First step is to pull the engine. This engine is going to go into my Duster and I'm going to build a 426W with a 4.25 stroke to drop back into the Coronet.

I have a list of updates to perform to the car while the engine is out. The list might be more than I can accomplish this winter so I'll just work on stuff until I run out of time and then call it good.

That’s the smallest oil filter I’ve ever seen on a BBM.

Are you going to keep the Doug Nash in the Coronet?

Staying true to the 65 model year and going with a 426w. The purist in you

Looking forward to your updates.

I'm really looking forward to the updates and cool stuff you do to it.

Not sure why exactly, but it seems like it's important right now to drive some content. Maybe to overcome some of the "slowness" here. Then again, this format ain't for everybody.

Other than that, looks like the life of a development vehicle

I'm keeping it for now. I like the 5 speeds but I don't like how the Doug Nash shifts. I need to find a Doug Nash expert someday and explore my options. If I can't ever get it to shift correctly then I might change over to something else. It isn't anything I need to solve during this tear down though.

Yeah I've been toying with the idea of putting a 426W back in the '65 for a long time. It is kind of a stupid idea in terms of making power since the 426 has smaller bores than a 440 block but I guess I just like the idea of a 426W engine in an original 426W car.

I have a SCAT superlight 4.250 crank and Molnar 7.100 long rods so it will end up being a 496 inch engine. Pump gas, hyd roller cam, TF 240 heads, Sniper fuel injection, etc.

I was planning to use the Schumacher tri-y headers but neither side fits perfectly. The passenger side hits the scattershield and the driver side hits the clutch linkage. I can modify the headers to work but I might try the TTI shorty headers to see if they work.

I've used the small 409 filter on my engines for a long time. I learned that trick years ago from a local racer. The small filter takes up less space, is easier to install and primes faster.

That is such a cool car. I'm glad you are keeping the stick. Out of curiosity what do you not like about how it shifts? Is it a high rpm or regular street driving issue?

Also, if you have a chance can you post a few picture of the tunnel and trans cross member. I'm curious how much room you had to make compared to my gf5r. I'd be interested to see if you like my Long H-pattern over the shifter you are using. They are same-same from the DN for the GF.

Lastly, I see that you have three vent holes in the block saver. I like that idea. Do you also have a hole or slot in the bottom for checking the clutch air gap?

Thanks for sharing Andy!

When my Richmond was still stock with syncronizers I was using a Mcleod Street-Twin and I HATED the way it shifted. I determined one of my problems was the clutch, to much rotating mass to clear for a clean disengagement of the input shaft.
Not sure if you are using that unit but I have seen it in some of your photos. The syncronizers in the street Nash box are the same as a Borg Warner Super T-10 and there are some improved parts out there. There are some road race versions of the syncros that offer improved power shifting. The type of fluid is also an issue when shifting becomes a chore and synthetic is a big no no . I use Passon's gear lube in all my re-builds and my own Richmond box. That Nash is extremely easy to rebuild just don't disassemble the shifter detents they are a pain to re-assemble.
Your firewall wiring looks like mine(very busy) I'm also working on that this winter.
Gus

I had a street twin but I sold it. What was in the car was an aluminum flywheel with a McLeod disc and Long type clutch. I am using Redline MTL fluid so that could be part of the issue.

I think it is a synchro problem. When I try to shift the shifter will move out of gear easily but it feels like it hits a wall before it goes into the next gear. The shifter hangs up for a half second and then it goes into gear. I cannot shift it quickly, it just hits the wall and then after a moment it goes into gear. So the synchro is probably not spinning up to speed. Changing the fluid would be an easy fix so I'll try that.

Yes, the wiring is a big mess. If it was a show car I'd worry about it but this is a R&D vehicle so I don't care too much. I'm constantly testing different parts on the car so stuff gets installed and then taken off and I just leave the extra wiring hanging there. Most people don't understand the whole R&D vehicle thing so they just assume I'm a messy guy who can't finish the project. Not the worst thing for people to think about me I guess.....

Hey Andy, I don't think you can even buy that pressure plate any longer. At least in automotive applications. They make some for pulling trucks or something. I still use that B&B/Long cover so I know their limits.

