I have the us car tool inboard boxes. I have dilled a another hole in them to move my leaf springs farther back to fit my tire better. do you think it will work if I weld brackets on to the lower leaf spring mount and put a bar up to like the lower hole in the boxes it would work.

It depends on how closely the path of travel of the rear-end and the path of travel of the bar ends you're fitting line up. If they don't align well, the pinion angle of the car will change as the suspension goes through its travel.

That could not only cause binding as the rear-end goes up and down, but could eventually break something.

Are you talking about welding a bracket to the shock plate between the u-bolts at the axle, and then attaching it to the front spring hanger?

It would need to have a pivot at both ends like a caltrac, or it will bind up.

https://www.calvertracing.com/images/pages/41.jpg

If you are talking about a solid mount front and back on the bar it will bind. something will have to give so that it can change length through its travel.

it will have a rod end on both ends. or do you mean it has to slide some

If you're talking about a bar directly below the spring, mounted under the shock plate Caltracs style and attached with a through bolt in an unused hole in the springbox under the spring...it will bind.

With all of the good stuff available these days, it's pretty difficult to come up with a better mousetrap. Someone has an "a-ha!" moment every once in a while, but copying a proven system would be a better option.

Cal-tracs are pretty easy to duplicate. We did some and had about $100 total in materials.

Anyone seen Scott drake traction bars for a mustang.they say they were stock on shelby mustang's. Those look exactly what I'm talking about. Why don't they bind.

With a rod and on each end it will still bind, but will somewhat overcome the binding through spring flex and unwanted pinion angle change. Which will sort of act like a 4 link.

That binding will prevent spring wrap up and help wheel hop. However it absolutely kills the suspensions ability to plant the tire and provide traction.

That being said, if you were even willing to look past those problems...the placement of the pivots would be critical, as they will control the instant center length, and the anti-squat % of the suspension. The Scott Drake bars put the IC waaaaay out front, which doesn't work well on a moderate powered car.

You would have to move the rear bar attachment nearly to the ground to make it anywhere close, but that makes the binding even worse.

Moral of the story is...you'd hurt traction more then help it with the compromised bar geometry and binding.

The slide-a-link gets around the binding by adding the ability to change lower bar length, and the caltrac gets around it with an additional pivot.