Hi everyone,
This winter I'm going to be building a motor for my car for next year. My main objective is to build a fast strip car but also use it to go on local cruises and pick up the groceries on 91 octane pump gas. I like turbo cars and admire the turbo scene. I have built a few turbo setups as well. Here is the setup I'm thinking of..

440 stroked to a 528(already have a 4.375 crank and aluminum rods laying around)
-9.3-9.5 compression
-Standard port Victor heads
-Custom solid roller cam( 115 LSA, 245/255@.50/ .640/.660 lift)
-street dominator intake(already have one on my 440)
-850 cfm csu blow thru carb
-Custom stainless 2" headers
-Single 107mm turbo A/A intercooler

Even though ill have head studs and mls head gaskets I want to push a max of 10-12psi out of it(for now) at the track on race gas and 8psi max on 91.

How much HP do you think I can expect from the 528 in natural form and under boost on pump gas? I know the intake will limit it but for now That's what ill use and then when I get a hood scoop on the car ill go with a taller intake.

Thanks!

I have no idea how much power it will make, but i am VERY concerned about a stock block holding up. Turbos may be easy on stuff to a point, but rb blocks are not reliable above 700 na horsepower. Do some research on 400 block based combos. You can make 512 cubes, and have a lot more strength. Better yet, look for a good aluminum or iron aftermarket block and build something that will live a long life.
Something to think about; one busted stock block will cost how much to fix? Compare that to the cost of a good block. What if the breakage does damage way beyond the block itself? Now that expensive block will start to look like a bargain!!

I always wanted to do a turbo v8 but I figured all I’d need would be a junkyard LA with a forged bottom end and the ring gaps upened up a little. The thing that always stopped me is that trying to become a decent carb tuner (especially since widebands became affordable) I learned just how much you have to compromise to get a set up that runs well all over the place. Not that you can’t get a carb set up great with good street manners and wot too but it seems like fuel injection just doesn’t make any of those compromises- it is just expensive and moves you from wrenching to computing.

Why do a maximum effort build and leave all that drivability on the table with a carb? If you can only safely put down a bunch less than 1000hp why not spend the stroker money on efi? I guess you will need forged pistons and good rods even if you start with a steel crank.

Sorry I’m not helping with a number or coming from experience with the turbo stuff. When I first started building engines I always wondered why average performance rebuilds struggled to top 1hp/cid while it seemed like big strokers regularly got like 800hp out of 500cid. Is there magic in the inches I thought? I quickly found out- Nope! Just usually those with big cubic inches were spending BIG cubic dollars!

Seems like the above poster might be on to something- to use the potential of all those cubes and forced induction it might be wise to start out with an awesome iron block or even better an aluminum block that can be welded if (when) it breaks.

If you already have all these parts and are going to screw it together anyway I would love to hear how you make out! It sounds like a ton of fun and you will need a lot of safety equipment, parachutes, all the fun stuff!

If this is a guess how many jellybeans contest I’ll predict you go to 1100hp and it lasts a good little while before you drive over the crank.

107mm - you're expecting over 2,000 HP?
Only once

I would totally go with a 400 block but all the stroker kits I have seen don't have the 4.375" stroke setup for a B engine. Maybe someone else knows? (Custom pistons?)

The rod length will determine the fit on the pistons, if you don't have rods yet I've use 4.300 stroke cranks in 400 blocks with 6.8 and 6.7 long BB Chevy type h beam rods in the past.
I have a project in the works right now with a Windberg 4.25 stroke 400 crank and a set of Crower 6.535 Chevy type billet steel rods, no pistons yet as I haven't got around to figuring out all the specs. on this new motor like the compression ratio, head Cc and so on
Go with a good sonic tested 400 block I would go with a set of aftermarket caps also with main studs and no block filler

Isn't that kind of high compression for a turbo motor on the street? Definitely build a high quench motor from a 400 block or aftermarket as mentioned above with aluminum heads with studs top and bottom.

Have you considered running a Sniper or a pro-flo 4 multi point EFI?

That 528 cubes is going to need a .060 overbore - iffy in a "normally" aspirated application. In a turbo application you'll be luck if it makes one pass.

It's a turbo, you don't need big cubes, you need ring and gasket seal and a block that won't fail.

EFI would be highly preferred.

There was a post about B1 head, blow through B1 head motor making 1300+ on a 400 230 block a few years ago, maybe search for that? S/F....Ken M

You will be fine. I did it. Used my stock 440 block as my learning motor. Lifted the heads at 30 PSI. It would reseal until I made hi boost again. Did that 35-40 times then built a new motor. The shortblocks is on a stand waiting on me to use it in something else.

Stock block with all those parts will be fine..........N/A.
If you want to be able to throw some boost at I would go with an aftermarket block and build it right the 1st time.Stay small on the bore and leave some room for next time.There WILL be a next time!!
I wish I boosted 20 years sooner!