Re: Magnum conversion info and questions.....
[Re: Wedgeman]
#261395
03/24/09 01:20 AM
03/24/09 01:20 AM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,314 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
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OP
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Looking for a way out of Middl...
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Something else to do if your running a keg type magnum intake. They often have a vaccume and oil leak in the plenum really bad. If you look inside and see oil puddling or heavy oil staining you probably have the problem. The bottom of the intake has a stamped steel cover that often is warped or not well made. Many people replace the gasket and silicone the crap out of it. I decided to replace mine with a 1/4" Aluminum plate. Hughes performance makes them for about $80 but being the cheap person I am I decided to make my own. I bought a slab of 1/4" aluminum plate from a local metal company for about $30 and trimmed it with a jig saw. It took about 30 to 45 minutes to trim it and drill the holes. After I trimmed it I placed the old plate on the aluminum one I made. Marked and drilled the holes. I reassembled it and it should be good forever. There is a manifold mod you can do to get better performance that somebody started on mine. They did a craptastic job if you ask me. It involves removing the center divider, shortening and radiusing the runners inside the intake to provide better flow. The previous owners of my engine just butchered it and left rough edges, and uneven runners that weren't smoothed out. There was a good discussion on the mods here. but many of the pics are gone bye bye.Here are some pics of mine. I didn't get pics of the finished mods before I bolted it up but it isn't hard. MAKE SURE YOU MARK THE DISTRIBUTOR BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT. I marked the block in relation to the distibutor and the index of the rotor. They are not as simple as just dropping it back in if you didn't mark it. The EFI system is timed off of the distributor and the Ignition timing is timed off of the crank sensor so don't try to adjust the ignition timing by rotating the distributor. This is a picture of the leaky, butchered manifold I had. That oily plate in the background is the cover. You are not looking at the bottom of the plate that is the top that was inside the intake. See how bad the oil leak was. The side in the lifter valley was almost cleaner LOL. Here is the aluminum plate I installed.
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Re: Magnum conversion info and questions.....
[Re: Andrewh]
#261396
03/24/09 08:59 AM
03/24/09 08:59 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,123 Grand Haven, MI
patrick
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I Live Here
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Posts: 16,123
Grand Haven, MI
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Quote:
sorry did not know about the regulator for the 94 motor. Again I was researching the 98 and up stuff. the 98 and up has a built in regulator at the pump back at the tank. So eliminating that required I get a different regulator.
The early truck exhaust is supposed to be quite good. 2.5 inch as I recall vs the 2.25 I currently have. However talking to an engine guy he said that bigger is not always better unless you are going full blown racing. In the cruiser department going much bigger than 2.25 causes a lot of low end torque loss.
Plus for me there are not a lot of header choices so it was natural to go with the truck exhaust.
I wanted to go with the late 60's unsilenced air cleaner with the 360 magnum pie pan. But the air cleaners were well over 200 bucks. So I settled on the dual snorkle one, and will pick up the magnum pie pan when I can.
FWIW
94-97 rams have 2" pipe off the manifolds into a dual inlet cat, and 2.5" out of the cat, out to a muffler and I think a 2 or 2.25" tail. the '98-up have a different exhaust with a 2.5-3" or so tailpipe (it's actually the same setup used in the '96 indy pace truck), and the 318 gained 10HP, the 360 gained 15HP from the exhaust change for 98-01...
1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD 1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!*** 2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T 2017 Grand Cherokee Overland 2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
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Re: Magnum conversion info and questions.....
[Re: IMGTX]
#261398
03/24/09 10:50 AM
03/24/09 10:50 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,123 Grand Haven, MI
patrick
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,123
Grand Haven, MI
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IMGTX,
did you have any problems returning the summit shorty headers after trying them and not fitting? debating if I want to pick up the stainless eddie headers to see if they'll fit since they are routed a little differently and have the collector in a different spot.
Last edited by patrick; 03/24/09 10:53 AM.
1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD 1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!*** 2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T 2017 Grand Cherokee Overland 2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
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Re: Magnum conversion info and questions.....
[Re: patrick]
#261399
03/24/09 01:31 PM
03/24/09 01:31 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,314 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,314
Looking for a way out of Middl...
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Quote:
IMGTX,
did you have any problems returning the summit shorty headers after trying them and not fitting? debating if I want to pick up the stainless eddie headers to see if they'll fit since they are routed a little differently and have the collector in a different spot.
No problem at all. I filled out the return form and put it in the box I returned it in. I told them on the form to send me the small block E body headers instead. They even credited my card the difference the same day they shipped the headers.
I can say that Summit really took great care of me.
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Re: Magnum conversion info and questions.....
[Re: Wedgeman]
#261402
03/25/09 05:47 PM
03/25/09 05:47 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,761
Andrewh
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,761
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Quote:
Hey Andrew !
I double checked the story on fuel regulators...
