Your AWESOME NOVA !!!! Thanks for the reply, I got nervous. I know that Brightside sells their stuff by the quart, but my mind got the better of me and thought of a moment in gallons as in the Rustoleum solutions.. Please do let us see the final result to when you get your ride in the final color you pick. Like I said, unfortunately I have a bit of body work ahead of me. I have a few friends that WANT to help in this task. I will have my engine rebuilt by the end of this week. And will have my friend over to my " garage" ( storage unit) next weekend to start the panel straightening. The color I hope to have settled by then........ . I am open to suggestions. My interior is also Blue. Again thank you to all for the inspiration. I wanted to paint my car my self but doubt it could be done... But I have been following this for a COUPLE OF WEEKS AND READING IT LIKE IT WAS THE BIBLE.

The 'one roller' technique for the Brightside is the same as the technique for the Rustoleum. Once the paint has been applied to the panel, I keep moving the roller across the panel in the opposite direction to the way it was painted with just the weight of the roller. I do it for a minute or so and all of the bubbles go away.

The Gloss Black Metal Armour faded badly because of water damage to the paint. The Metal Armour is a different paint to the Rustoleum. It has similar properties but it is made to a different 'recipe' and it is made in a different country. Just because I experienced problems with the Metal Armour Gloss Black, that doesn't mean that the Rustoleum Gloss Black will do the same thing. I'm sure that 69charger has used the Rustoleum Gloss Black on a Honda without any problems at all.

Waxing a freshly applied coat of paint is not a good idea. The paint still needs to breath to allow the solvents in the paint to escape. If I had of waxed the Metal Armour straight away, I would have had more problems with the paint than it just fading.

Aussie, again you have layed down a sweet looking paint job!

When you say you rolled it straight, you mean with no thinner? What was the temperature when you were rolling?

Hi Exit

I rolled the Brightside without any thinners at all. The temp for the first coat was about 18 C. When I did the second coat (yesterday) I did it outside in the sun and the temp was about 22 C. The 'outside' job went really well until a butterfly decided that the passenger's door was a great place to land, and that part of the paint got a little wrecked. Then I tried to fix it an it got a bit more wrecked....

Thank goodness for wet sanding, so I get the chance to fix these problems!!

so how long should u wait after u polish before u wax??

also , whats the verdict on the brightside off ebay?? he has the color i want but am unsure if the paint is too old, or whatever.

does the brightside paint over bare metal or bondo, or is primer needed. that was one of the things that caught my eye about the rustoleum, which makes it just that much easier.

aussie is rite, the 85 crx i painted about 13yrs ago was the first car i ever painted with this method when i was young and poor!!!! that paint was great for the next 3.5 yrs and lasted 3 winters while i was going to university in North Bay, Ontario, Canada, then i got rid of the car because it had 550,000 KMS on it . If you know where North Bay is, you'll know that there is retarded amounts of snow, salt, ect....it's about 4-5 hours north of Toronto, Ontario, Canada, there was times where i did'nt see my car for 2 weeks at a time because it was under 6ft of snow. I painted that car in 2 days at the cottage with stuff that was lying around that my dad was using, foam rollers and all, actually it was my now wife's idea to paint it this way, so really all the credit should go to her, well not all she actually helped me paint the car, she did all the nooks and crannys while i rollered the rest of the car. That crx was painted with no thinner, no sanding except for a quick "scuff" of the old dull, faded original paint, and it was waxed the next day. it never went dull, faded, or anything like that, but i did wax it twice a year.

here's a pic once again: those are the only pics i have of the car, taken about 2 weeks after it was painted i got the windows tinted and put on some fog lights, the first pic was when i bought the car in the spring, and it was painted in the summer. i scanned the pics from photos. It did look awesome, about a 5 footer, not bad for 2 days work!!!

Hello Mopar guys. I have been reading this board non-stop for several days now, and had to sign up to ask a burning question. Has anyone given the Rustoleum paint a few weeks to cure and then taken it to a profesional detailer? On this and other forums talking about this method, we always come down to the cut and polish stage. Lots of people are reporting decent results with the painting methods listed, but then when they get to the polishing, they are just grasping at straws. It seems to me that a profesional detailer would be able to extract the maximum performance out of this paint, and give us a good sample of what is possible with it. Obviously, we wouldn't even think of doing this to the 67 Camaro or 68 Impala, but would definately think about doing it on the old hunting truck (88 Suburban). I would love to see just what the potential of this method is in the hands of someone that knows how to get the best out of paint. I saw the results that admactanium got, and do wonder just how nice this paint can look. Sorry to jump into your Pentastar forum, but this has been a fascinating read....

