Hi Guys, I have a 69 RR with a 383, TTI headers and a Robbmc Starter that isn't starting. I replaced the Battery & Starter Relay, still no cranking. I verified there is 12 volts at the Starter Solenoid. Is that it, does that mean the starter is kaput? Is there anything else I need to check before surgery? It's been starting excellent for 6 summers now, 18,000 miles, always garaged when not in use. Please advise, thanks, Paul "6T9RR"

If it's an automatic try holding the key in the start position and shift from park to neutral. If it kicks the starter in then you have a shifter linkage adjustment issue. Also it's possible that the neutral safety switch on the trans could be disconnected or bad. Use a screwdriver and jump the battery terminal and the starter wire,which is the one held on with a screw, on the relay. That should make the starter turn over.

It's a 4 speed, sorry I left that off before. Thank you for your quick reply, however, I very much appreciated it because I have my car dead on the street in front of my house instead of in the garage...

I tried jumping the starter by shorting the relay already as well, no luck.

The only other on the car test I can think of is shorting across the terminals on the starter itself. Is the starter relay you have on it made for a stick or is it an auto relay with the ground terminal grounded to the body?

check for volts at the wires on the starter while someone is turning the key to start, go from there. And check for volts at the relay while someone is turning the key to start, go from there.

He has verified voltage at the starter solenoid and has tried jumping the small to big terminal. This eliminates everything before the starter in the starting system.

The only thing not conclusive here is ground to the starter, which is pretty rare since it's bolted to the block, just like the negative terminal from the battery.

Before condemning the starter. It may be the big starter wire. If it's corroded or has broken strands in it. There will be 12 volts, enough to make a multi meter read 12v or a brighten up a test light, but not enough current to engage a solenoid and spin the armature.

Or ya, the starter is bad.

I tried to short the 2 stater wires but I got large sparks before the ignition was turned to start, this scared the hec out of me so I aborted the attempt. The relay I have is for a 4speed.

The wires on the starter are clean & free of corrosion. I’m thinking I need to start loosening the header. Thank you guys for the quick feedback, I really appreciate it!

I just went thru this myself. from your descrip (what you jumped/amount of sparks) the starter IS bad.

East to test.Test light to ground.Should have power all the time to large lug.Move to small terminal.Use key if test litgh lights power is there.Should crank.You can also make sure terminals are tight.Then tap starter with a hammer and many times they will start.Oh yeah just because the ends on cables look clean that cable itself can be bad inside.Ive seen many that were corroded inside.That and make sure battery has good voltage.Ive seen batterys that will spark but say with lights on and cranking they dont have enough juice.Rocky

If one of the brushes of the starter has become stuck in its slot,
tapping with a hammer may jar the brush loose.
Heating the starter case with an electric heat gun before tapping can also add to a chance of success, but clean and wipe any flammable substances anywhere nearby, and have an extinguisher close at hand.

For similar reasons, heavy spraying with a lubricant/drying agent into the starter after trying the above first, might also free up the brush. After a couple minutes soak, tap with a hammer before trying it again.

Since it is a manual transmission have you considered push starting to get the vehicle to a shop with a lift?

Is the bendix engaging when you turn the key? Does it engage when you jump across the posts on the starter relay? Any click-click sound? If no sound of the bendix engaging it could be the bendix is shot, the starter relay is shot (bypass it to find out) or no juice getting to it, to engage the starter teeth to the ring gear. If it is engaging the bendix then the contacts in the bendix that feed juice to the windings to energize the stator and spin the starter motor could be corroded/pitted/worn out, the brushes could be used up/chewed up and / or there's a short due to brush dust accumulated.
Starters are DC motors and pretty simple to tear into. I've polished the stator contacts, washed the brush dust out of a few and cleaned/sanded/filed the bendix contacts on more than one to it going. They can be bench tested by clamping it into a bench vise, and hooking jumper cables to it. Positive to the + on the battery and the stud the heavy red wire bolts to. Negative to the - on the battery and to a mounting ear on the case. A bump switch, used to bump a motor over when setting valve lash, between the wire posts on the starter, or even a screwdriver...