2400 pounds of base and that disc is a parts killer. I would suggest you contact Cale Aronson at Black Magic clutches and let him update that cover. You can talk to Cale or his wife Tinzy. She is on the ball about clutches.

Cale has made his own fingers for that cover and for relatively low money he can make your cover adjustable. You won't have as much adjustment as you would with a Long style cover (I think my cover goes from 330 pounds of base to 990 and I use some counterweight to get what I think I need) but you'll at least be able to tune on it.

Some clutch shops won't deal with that cover. Cale will. I'd at least give him a call and talk to him. I think that's just too much plate load for that disc.

That won't make it shift any better, but with a sintered iron disc and that cover tuned up for adjustability you'll certainly like driving it better.


As for shifting...as the RPM and the disc weight go up and get heavier, the clutching teeth on the gears are too fine and you just can't get the slider to slid over those clutching teeth.

What I have done for years is a simple slick shifting process. And if I'm driving it on the street, I grind every other tooth off the clutching teeth on the gear and then every other tooth on the slider. I also grind every other tooth off the syncro and then assemble the transmission just like a stocker with syncros and all of it.

That, I promise you will make shifting as easy as a hot knife through butter. And the syncros will still allow up and down shifting like a stocker and you won't have to hold the shift lever and keep it in gear on decel.

I've done that for years and it's never failed to work on 833's, top loaders, Muncies and I've done a couple of Nash boxes in the early 1990's. My current car is configured like that and my wife can drive. She don't have the gonads to power shift it, but she can drive it just fine.


That's the best info I have and I hope it helps.

Have you check the actual clearances between the clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel with the pedal depressed? If not you should have around .060 minimum for the stock Mopar synchro to shift good with the pedal adjusted just like you drive it
Been there, done that

See if Liberty works on the Nash. They are well known for manual trans improvements.

Yeah mine shifts lightning fast now

Gus

If they are face plated like that...IIRC...they won't stay in gear on decel. That's why I just slick shift them and the syncros and put them back together. They shift flawlessly and I don't have to hold it in gear.

I sent my 23 spline parts off to liberty a couple of years ago
and had them face plated
It shifts with absolutely no resistance and mine has never come out on decel
I'll never put one together without having one faceplated
A dream to drive and a ton of fun

Good to know. What about downshifting with face plates? I've thought about FP my junk if and when I tear up the sliders and/or gears. I also like down shift without RPM matching. Drove truck for years so I can do it. Just would rather not.

I drove mine on the street like that for about 5 years and it doesn't come out of gear. I got pretty good at down shifting it even with a Long V-gate. I have an H-pattern Hurst Comp Plus that I never got the chance to try as I installed a street HEMI box last time it was out.
The Faceplate puts any slick or Pro-shift 833 I have ever driven to shame. The dogs are finished on a slight angle to keep them engaged.

Gus

Just curious....... if you had the Richmond trans in the car already...... why did you go back to the 833?

I put the Doug Nash in the car 30 years ago (1988) and it still has it. I have no intention of putting a four speed in the car, but I might switch to a different transmission if I can't get the Doug Nash to shift properly.

The original four speed with the big long shifter is tucked away in the shop. I'll never use it but I don't think I'll sell it although there probably is some poor guy somewhere trying to restore a '65 Coronet who would love to have it.

Good luck with the new eng and the updates Andy ! Ron

Sorry..... my highjack got a bit off track.
I was referring to Gus, and it sounded like he had the Richmond in his car, but took it out.

When I first put the Faceplate trans in the car I was racing every other weekend and putting over 100 passes a year on the car and two years ago I didn't even make it to the track once.
I put some street miles on it now so last year I changed it out to a more driver friendly easy to shift cruiser box. The faceplate deal needs to be shifted fast or slow and I wanted to just drive it easy. So over the years I accumulated a very nice set of gears and syncros and put a box together that shifts like butter.

Sorry for the hi-jack Andy

If the fluid change doesn't fix your issue just call me and we can get you fixed up right.

Gus

Here are a couple pictures of my existing transmission mount. It is a home built part from back in the 80's when I did this conversion. I didn't have very good fab skills then so it is a solid mount. I'm redoing this crossmember now so I can use a real transmission mount and hopefully cut down on some of the vibration in the car.

