Have a Jeg's Aluminum cover on it. Using Royal Purple 75W90.
Will take forever with my hose and funnel!!

Thanks Mike

Soak oil bottle in boiling water.

one of those drill pumps about 5 dollars at harbor freight and a couple pieces of hose

We used to put the fluid in a antifreeze jug. Put a 3/8" hole in the cap. Slide a steel 3/8" tube down through this hole to the bottom of the jug.Bend the tube at a 90 angle where it exits the jug to fit the cover fill opening. Poke a small hole in the top of the jug. Hold a blow gun close to this hole. Hold it to close and you can watch the jug expand, back it away a bit. The air pressure will cause the fluid to flow out of the steel tube into the axle. Actually works pretty well.
Doug

I use a small pump up sprayer with the nozzle cut off/opened up. Fill it with what you need to put in the trans, pump it up, lock the trigger on and walk away. The SCCA guys taught me that way back. It's really nice for transmission if you don't have a pump OR you aren't dispensing from a pail.

These old axle grease pumps are really nice. I've had one for many years and would hate to be without it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Grease-Oil-Gun-Greaser-Lube-Antique-Gas-Pump-Sign-/163381755623

Parts stores have a small pump that works pertty well got mine at Advanced.My tranny is a pain to fill as the plug is close to floor.Only problem is tha cap for the pump is for a bigger cap hole.I just stick the hose in the bottle and pump away.Rocky

I've used these in the past for both the trans and the diff.

https://www.amazon.com/Slippery-Pete-Fluid-Quart-Bottles/dp/B07CX4XKFH

I've always just put the bottles in front of my torpedo heater for a couple minutes. Squeezes out like water. Don't put it too close though.

I have one of those also I think mine is a Sta Lube brand

Went to Tractor Supply and got a $15 fluid transfer pump and it made it an easy 5 minute job!!


Thanks for the reply's.
Mike

The turbo Guru in Calif-- Banks-- has done extensive research on aftermarket aluminum covers --if it is flat inside it will kill your rear--the curved ditch in factory covers channels oil to the pinion--the alum covers that are flat inside do not allow proper oil path to pinion and they add air to the oil
Check it out on Youtube or Bangshift etc
The extent of the research was amazing--they add power to all kinds of trucks , campers etc so this was a natural area for them to look into--results are stunning--stock covers way better

He tested every brand some were ok some were a disaster

well rats ! i got one of those cast covers, some generic no name deals for cheap, and welded a 1 1/2" bung with a fabbed up o-ring sealed screw on fill cap on the top. this is for my on going 33 humpback project. as there are no cap bolt girdle screws on this thing, would it be possible for me to fab up some kind of baffle/deflector type of thing to fix this issue ? [or at least help it out some]
it will, if i ever get it done, see a little street time, and all i need is to cook the guts because of a cover issue.

I wouldn't sweat gales research for an hot rod or drag race deal. The rear end doesn't get worked hard enough or long enough to see the issues Gale looked at. I would follow his research for my tow rig though.

comforting reply. thanks ! but as usual for me, now i'll take a stock cover and compare it to the inside of my cast one just to see if it is even feasible to rig a baffle/slinger type thing up.

Couldn't hurt!