Forgive my intrustion here for I would like to answer that myself. The goal here from the very beginning to provide the best from $50 ( or something real close .... Now while I truly beieve your request is not beyond any one's thought of possibly doing and may already have been done. But for me its all about me and how it will turn out "me" doing work. Maybe you have a buddy that does this for a living and all it will cost you is a six pack.... of beer that is.... My interest is to what we can do that would not involve professionals.

Now I need to shut up before I am kicked off the boarsd and get back to finishing my engine so I can get to start banging on the sheet metal get to the painting myself........

Coyote,
No worries. I am just extremely curious about what the potential is. All efforts I have found so far involve a mild polish and wax, and I am wondering what can be had with a good cut and polish. I am not trying to drive the costs up, or take it out of the hands of DIYers. If more of us understood exactly what the max potential was, we would have something to strive for. It is very possible that people like Exit are looking for more than this method can provide, but I am wondering about that. Cars from the 60's did not have the greatest paint jobs from the factory, and duplicating the low gloss and sheen of these paint jobs today is very difficult. I am actually wondering if it is possible to re-create the look and feel of these paint jobs using inexpensive modern paints and techniques. If you can even get close, it will free up a ton of cash for people restoring the low value cars. As someone mentioned earlier, not everyone is restoring a 69 Daytona with a 426. (Forgive me if that isn't a high value Mopar, but it seems pretty rare and unusual to me). As I said before, it isn't a method I would consider on some of our rarer cars, but for a decent driver for my oldest (61 Buick) or my hunting truck, I would love to get reasonable results using an inexpensive method that my kids could do. The roller idea eliminates a lot of the health hazards of painting. I am just curious why no-one has taken one of their test pieces to a pro (or experienced buddy) to find out what is possible with this method. If it turns out you can get results better than a quicky single stage, this would definately put paintwork into the hands of many enthusiasts that lack the funding or opertunity to spray. Also, would like to hear more from Exit on what he is finding with the Canvass. It is strange that he was able to get a hard surface with some of his work, but not with the latest. Could the build-up be effecting this? If I recall, there is around 18 layers on this car now.

http://img181.imageshack.us/my.php?image=broncogreenjv7.jpg

here's my shot at it, but I did it slightly different than others, I thinned it with acetone and sprayed it out in the paint booth. So far it looks good, I'll know after i get it out of the booth monday, and ill get some more pics.

Basically from what I've noticed, it boils down to this. If I rolled it, I can still dent it with my fingernail but it does not come all the way off.

On the stuff I sprayed with a HVLP gun, it is hard, and glossy, but if I push hard enough I can get it off with my nail, but it comes off so easy once I break the surface, that I think it's an adhesion issue. I did not spend much time prepping my door jambs. I probably should have hit them with 220 to give the paint some teeth, but I didn't. The paint I sprayed seems hard enough (or would probably be very hard given 4+ weeks of curing) but it was my fault I didn't prep the surface well enough for good adhesion.

Under my hood, I did hit with sandpaper (180 maybe) before using the rechargeable spray gun, and that paint is very hard and adhesion seems good.

Alas it's not scientific since many variables changed between application methods (roll, rechargeable spray can, HVLP + compressor), but I would venture a guess that good surface prep + sprayed rustoleum would turn out well and be hard and glossy enough for an old car.

Moparguy, how many coats did you use?

Hi Marq.... you are singing my tune... ....

Coyote and Marq,
I don't expect anyone to take a full car in, I am just surprised that no one has taken a small test piece in.

If you look far enough back in the thread, one person with a lot of detailing experience did do a test on a motorcycle gas tank. He posted a few pics that showed results every bit as good as I would expect from a very good body shop, and much better than the run-of-the-mill body shop.

Here are the results of two coats of Brightside Gloss Black, both rolled without any thinning of the paint.










I'm going to give the paint a month to fully cure and then I'll start the final wetsanding and polishing. Only thirty days to go......

Oh, and the total cost of this paint job was $39.90 AUD. $37.50 for 1 litre of Brightside and 2 foam rollers @ $1.20 each. I love cheap!!!!!

If you look far enough back in the thread, one person with a lot of detailing experience did do a test on a motorcycle gas tank. He posted a few pics that showed results every bit as good as I would expect from a very good body shop, and much better than the run-of-the-mill body shop.


I was going to say the same thing. Beautiful high gloss orange.