I just got my new lower shock plates back from powder coating. These have all the tricks that I know of. Tie down loop, jack stand bracket, shock mounts built at the correct angle and location, etc.

One reason I pulled the engine was to replace my old brake line setup. 30 years ago when I first switched over to disc brakes there were not any off the shelf kits for brake lines so I had to build my own. What I came up with has worked for many years but it wasn't pretty. I just recently discovered that Inline Tube had a neat little distribution block for the early B body cars that looks stock but works with a late model Mopar master cylinder. So now I can rip out all of my old crappy brake line work and replace it with some new stuff that looks stock but works much better than anything the factory had in 1965.

Sounds good. I'm going to spend some time over the next month or so exploring different clutch options. I can easily change the fluid in the trans too. If that doesn't fix it then maybe I'll pull the transmission out next winter and have someone get inside of it.

C'mon that's not bad at all. A little cutting, a section of tubing and you can squeeze a turbo 400 mount in there. My setup is similar except I cut a section out for the poly turbo 400 mount. I did add a section of .083 5/8 tube to strengthen it.

If you make something super trick I'd buy one as it will surely be superior to my backyard junk. Thanks for sharing that Andy.

Today was dyno day for the new 426W based engine. I used a 4.25 stroke with 7.10 rods and Diamond pistons. Heads are Trick Flow 240 heads and Dwayne came up with a 239/245 hyd roller cam. She made 613 hp at 5800 rpm and 631 ft-lbs at 4800 rpm. Torque was 522 at 3000 rpm where we started the pull and was 529 ft-lbs at 6000 rpm where we stopped the pull. So wall to wall torque. These numbers are about 50 ft-lbs and 40 hp better then the 512 engine which I had in the car so the car is picking up power even though the cam is a bit smaller. I assume that is because the Trick Flow heads are better than the ported RPM heads which the 512 had but it could also be the different intake manifold or the EFI system.

We did all of the dyno tests with a Holley Sniper setup. The Sniper is great to use on the dyno since I can sit in the control room and adjust the ignition timing as well as the jetting. We just hold the engine at a certain rpm and then tweak the timing and the fuel until it is working best and then move to the next point. It really is amazing what just a few degrees of timing will do at part throttle. At 2500 rpm we were able to reduce exhaust temp by 500 degrees by adding some timing. I've had cars in the past that would melt stuff under the hood while driving down the freeway and now I think I know why. Those cars had MSD billet distributors on them which didn't have any vacuum advance. We saw a big difference in exhaust gas temp between 35 degrees and 40 degrees of timing on the dyno at cruise speed. I'm tempted now to install a couple of EGT probes into my headers just to watch this in the car. I've been tuning for fuel consumption and manifold pressure at cruise but now I'm thinking I might also need to keep an eye on EGT.

Thats why I run a vac advance, if its street driven it needs it . right now I have 24 initial, 34 total & an extra 10 on ported vac, it even makes the exhaust tone [drone] much better.

Great #'s y'all got, should be a fun car.

What Intake are you using?
Any porting to the heads or intake?

Asking because we are hoping for 600+ HP from the 440 stroked to 505"
440 source kit with light weight crank, 10:1 compression (27cc dish) for junk gas,
Trick Flow 240 with the solid roller springs and Ti retainers, checked, but nothing done to them.
Lunati 40230732LK solid roller cam, 243/249 @ 0.050", 0.617"/0.624" lift with the 1.6:1 rockers.
Planning to use an Edelbrock Victor intake and TTI headers.
EFI might be in the future, but just going to run an old Holley 770 Ultra-avenger for the street, or maybe the 1,000 cfm HP Holley if we dyno it?

I observed similar issues last year at the Gratiot cruise with the motor getting warm at speed. Also running an MSD billet distributor. 24 degrees initial, 34 total. I forget what spring is in it. Ended up having to pull the inspection covers over the control arms to get a little more airflow under the hood. Never an issue with cooler weather.

I've got the Holley Sniper distributor though waiting to go in. Need to finish the D60 install first.

The Hyperspark distributor will allow you to build a custom ignition curve that fits your engine. Once you do that you'll be surprised at how much better it runs. The engine builder I work with has been building racing engines for 30 years and he is still shocked when I start tuning the engine on the dyno with the laptop. He understands all of this stuff of course but sometimes the engine wants a timing curve that can't be built with a normal distributor. We sit there in the control room and use the laptop to change timing and then watch the vacuum level, fuel flow and exhaust temp. Sometimes you end up with a timing curve that isn't physically possible in a distributor.

