On top of the valley pan. Best I can tell my turbo oil supply lines, sender, and mechanical psi gauge plumbing is all dry.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qy5YPYfrHFYd4Qyq5

All over the side of the engine, the trans dipstick is in the way a bit, I couldn't get a photo without it. It seems to be oily around the manifold but all along the head to block seem as well.
linking to it so the full res photo is available (you're looking at it from underneath the pass side at my upside down RV manifold on the turbo set up):

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FpGaZmiNwCSVmDDt7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/itLFtLqeouC8MYQD8

side photo for reference (engine wasn't so oily 6yrs ago either)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a8N8mqhSNuGPA7at7
There's definitely some oil making it around the manifold even though the valve cover doesn't look nearly as wet as it should be for all the oil on the side of the engine

Which side is the turbo mounted and is pressure
down

Twins. Drains are dry best I can tell. Hose is dry as is fitting at pan

Block the breathers. Air up the crankcase with 3psi and watch where the oil comes out. Spraying soapy water on will help pinpoint the leak.
Doug

The 3rd source is your cracked valley pan.

You see a crack or just experience that happening? I'm only running 5psi still so I shouldn't have blowed it up. Doing the carb cleaner test I do seem to have a vac leak at the intake.

Happens all the time with boost or n2O. They crack right down the center.

easy to prove. stuff rags tight under the intake front and rear. drive it hard. no oil... cracked valley.

Throw "cracked valley pan mopar" into the google machine.

If you are running a stock tin valley pan I
am surprised it didnt crack long ago

Is there a valley system that I can switch to that doesn't need the heads to come off?

The heads don’t need to come off for valley changes except with some versios of aftermarket heads.
That intake will only accept a factory style pan. The intake you’re using needs the tub style for clearance.

440source has a system that fits the rpm perf but says 1 head needs to come off. That's where the question came from.

http://store.440source.com/Sheet-Metal-Valley-Pan-B-Engine-Dual-Plane/productinfo/127-1012/

What heads are you using? I see no possible scenario where that valley pan would work on a factory cylinder head. A typical “906” or “452” head does not have a continuous surface to seal to. That style pan would need a continuous surface to work with.
I would replace your pan with the same thing you have, and just vent the crankcase better.
The one thing that you mentioned, about carb spray/ intake leaks... The intake needs to come off. Make sure that the intake fits the heads correctly. You may be blowing boost into the crankcase at the intake / head surface.

516's. Yes their website seems to advise some silicone magic for stock heads.
I have the stock breather and pcv, at my low boost levels I had (perhaps incorrectly) assumed that would be ok?

what happened with this? any update?

Thanks for checking up, waiting for cold weather to tear it down. Need to try to rca some vibrations as well before tear down

I’ll preface this by making it clear that I have no experience with turbo’s or superchargers. I do, however, have experience with PCV valves, and it would seem to me that the two things wouldn’t play well together. I would think it’s likely that with positive pressure applied to the valve, the PCV system would quickly become nothing more than an accesss tube from the plenum to the crankcase, effectively applying your boost to the crankcase. I’d eliminate that pronto.