I built the carb and he has a WB...........

Yep. I have and use a wide band. Cruises 13.8 to 14.2. Im still not convinced to carb is rich. I will run some 7's in it awhile and see how they burn. I have some 6's on order as well.

Any results,changes?I am looking at going to a hotter plug NGK R5671A-8[4554] from a -9.

Dave at 3K rpm cruise you should be on the mains....first Id go to NGK6 and see an, then I'd pull a little jet for better AFR, even the best carbs need dialing into your combo.

Running it at cruise in the hi 14s, lo 15s aint gonna hurt it and will clean it up, there is very little load on the engine at idle or cruise.

I run my Hemi in this way on NGK 6s - plugs look perfect withe a nice ring on the plg base/shell and the car runs clean/awesome. WOTs are in the mid 12s. Imho, NGK 8s are a little cold for the street generally, it really depends on your combo etc. Im gonna switch to 8s for the track.

The engine is telling you what it likes...let er have what she needs

Using ngk 7's now. 3000 cruise rpm afr is 13.0 now. 3500 cruise gives 12.5 range. Not sure when boosters are all in. I believe the boosters start just after 2500rpm. Plug rings have a little color, but porcilen still dark. What causes plugring to burn clean but porcilen to burn dark?

Man i run 8's in a 13.7:1 alky engine and they are almost too cold for that

If I was you I would lean down the idle fuel feed circuit and the transfer fuel feed circuits to cruise north of 14.8 AFR
My old pump gas Duster was tuned to do that with the six pack and the Holley 1050 CFM Dominator later, lean is mean and responsive also

Now you can at least read the plug to see what is going on with any changes.Thank you for your info.

I resently changed the t slot to a .059 from a .055. Engine sounds smoother and runs cooler. I seem to have a pump gas issue and i think it might be the ethanol boiling in the squirter circuit on a hot air temp day. Cool engine and cool air temp if goes away. I can watch the fuel spurt out of pri squirter at idle with hot engine and air temp. Switched brand of fuel and got worse.

Are you saying the fuel is percolating out of the squirters or is fuel being pulled through the squirter?

I remember someone on here posted a link to a company that made an anti pullover parts to stop the squirter from letting fuel get by it from airflow.

Another thing that I heard helps is to not use the tube style squirters.....

Its always idling when it does this. next time i will shut it off and see what happens.

Does it have the correct check valve, anti siphoning ball, under the squirter?
if not, get one first and see if that helps
The first 4 barrel I "rebuilt, dipped and kitted,(1957 Chevy Rochester 4GC) ended up with me not knowing where that check ball went
Stuff happens

Yes. It does have the check valve. I still think its the fuel. My brother inlaw has same issue with a edelbrock carb.

I run NGK 8s in my small block 11 to 1 pump gas drag week motor. Usually do the week on only two sets. The street drives dirty them up a little, but the nitrous passes clean them right up!!

When I ran it NA, I had 7s in it all week, and they were perfect.

Maybe you can find someone with a fuel gravity test kit I don't know what other things you can check.Will you try a new gas station/brand?I got some #7 plugs to use and your info was helpful in choosing the plugs.

No ball bearings that's old skool it has weighted check valves............

We have learned a lot since then, huh
As far as sucking fuel out of the squirters that is usually a sign that the carb. is NOT idling on the idle circuit only, it may be idling up on the transfer slots

Shouldn't pull fuel at idle at all but up top under power, actually part of the tune up just check out Shiloh's video of his motor on the dyno..........

What is the idle AFR?