It's good to see things coming around for blocks in the Mopar world.

Any idea what that block weighs?

Thanks for the update, very interesting.

I have a used Bryant crank and have also worked with Jim, he has always been very helpful.

I just picked up a used Winberg crank and they have been very good to work with as well.

Good luck and please keep us posted!

Bill

On Hughes engines web site it says they weight 215lbs. I'll look for my invoice and see if I can find it.

So you had the cam journals and lifters bushed, was that "needed" or could they have been used "as is" for a lesser build? Same with the bores (cylinder and crank), could they have been sucessfuly as is or did they need work?

Well the bore' s are a rough bore, I got the 3.99 and opened mine up, if you run a hydraulic lifter you might be okay, the cost isn't all that much to get them bushed and it's just extra insurance. The lifter galley is raised slightly from the center of the lifter. The cam bearing area can be opened to regular cam and bearings, I went roller and 50mm. It's well worth it for these blocks.

Plus depending on the heads you want to use, you'll need to need to have the coolant passages drilled. I'm using magnum heads and drilled 10 holes each side, but you can do it or have the shop do it. And if you go with standard bearings a oiling passage will need to be drilled in the rear journal as stated on the website as well. Roller bearing it's not needed due to the drain back and splash will be enough as Mike at QMP told me.

On mine the block came ready for 50mm roller bearings, ruff bored to 4.120", and the mains were bored but needed to be line honed. The lifter bores looked great and would work with the 50mm cam.The deck was ruff machined.

So bottom line you would need the block to be decked, line honed and the bores honed to 4.125". Not a lot of work if you ask me.

Did you ask your machinist how he determined the bore centerline on your rough bored block? Just curious. Not trying to stir the pot.

Nice, I may end up with one and I'm not even a drag racer. Just a regular guy.

I wonder what would be involved in building a big inch P7 aluminum monster. I believe the aluminum block is 1k more but not sure if same improvements have been made as iron block. Does anyone know of a current aluminum block build?

The blocks are not the same for p7 heads. Im not sure if any of the xrII blocks are working in builds. You can buy an Ernie Elliot aluminum block for p7 heads that can go to 440 inches.

I believe on a CNC Rottler

These block can be made to except P5 heads

Now that might be well worth the extra effort.

P7 Head I don't believe would be any better than a W8 or W9

69lawndart on here did a aluminum 420cid Ritter block build,I think that was the size, he helped with some improvments on things he found on his.

Sorry I was wrong it was a RMC v30 Block CNC Machine.

So with news getting out that the Ritter blocks are getting better will that news deture Darts interest in getting into the small block Mopar market. Hmmmmmmm.

he will fixture the block off of the mains and use a CNC boring machine. The same thing for the hone.QMP is not your average machine shop..

Reason I ask, is, if the rough bore is done with the same precision. I wonder how close the two machine centers were, and how close to blueprint, people actually end up with.

Basically he will cut the whole wherever it needs to be.. they do a lot of file core blocks also