Curious to see what the Mopar community is using to perform a simple engine block deck height check. Outside of taking a block to an engine shop, what measuring device are you using to check engine deck heights?

You can use an ordinary outside micrometer with a ball attachment on the end. Imports can be bought cheap or on ebay. It won't get everywhere you want but it will give you an idea.

BHJ used to sell a dial caliper with a radiused attachment on the fixed jaw that worked but they were pricy.

This

http://www.bhjproducts.com/bhj_content/products/measinst/dhc1.php
if you have a 12" caliper you can buy or make the radius adapter

Or this

https://www.summitracing.com/search?Sort...ASAAEgKeTfD_BwE
any machinist could make one of these pretty quick.

I use a old Craftsman brand depth micrometer and rock the piston around while checking the deck height on both sides(cam side and then the motor mount side) of the pistons and the average the two measurements, all 8 of them
My micrometer base isn't wide enough to reach across most BB bores so I have to measure the edges up to around 3.75 bore size so the base has a decent seat to slide on
I also have and have used a magnetic base dial indicator bridge holder that will work on the bigger bores up to around 5.000 inch
When I use it I will slide it so it is over the wrist pins as close the cylinder bore sides and rock the pistons again from the front side end then slide the bridge back to the flywheel side of each cylinder and measure again when rocking and then average the two to get the deck height of all 8

As do I, but don't know if the OP is asking how to determine a block's deck height from the crank centerline, or getting an accurate measurement of how far below (or above) the deck the pistons are at TDC.

Depends how accurate of a measurement you want. If you want a good measurement you need a large outside micrometer. If you don't have one of those you can use a machinist scale and read it within 0.010 of an inch depending on how good your eyes are.

Don;t think the OP knows either

Certainly the question could be more clear

I was just inquiring to see if there was a quick way to obtain measurements of the block deck height without having to install the lower rotating assembly and checking each piston one at a time.

Trying to eliminate the time spent to install lower end just to find out the block needs to be decked and one must start disassembly.

12" dial caliper from main bearing bore to deck, then add 1/2 the bearing bore diameter.

There are different ways to do it but they all take time and tools. The most accurate way for a home shop to do it is to install the crank and the use one piston and rod assembly that you install in the four corners. That allows you to measure the deck at all four corners with the same rod and piston. That should be good enough to tell you where you are at.

But, the deck almost always needs to be cut or touched up on a Mopar so you might just be duplicating work with what the machine shop is going to do.

Got any feel for the accuracy of that approach? It's obviously correct mathematically, but how about getting consistent & usable measurements?

Not looking to bash at all; I have a machined block that already needed some work redone by a different shop. One of questions I have is the deck height, especially if I need to order new pistons for the build.

A 12" dial caliper would get you close but not precise due to the curve on the main bearing housing. But it should be within 0.005 of the actual number if you're careful. The number you get will be bigger than the real number.

A dial caliper is fine for determining if a block has already been decked. But for something more precise, installing the entire rotating/reciprocating assembly and checking every piston not only gives you a figure for the deck height but insight into how uniform the final rod/piston length is for each cylinder. I mean in the end, what are you really trying to accomplish, a certain deck height (crank centerline to block face) or a desired piston height (piston crown to block face)?

I'm assuming you want piston to deck distance for (A) a SCR number and (B) possibly achieving quench (.040). As said I would FIRST mockup the short block & measure all of em (as said the deck bridge/micrometer works OK) or at least the corners which will tell you how much to mill the block & you can potentially swap rods around if that will get em all more even or alter the rod C to C lengths slightly when you have them rebuilt & that is much more critical IF you are desireing quench as opposed to just getting a reasonable SCR number, then dissassemble it all for final balancing. Alot of work but when the long block is right it is right & with the right cam/intake/carb/converter & ign tuning & some spot on tuning you will have the BEST combo that YOU are capable of producing.

Like Andy said. You want to use the outer edge of the caliper that is narrowed down and then find the minimum reading so you know your on the bearing bore part that is closest to the cylinder / square to the deck. That is the hardest part. I have a micrometer and dial bore gauge that I can use to measure the bearing bore, but usually I just look up the bearing outside diameter spec.
I just use the measurement to check if the block has been cut and of the four corners are the same height.
If I want the block decked for a specific piston to deck clearance, I just tell the machine shop and let then set it up.