Re: Opinions on torsion bars
[Re: wyldebill]
#2621032
02/13/19 11:23 PM
02/13/19 11:23 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491 Lethbridge, AB, Canada
dangina
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
|
pst bars are the cheapest (price wise) firmfeel does custom rates but cost more, I have firm feel and they have been great, but I have read good reviews on pst bars if your looking at 1.03. Sway bars cheapest I found is https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/sway-bars-hellwig/dodge/64-72-mopar-b-bodybest part is if you wait till a holiday - they add the holiday price ontop of the sales price, I think I got both front/rear for under$300 hollow front, solid rear, both adjustable
|
|
|
Re: Opinions on torsion bars
[Re: wyldebill]
#2621033
02/13/19 11:24 PM
02/13/19 11:24 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695 Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
|
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
|
If the car is used as wagon, the 1.03 are a good start, you will need to address rear leafs to maintain any kind of balance, which on a wagon must be kinda tough, empty to fully loaded.. Personally I would step up at least a bar size, stay away from KYB's period, nobody has ever said after years here on moparts they went too large, and most wonder, even with the noticeable improvement of whatever larger TB they picked, if they went big enough.
Be sure and followup you results, BTW.
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
|
|
|
Re: Opinions on torsion bars
[Re: wyldebill]
#2621150
02/14/19 05:03 AM
02/14/19 05:03 AM
|
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,161 Los Angeles, CA
JF_Moparts
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,161
Los Angeles, CA
|
Hi folks. I'm heading into uncharted waters for me. I'm building a 68 b body wagon, and in want it to handle well. Have good road manners and such. Whose torsion bars and size do you like. I was looking at 1.03 diameter bars, and a sway bar. Recommendations? Horror stories? Thanks for the input. What engine are you running? The weight of the motor is a variable that you want to consider. I have a small block with aluminum heads and intake on a 71 Satellite and I run 1.03 torsion bars on that. 1.03 at 41" long is about 205/lbs/inch spring rate. If you have a big block you might want something a little stronger.
|
|
|
Re: Opinions on torsion bars
[Re: wyldebill]
#2621258
02/14/19 02:00 PM
02/14/19 02:00 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 667 Los Osos, Ca
CKessel
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 667
Los Osos, Ca
|
If you have access to some scales, weigh the car. Get the total, front, back and 4 corners. Pick from there.
Carl Kessel
|
|
|
Re: Opinions on torsion bars
[Re: CKessel]
#2621284
02/14/19 02:37 PM
02/14/19 02:37 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,161 Los Angeles, CA
JF_Moparts
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,161
Los Angeles, CA
|
If you have access to some scales, weigh the car. Get the total, front, back and 4 corners. Pick from there. Yep, that's even better.
|
|
|
Re: Opinions on torsion bars
[Re: wyldebill]
#2621369
02/14/19 05:54 PM
02/14/19 05:54 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,442 NW Chicago suburban area
Mopar Mitch
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,442
NW Chicago suburban area
|
WyldeBill -- increasing the size of your TBs over the factory size will make noticable differences, but you do need to make it a "package"... step up the rear leafs a little more in stiffness, add better shocks f/r (you'd appreciate the 2x double adjustables that are available now... you can fine-tune the ride with them).
Increasing the front sway bar size will also be noticable, but be certain that you add a rear sway bar, otherwise you'll just be introducing more front end plow (understeer).
As I've said so many times in previous posts, don't be afraid of bigger TBs. After you make one increase, you'll only wonder why you didn't go a little bigger, and bigger again, etc. 1.03? OK... but consider about 1.1-1.12 as a good street/hwy TB size. Bigger front TBs especially reduce front end dive (from hard breaking), as well as front end lift during accelerating and cornering.
Although I settled at 1.24" ( the largest that will physically fit through the hex) for my competition SCCA Autocross Challenger, its still fine for the street/hwy. In comparison, the SCCA T/A and AAR pro cars run ~1.40+ diameter TBs.
Changing the upper control arms with those that offer more positive CASTER (with a little negative Camber), and/or simply swapping to the Moog offset UCA bushings to achieve that goal, will also be part of the "package" that you'll want to do.
Your choice of tires and sizes will make a difference. Shorter sidewalls will progressively give you a harsher ride (less road bump absorption), so be careful what you choose. IF you stay with 15", you'll still get a good ride (example: 245-60 or 255-60 fronts, and 275-60 rear). but as soon as you jump to a 50-45-40-35-30 profile sidewall, the ride harshness steadily increases. Playing with tire PSI is something you can do for ride quality.
Good luck and MoPower to ya!
Last edited by Mopar Mitch; 02/14/19 05:56 PM.
Mopar Mitch
"Road racers and autocrossers go in deeper and come out harder!"... and rain never stops us from having fun with our cars... in fact, it makes us better drivers!
Check out MOPAR ACTION MAGAZINE, August 2006 issue for feature article and specs on my autocross T/A!
|
|
|
Re: Opinions on torsion bars
[Re: wyldebill]
#2622166
02/16/19 03:40 PM
02/16/19 03:40 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,453 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,453
So Cal
|
I’d go 1” Tbars. Compromise between handling and ride. And inexpensive.
Then big front and a rear bar (rear weight of wagon)
*** I’m suggesting this because of the intended use of the OP’s wagon. It seems like he is looking for significant improved street handing. And wants to drive and enjoy the car on long trips like Hot Rod Tour.
I’m not thinking he’s intending to autocross or roadrace this wagon. ???
I’ve run .99” and 1.14”.
I’ve driven LA to Iowa (1800 miles) round trip every summer for 4 years. It was a stiff ride but manageable. Like Mitch said tire side-wall effect ride too. I could tell the difference between running 225/50/15 and 235/60/15.
I would choose .99” over 1.14” And go with rubber:!lower control arm bushings and offset upper control arm bushings. And definitely run rubber rear leaf bushings. The rear cargo area of a wagon is a sound box. Rubber will isolate the drones, moans, and creaks.
Last edited by autoxcuda; 02/16/19 10:32 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Opinions on torsion bars
[Re: wyldebill]
#2622909
02/18/19 02:25 PM
02/18/19 02:25 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,404 Michigan
MarkZ
Worthy
|
Worthy
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,404
Michigan
|
This thing was someone's old hot rod. It has super stock springs,that will be removed for something more inline with a road car. It has a factory sway bar and the stock drums are going in the scrap pile. Its going to be powered by a mild iron headed bb with a 727/gv. I haven't nailed down a wheel tire combo yet. I'm guessing 17/18's. This will be a road car that I can go to the drive in or power tour. I'll cast another vote for large torsion bars. I went with a 1.12" equivalent on my Fifth Avenue and loved it - especially coupled with a matching set of factory front and rear sway bars. What I would highly recommend staying away from are tires with reduced sidewall. I drove my car for a year in the above configuration with 15" tires and it was great. I went 18" the following year and while the handling improved greatly once again, the ride quality went to complete crap. I'm now bending rims on Michigan pot holes. For a cruiser go big in T and sway bars while keeping the sidewalls for comfort. This will control the diving characteristics and keep the car planted without rattling your teeth out. Add a Borgeson power steering box and pump to ice the cake.
Last edited by MarkM; 02/18/19 04:29 PM.
1987 Fifth Avenue - 512/518/D60
|
|
|
|
|