On my Coronet, adding a bunch of timing at cruise speed dropped the fuel consumption by a bunch and the car ran smoother and cooler. No loss of power and no pinging since the extra timing drops off as soon as the manifold pressure increases. Very simple to do with a Sniper and you'll notice the benefits immediately.

The 240 heads are out of the box with the exception of a valve spring change. I went with the Comp conical springs for this engine. I'm using a Trick Flow intake manifold that was deep port matched by Hughes. If you don't have an intake yet then that is what I recommend. Just all Hughes and ask for the deep port matched version. They cost extra and take more time but I think it is the best bang for the buck.

My engine used 780 cfm of air to make 600 hp so that tells you roughly how big of a carb you need. The Holley Sniper is rated at 800 cfm and we had 98 kPa on the MAP during wide open throttle. So not much restriction.

Awesome numbers, Andy. The Coronet is going to fly and sounds like a very street friendly combination. On a side note, I wish that trick flow intake would fit under my hood.

Not trying to be a smart a$$ here, just trying to learn. Isn't this the same thing a vacuum advance distributor does? Or does Hyperspark distributor and/or Sniper do this with more finesse or control in some way? Thanks.

If you ever try to build a full custom timing curve in a distributor you'll know what a huge pain it is. You have to mess around with weights, slots, vacuum pods, and springs on a distributor machine. It can take hours to get it correct. With the Sniper software you just type the numbers you want into the table and you are finished. Some stuff such as high speed retard or start retard you can't do with a distributor. With the Sniper you just tell it what advance you want during cranking. If you want high speed retard you just change the numbers in the table.

Is that wheel HP? Very impressive either way, that's not a very big cam. What are the lift and LSA numbers? Thanks Andy, this is better than 90% of the articles in the car rags- yours being the top 10%.

Dyno power. It should make 500 to 525 at the rear tires. My last engine made 575 on the same dyno and 480 at the rear tires so this engine should step up about 40 hp.

Valve lift is 0.595 and 0.575. Cam is ground on 112 centers and installed at 108. It is a high dollar valve train with RAS rocker arms, Gaterman lifter, and Comp conical valve springs but in my experience you need to put quality parts in the valvetrain or else they don't work very well.

The cam is small but I told Dwayne that I wanted the car to drive nice and smooth just off idle. My last cam was 246/246 and it was just a hair too big for me. That cam pulled hard above 2500 rpm but the car was a little lumpy when driving down the street at 25 mph. If this cam gives me better driveability at low speeds and more power on the top end then that is a win win.

I'm working to get the new engine ready to go back into the car. I decided to try the Schumacher headers but they don't fit with a scattershield so I had to cut the collector off and do some fab work. I'm trying to decide what style of motor mount to use. I'm leaning towards using the C body/A body bracket that bolts to the front of the engine. I think that will be the easiest solution to fabricate in the car.

I was going to use a mini-starter but it sits pretty close to the Schumacher header so I decided to try a starter from RobbMc. The RobbMc starter is completely different and has a lot of room around it. I'll have to change my wiring setup but I guess I can do that. This is just how it goes with custom projects. You try different combinations of parts until you find something that works well enough. None of this stuff is ever perfect, but if you try enough different combinations you can eventually find something that fits and works. Kind of time consuming (and expensive) process though.

It's been a few years since I have worked with one, the one I saw had plastic gears in it. I wonder if Robb still uses those?

Those headers are like hitting the "easy" button, I like them.

The headers look easy but like most aftermarket parts they don't quite work as well as they could.They are a good starting point though.

what size are the primary's andy ?

I thought the whole deal w schumacher headers is you agree to sacrifice some power, but in exchange get a great fit. I see you've already made them work, but sucks you needed to cut and weld.

Doesn't TTI sell a header that will bolt on?

Schumacher headers are designed to work with an automatic transmission. They have to be modified to work with a four speed and they don't fit a Lakewood bellhousing at all. But they are close enough that I decided to give it a go. I tried some TTI 1 3/4 headers and they were a complete no go. I've tried other headers over the years that also didn't fit which is the reason I ran cast iron manifolds on the car for so long. I'm pretty sure that I can make these Tri-Y headers work this time around. It is just a fab job at this point and I know guys who can fab.