THe 5.9l have the regulator built in the pump, only the 3.9 and 5.2l have an external regulator between the throttle body and the distr.
After all.....you were right !!
May be we could use that regulator with a universal pump ?
Daniel
Didn't know any had an external reg. I gave up on that after trying to use a mustang one, and just bought the aeromotive regulator. A bit more expensive, but I figured it was worth it vs trying to hack something together.
My only concern with the 3.9 and 5.2 regulator would be flow. Why would they make it different would be my next question. They don't do it for the fun of it. So they must have needed the in tank reg and pump for a reason on the 5.9.
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Re: Magnum conversion info and questions.....
[Re: Wedgeman]
#261406
03/30/09 05:57 PM
03/30/09 05:57 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,314 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,314
Looking for a way out of Middl...
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Sorry I haven't posted recently. I tried several things. I took Andrews lead and tried a factory Air Cleaner. The original 70 dual snorkel will not clear the A/C but the later model dual snorkels that have the dented area at the front will. I still want to use the air box but at least I have a plan B now. I am pretty sure that Andrew is correct and the 94 Fuel pump cartridge will not fit but I am going to try. It is about the same height as the tank but I haven't cut the tank yet to mock up the installation. I will see tomorrow when I cut my spare tank. If I can't get it to clear I am going to use the hole to try and fab up an in tank pump system. I will keep you posted.
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Re: Magnum conversion info and questions.....
[Re: Wedgeman]
#261408
04/06/09 04:08 AM
04/06/09 04:08 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 746 Missouri
NFURY8
super street
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super street
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 746
Missouri
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Howdy! I am just finishing a 94 5.2 Magnum swap into a 70 W200 PowerWagon, with a 93 46RH. I have been down the same road and many of the same thoughts that are mentioned here. Before 94 there was a external regulator on the fuel rail, in 94 the switched to the in tank regulator. I really liked the in tank idea. I kicked it around a dozen different ways, but never could come up with a reasonable solution. I ended up using the Auromotive regulator and Summit inline pump, which I believe is identical to the MSD. They are both mounted on the frame rail, and the return runs to a tee in the line, at the back of the frame. So no return to the tank. I had to turn the regulator up to about 48 psi to make everything happy. The pump is a bit noisy. You can use a 96+ (OBDII) barrel intake and manifolds on the 92-95 (OBDI) engines and ditch the EGR and canister. The PCM will record a code if you check them, but it will not turn on the light. I am using a 98 intake and the Pacesetter headers, with the EGR bung welded up. The OBDII barrels don't have the EGR ports, or you can plug them. I highly recommend you use the PDC (power distribution). It will make life a lot easier! You need most of the relays anyway. You can then also re purpose the ones you don't. I reused the 2 ABS for my headlights. It also makes dealing with the alternator much easier. It does the MAD electrical mod for you basically. The EFI harness is pretty self contained, it all connects to 3 main plugs (assuming Ram donor), those 3 plugs are on the PDC also. The wiring was a bit intimidating at first, but the 94 Service Manual was a real life saver! I knew I would never remember all the changes I made, so I began documenting them and creating my own, new wiring diagram. It isn't quite done, but here is the current state. http://cbodydrydock.com/misc_images/Truck_Wiring.pdfThe engineers were geniuses in my opinion! It was like they engineered the whole drive train to be easily swapped into older vehicles. It only took 4 wires between the EFI harness and the bulkhead to start the motor! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BevgW7RRx30There was a lot of spaghetti, as I rerouted the harness to mount the PCM on the fender, near the core support, instead of the firewall. The main harness also runs across the front of the engine now, instead of the rear. I am also using the 94 cruise control. The cruise control buttons unbolt out of the steering wheel in a nice, neat little 4 button pod, perfect mounting under the dash. The brake light switch is a little different, specially if using cruise. It has 2 circuits, 3 if cruise. 1 is normally open for the lights. 2 are normally closed, one for the PCM and one for cruise. Rather than jerry rig the 94 switch, I used the stock switch and 3 relays mounted just above it. My wiring diagram shows them. Only down side is I can here them click sometimes when braking. Currently I am using the big Ram air cleaner box, only because it is self contained. But I am working on a way to use the smaller Dakota/Durango air hat and a TRUE cold air system. I am still working out a couple minor bugs, only 22 miles on it so far! Just got the exhaust installed Friday. The Overdrive isn't kicking in, but I think that is related to the VSS error code I am getting. I am using the 2 wire VSS with the cable pass through from an 89, the 94 Ram used the 3 wire. Anyone got a fix for this? I used PCM# 7 and #47, The 8 volt line and the VSS line, and omitted the sensor return ground. If anyone wants to kill some time, there is a 17 page thread on Sweptline.org documenting my adventure with this truck. http://www.sweptline.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=14030&start=0Happy to contribute any lessons and insights from my experience if I can!! -Scott
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