What all parts are required to replace a single reservoir master cylinder to a dual on a 1964 fury with the HD brakes. Also, what master cylinder is best to use to do the swap?

Thanks!

hi
a 95 labaron has a 7/8 " mc if you want easy pedal psi .

a 15/16 will work good also .

I would use a later dual drum M/C, like from a 68 Fury. It will bolt in place of you existing M/C.

What are "HD brakes"? that is unclear.

Do you mean power brakes?

You will need to mimic the all 68 drum setup for the M/C connections.

Front port connects to the rear drums. Rear port will T to the front brakes.

so there are a few ways to go.
the lebaron one will require the adapter plate to switch from a 4 bolt master to a 2 bolt master.

but that is the plastic resevior. so if looks matter you would go with the fury type. though I think you can step up to like a 72 or 74 so you get the disc / drum.

but be sure to get a manual vs the power master or you will be standing on the pedal to stop. vs stepping on it.

also, this is a do as I say vs as I do, most recommend adding a factory type proportioning valve, so it locks out a side if you lose fluid and can still stop.

Not enough info...manual or power brakes?

If manual you need an adapter plate and 15/16 MC. You can get both from Doctor Diff. Disconnect the rear line and plug rear port on distribution block. If you plan on going to disc brakes install an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear line.

there's a guy on FABO that has a new alum MC/4 to 2 conversion plate for sale for reasonable money. Not sure what bore it is. I'm about tempted to nab it myself.

On my 63 that has power drum brakes I used this dual M/C that is listed for a 68 Roadrunner. It bolted right up and works fine. After I ran the new brake lines of course. Ron

The car has the 11 inch rear brakes. I am going have to verify if it has power brakes, I don't believe it does. If it is a manual brake car I assume it will require a brake pedal rod to match the master cylinder? The car is at a local shop and they called me to help them find a master cylinder. I've never done one but I knew it has been discussed here a lot and I would get pointed in the right direction.

Thanks!

We run 70 C body masters.Juist have to make sure it for drum/drum.Disc /drum is different inside.manual brakes the rod still works with it.Just have to make sure the small retainer is on the rod so it dosent back out.I did run a small 68 type master at first.then changed to the 70 c body one.Used the same in my kids 62 300 also.they bolt right up.later alumimum masters require and adapter etc to use.Will need to run new lines for master also.been a long time since Ive done a drum only car. Rocky

In an all drum set up there is no proportioning valve. There is a safety valve, which is available from Doctor Diff.

http://www.doctordiff.com/brake-valve.html

If it's manual brakes you need to swap the rod over. You will need a new retainer.

Might ask Doc if he has any retainers separate, I know you can get them with his adjustable pushrod kit.

Last 2 masters I bought had the retainers IIRC small vacuum hose also works.Rocky

Buddy of mine did just this on his 1966 Satellite.

He used the under hood stuff for a 1967-69 B body.
master cyl, lines and dist valve.

Call fine lines they should have everything you need

Drum brake master cylinders have the 10lb residual valves (behind the brass fitting in the hole where the line hooks up). If drums only, use master with same size reservoir f&b. 67-68-69 b-body.

stick a drill bit into the brass cones & you'll feel the springiness if it has a RPV. that way if it doesn't then you wont have to pull the cone if it would need to come out of there which as you know it does for discs. EDIT It is easy to damage the brass cone when removeing it so if you dont have to then your ahead.

When I took the single pot off my 63 Belvedere I used a 66/77 manual master.I just put a strange aluminum one on.You can heve the old one if you want

I see a lot of people changing to dual master without putting in a "safety valve/proportioning valve/shuttle valve". Without that valve controlling the output of the master, you don't have a dual system.

Very true, glad you brought it up, the most important part that makes the system work.

Welcome to the show, it was already brought up and sources linked.

Thanks for all the good information and help. The guy decided today to go another direction, so not sure what he is doing.

Thanks!!

That makes sense but on my 63 the only valve I can add is the safety valve as mine is power drum brakes. It uses no metering valve and a prop valve would only need be in the rear line. And it has no safety valve from the factory being a single drum brake unit. I don't need the safety valve feature as of course I would know if I loose half the brakes by the pedal. My brakes work good as I have it and if I have a prop valve in my rear line the only function the safety valve would do in my setup is turn on a lite on the dash if I wired it in to warn of a fluid loss in one side. I can see on disc/drum of course but don't see it really needed on my setup that I can think of. Ron