots, in a car, is more trouble and weight than just switching fuel when you want to race. They work great on a boat where there are millions of gallons of cold water on hand, at all times lol.

Personally, E85 is kinda like a cure all ills for the street, as least from where I sit. Great cooling effect, reasonable volume to manage, available, and no where near the hassle of methanol.

Was this a hemi? All aluminum? That's pretty high compression for 91 octane even with only 7 psi.

I have used both and I plumbed the a/w into the radiator but never got to use it like that yet.I trust the a/w more than the meth inj but I only had a basic kit by Snow.

To be clear I used the a/w with a 3 gal fuel cell with a wp136 pump for over 10yrs.I was making a 12 gal cell with a rule 2k pump while I was going to test the in line to radiator system.

This is my blown car. 572 aluminum hemi. 12:1 static, on E85 carbs 14/71 10 psi boost. No intercooler, or water injection, just E85.

https://youtu.be/Rosv2aAKhtk

It was a Hemiroid motor, early 4.190 rough bore Mopar Mega iron block with Stage V aluminum street heads. I had it bored to 4.250 due to thin(less than .300 left in the cylinders after boring) cylinder walls and added a 4.375 stroke crankshaft.

My turbo car has a big FMIC + Snow methanol/water, but not tried high (30 psi) boost yet.
The "sandwiched" intercooler (between the GMC base and manifold inlet) sounds good, but except for regulating the water temperature (and this is limited to radiator, ice chest) and flow (pump speed and pressure if a separate source) there isn't any adjustment built in. Whatever and wherever it flows is what it's going to be, and the core plates etc. restriction obstruction varies with their cooling value: large plates = reduced flow = lower charge temperature. More thickness (add another one?) is the only way to get the charge down more.

Again: no modern supercharger with helixed rotors (Eaton, BDS, etc.) discharges at the same flow rate all along the length of the discharge port, the flow is heavily biased toward the forward end of the window. Does the IC account for this? The flow at the back end of the rotors doesn't even go directly to the manifold, but is re-cycled up into the rotors again. Not as much help as it appears.

Uhh we need more details on this thing lol.

Leaves hard!!

Casey FJ

I wouldn’t put a water/air intercooler on anything other than a boat. A drag strip only car may be an exception with a centrifugal blower or turbos. A roots blower outlet just doesn’t have the square area for effective cooling and airflow. On a car, it will be inconsistent with temps until it is finally heat soaked. Once it’s heat soaked it’s useless and detrimental to power. Tuning for atmospheric conditions is bad enough without throwing in an inconsistent charge temp. Much better off using an alc based fuel to keep charge temps in check.
I don’t recall ever seeing a truly fast roots/ intercooler combo. Lots of very fast roots/ alc combos though.

The opening in the I/C is equal to 25"sq or the same as a Victor single plane for example.A friend of mine Ron Shearer makes a double wide core I/C for LS motors but he would not make a 1 off for a roots so I was getting to a better 1 as I made a topic on it 2 yrs ago.The $ to get all this to work is a lot be it water inj or I/C.

I built this intake for a friend. The water core is 8x16x3. It uses an 8 gallon liquid cell with only 3/4” lines. He uses a mix of water/ ice at the track. 12 lbs of boost in a single pass will melt almost all of the ice. Intake temps start at 60 degrees in the burnout, and are around 100 at the return road.
That core has a square air flow area of 128 inches. There is no difference in pressure above or below.
Turbos make much less heat than a roots. Imagine how the small roots core would need to absorb a great deal more heat with a much smaller exchanger.

Thanks for the info,Your cores are the biggest that can be put under a roots that I know of and my single core is 4.5" x 13" x 3" just fyi.The core straighten the air flow into the intake and cut down on rear bias.

Talk about filling up the engine compartment
Good results also

Does backpressure effect intake air temp?? When I tried to up my boost from 6# to 10# the headers were not happy through mufflers and tail pipe.
Installed dumpers so I can get up to 10/12 lbs....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qv0Mmqwz0lw

Any thing you can do to improve air flow, in or out, should improve performance, especially with a huffer!

Look for reversion in the intake but this can also be tuneup related.

Dragula did you want to talk about the w/meth injection?Would you make a larger intercooler if you could?