I read somewhere that TTI headers will fit w small modification to the bellhousing and small starter.

That could be true for some cars but not mine. The engine in my car has been moved back and down in order to get the Doug Nash to fit in the tunnel so nothing fits off the rack.

Ah, I was not aware of custom engine and trans install on your car. All this time I just thought you were hello bent on proving that exhaust manifolds can work

Nope, not on a crusade. Just taking lemons and making lemonade.

I have the new engine sitting in the correct location so now I need to build new motor mount brackets. The passenger side appears to be easy enough but the driver side will require some creativity.

Coming along very nicely.

Well it is spring time now and the Coronet is no where near to being finished so I suppose the title of this thread is wrong. I have been making some progress though. Got the headers built last week and the new transmission mount is welded up. The new master cylinder and brake lines are in and we might have figured out a solution to the e-brake issue I've been having. The big task now is to build new motor mounts for the K frame. Once that job is done then the car should start going back together.

I'm not sure if it's too late in your build to try this on the transmission or not. One trick is to rough up the cones on the gears so they get better traction in the synchro. Just use some 100 grit sandpaper by hand.

I used my phone to shoot a video when dialing in the bellhousing. This worked out great since I was able to play the video back frame by frame to see how to adjust the housing. These Lakewood housings are a long way off. I had to use 0.021 offset dowels and still couldn't get it perfect.

I've decided to wussify my car by adding power steering. Took the plunge and ordered up the new Borgenson PS box. My car is a factory manual steer car so I needed a PS steering shaft. Lucky for me, I had a PS column stashed in my spare parts area so now I'm in the process of pulling the two columns apart and rebuilding my old column with all new parts and the PS shaft. I've never rebuilt a steering column before so it is slow going. Had to find the vendors, order the parts, order some tools, etc.

Thanks but I know better than to take the transmission apart. If I took that transmission apart the car would turn into a barn find. I'd never get it back together and my kids would sell it for $100 in 30 years when I die.

Are you going to do one of the popular electric power steering pumps or stick with an engine driven pump?

I'm not brave enough to switch to electric steering just yet. My plan at the moment is to use a Corvette type of PS pump. I do not have it all figured out yet. I tried to make a Saginaw pump work but ran into clearance issues.

The Covette PS pump looks something like this.

I went with the smaller pump also.

Power steering is cool for a big/wide front tire, manual trans street application.
Where you're one-handing it often and the tires fight you that much more.
Makes it easy to just throw around in parking lots and so on.

My GTX is originally 4 speed power steering, only reason I went to MS
was weight/a little easier with the headers/the pitman seal was leaking anyway.
Put on one of those B-Van adapters, thinking how simple it'd be to go back to PS someday later on.

Yeah trying to steer one handed around a corner while I'm shifting the transmission is what gets me. PS should make that a whole bunch easier. It was also a bit of a wrestling match at really slow speeds in a parking lot or parallel parking. I have the 20:1 manual box. I tried the 16:1 manual box a few years back and it was almost impossible to drive at slow speeds.

10 years ago you’re dumping all the unnecessary heavy conveniences, and now you want it all back! Yep, definitely wussified!
Yeah, I’m softening up too.

The Borgenson PS box is quite a bit lighter than a factory PS box. I tried to move a couple of factory PS boxes the other day and just about busted something. Those boys are heavy. The Borgenson box is only 24 lbs which is heavier than a manual box but isn't terrible. The PS pump weighs a few more pounds so I'm probably adding 20 lbs to the front end with the swap. I did pull the cast iron manifolds off this time around and replaced them with tri-y headers so I'm guessing that the total weight will be roughly the same. I swapped the heavy 11 inch rear drum brakes for disc brakes last year and that saved me some weight. I'm also in the process of removing the entire center gauge panel which was fairly heavy. I don't need it anymore now that I have the digital dash installed. So I might actually be dropping weight when everything is totaled up.

Hey Andy is there a write-up somewhere for that PS pump swap? Or are you making it up as you go?

