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Re: diy traction bars
[Re: plycuda]
#2600459
01/02/19 03:24 PM
01/02/19 03:24 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277 West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
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It depends on how closely the path of travel of the rear-end and the path of travel of the bar ends you're fitting line up. If they don't align well, the pinion angle of the car will change as the suspension goes through its travel.
That could not only cause binding as the rear-end goes up and down, but could eventually break something.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's 1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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Re: diy traction bars
[Re: plycuda]
#2600641
01/02/19 09:27 PM
01/02/19 09:27 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,524 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,524
Fulton County, PA
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If you're talking about a bar directly below the spring, mounted under the shock plate Caltracs style and attached with a through bolt in an unused hole in the springbox under the spring...it will bind.
With all of the good stuff available these days, it's pretty difficult to come up with a better mousetrap. Someone has an "a-ha!" moment every once in a while, but copying a proven system would be a better option.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: diy traction bars
[Re: plycuda]
#2600765
01/03/19 01:22 AM
01/03/19 01:22 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,635 Oakland, MI
dizuster
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,635
Oakland, MI
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With a rod and on each end it will still bind, but will somewhat overcome the binding through spring flex and unwanted pinion angle change. Which will sort of act like a 4 link.
That binding will prevent spring wrap up and help wheel hop. However it absolutely kills the suspensions ability to plant the tire and provide traction.
That being said, if you were even willing to look past those problems...the placement of the pivots would be critical, as they will control the instant center length, and the anti-squat % of the suspension. The Scott Drake bars put the IC waaaaay out front, which doesn't work well on a moderate powered car.
You would have to move the rear bar attachment nearly to the ground to make it anywhere close, but that makes the binding even worse.
Moral of the story is...you'd hurt traction more then help it with the compromised bar geometry and binding.
The slide-a-link gets around the binding by adding the ability to change lower bar length, and the caltrac gets around it with an additional pivot.
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