I'm making it up as I go. I've tracked down a pump, pulley and bracket so far but I still need to figure out hoses and fittings. I'll post pictures on here as I figure it out. The Borgenson swap is interesting. Obviously I'm not the first guy to do this swap since people have been doing it for a few years now, but it isn't exactly a bolt on setup. Bergman Auto Craft has a few parts to make the swap easier so that is a good start but in my case I needed to go with the Type II pump and he didn't have the brackets for it.

http://www.bergmanautocraft.com/products.php?cat=1

Where did you find the brackets? That pump and bracket looks very neat and tidy.

Kevin

Is that Bergman bracket designed for the stock style pump? I don't know if I'm going to get in to replacing my steering box but I've always hated my huge leaky stock pump. It would be nice to just modify my stock bracket. I'm going to build new brackets to swap on a high amp GM one wire alternator that I had built for my Grand National before I swapped on the later serpentine stuff.

Do you have a part # for that Corvette pump?

I ordered a bracket kit from Unisteer. Just about everybody and their brother sells a Type II pump so they are super easy to find. You can get cheap ones on ebay and Amazon or you can buy super expensive circle track pumps from KRC. I went middle of the road and bought a pump from Detroit Speed. I don't think I needed to spend that much money but this is my first rodeo and so I went with a vendor who I trust. Next time around I might just buy a cheap pump from Rock Auto and bolt it in.

The Bergman bracket is really just the Hoffman's Winners Circle bracket which you can get from most anybody so nothing magic there. If you don't have the correct bracket for a Saginaw pump then you can get that one. I did learn that Saginaw pumps are cheap to rebuild. The rebuild kits are only $10 but it does require some tools to take them apart and put them back together. You can get rebuilt Saginaw pumps for $30 on Rock Auto. What killed the Saginaw pump for me was that I didn't have any room for the pressure line fitting. So that forced me to switch to the Type II pump.

I like that power steering setup Andy. Looking forward to a writeup on it.

I'm making some progress on the motor mounts. Mostly I've figured out what won't work so I'll count that as progress. I have a fixture to hold the engine in the correct location while I bend up different shapes. The Borgeson PS box is in place and it seems to fit okay. I'm not so sure I like the angle that Borgeson puts these boxes at, it looks odd and it will force the couple to flex a few degrees every time the steering wheel is turned but I guess they designed it that way for a reason. I did have to trim one of the motor mount lugs on the block to clear the steering box but that didn't take too much time. The headers appear to clear the PS box by a fair amount. I did get the entire steering column rebuilt and rewired so it should be good to go. Also got new gaskets and seals for everything involved.

andy, i like your removable core support bracketry. i will be doing the same to my charger.

Andy.
Would you consider that removable rad core brace strong as a bolted in part as apposed to the factory welded in one piece?

I'm sure the bolt in design gives up some strength but I can pull the engine and trans with the shifter linkage still attached to the trans in just a few minutes. With the stock core support in place it gets very, very difficult to wiggle the whole assembly out of there, especially with a deep oil pan. I can gain the strength back in other places so that doesn't worry me. I prefer to be able to slide the engine in and out quickly since I'm constantly working on this car.

Why are you using the C and A body BB driver side motor mounts?

Because it is the only bracket that fits.

Seems like you're getting really close to a test drive! Looks great! Keep going!

I haven't worked on the Coronet for a few months but I did get around to mocking up the Corvette power steering pump and the low mount 90 amp alternator. Looks like everything lines up and fits. These two items should move me a little closer to the 21st century.

Andy is that the Land Cruiser alternator? Did you make a pulley or are you using the dual pulley setup?
Gus

Yes it is a Denso 210-0177 alternator which was OE on the Land Cruiser for a few years. It came with a dual belt pulley. I machined the front pulley off and kept the inner one. The OE pulley is made from steel and is super heavy.

Is that a one wire hookup?

I usually hook up an external switched 12 volt and a sense wire. It is just two wires to run so most anyone should be able to handle it.

Hello Andy, the alternator and power steering setup look great on your engine. Can you do the same power steering setup with one of your motor plates?

The Corvette PS housing is flat on the back and it sits forward of the motor plate so it should be fairly easy to mount it to a motor plate. Not very many cars use a motor plate and power steering at the same time so I doubt I'll bother with creating a bracket kit.

Thanks for the information. Mine will need both.

If you are working with a BB or a Hemi then there should be plenty of room. Just buy one of those pumps and a pulley and hang it in space so the belt is straight. You'll probably have about one inch of room behind the pump for the bracket. You'll have to figure how how you want to tension the belt. Any good street rod shop should be able to fabricate a mount for you. If you are working with a G3 then mounts already exist to use this pump.

"Corvette PS pump" is kinda vague , lots of years and models of Vettes out there.

Thanks, I was thinking rather the same thing. The setup looks good.

Do a google search on "Type II power steering pumps" and you'll find more info.

Here is a picture showing the back side of the PS pump. There is about 1.5 inches of space behind the pump to the front of the block so there is plenty of space to build a bracket that would mount on a motor plate.

Yep,

Thanks for the picture. I think that would make for a clean installation.

andy, the 12 point bolts you use, are they ARP's ?
TIA.

Yes, I use 12 point ARP stainless on all of my builds.

thanks andy.

The ARP Fasteners are the best I have found, And the 12 point fasteners are very appealing to the eye as well as very high quality.

I haven't updated this thread for a little over a year since I haven't work on the Coronet much. I got more involved in the Duster build than I expected but now that the Duster is finished for the moment I decided to dust off the Coronet and twist some wrenches. I did re-wire most of the car over the past year and I fabricated a bunch of little solutions for nagging problems but I never did finish the motor mounts which is the big project. Now that the weather has started to turn to rain I think I'll get some time to hit this project again. Hopefully I'll finish it up over the winter and have it ready to go come spring time.

Andy you should watch this video and it will give you an idea of what is happening inside your 5-speed shifting issues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UnFDaAdBaM
I have done this repair on a few 5-speeds and it makes a night and day difference

Gus

Yeah that was very interesting. I don't think I have the gumption to tear into that Doug Nash though! Looks like a lot of work and some tools that I don't have but it is cool to know that there are parts available to fix the shifting. I'll check into buying the parts and then look around for someone who can do the work.

Andy, a little off topic, but did ya run your Duster down the track this year? Curious to what it ran compared to what it dyno'ed.

No, the track didn't have any street legal sessions this summer.

The last one I done was a Richmond and I had a about $160 in parts and I charged $150 labor and it shifted like butter. He has it in a 528 Hemi Cuda

Gus

If you lived next door I would have had you go thru the Doug Nash. For now I'm just putting it back in the car so I can drive it come spring time. I don't drive this car very much but I like to have it available for some summer cruising. Now that I know there is a fix for the shifting issue I'll plan ahead for a future tear down. I did find a really nice quality speedo cable that I think is going to do the job. I haven't had a working speedo in this car since I swapped the Doug Nash into it. I just never got around to searching for a cable and the correct speedometer gear. But now I think I have it all figured out so that will be one more project crossed off the list.

Cleanliness is not far from craziness.

Must get that thing dirty. Soon.

Yeah it would be nice to have a working speedo in the car. A guy at the track told me a 69 Camaro cable would be a bolt in replacement cable for my Savoy with the Richmond.

Gus

The Camaro one might just work for you. The one I bought was a Jeep application. I think it might be a bit too long but I can just use a big loop under the floor and it should be fine.

Couldnt you have just showed up on a bracket race day and made time trial hits and raced it a round or two? Just to see what it would run.

Got a few more things squared away on the engine assembly. Almost ready to put it back into the Coronet. This project became a third or forth priority so I only get to work on it once or twice a week.

I did get the engine back in the Coronet, hopefully for the last time. I've had it in and out a few times as I sort out various fitment issues. I'm trying to take my time and do everything right this time. In all of my previous builds on this car I've always cut a bunch of corners just to get it together. This time I'm trying to come up with some more permanent solutions. We'll see if that approach works or not.

I take that as a no?

Of course you could have

Sold the Duster so now I'm working on the Coronet when I have some free time. Finally got the engine mounts fabbed up so now the engine is bolted in place. Last hurdle is figuring out the hose routing for the PS unit. Once that is figured out then the rest of the car can bolt back together.

"Sold the Duster so now.."


Perhaps the new owner will test it out while it's still under warranty.

What pulley are you using with the ATI damper and your low mount alternator setup..... Is that extra bracket needed to help stabilize the alternator