I looked at the newer ones used in the B vans. Both looked great but the mounting bosses/ style was almost vertical. The RB mounting has the top bolt at about 2:00 and the bottom about 8:00.
The positive terminal would touch the engine block in the one I saw.
I could certainly make a set of brackets if I decide to take it that far.
Thanks!

I’d take a look at tuff stuff alternators. I bought their 130 amp 3 wire square back, just like the original one. It has 65-70 idling amps. I’m running a BeCool dual fan set up, AC and so forth. Have all new factory wiring, I do not use the ammeter as I have Dakota gauges. I also ran a 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery as suggested by Nacho, he also said I could run it to the starter relay but I chose the battery. It absolutely works perfect. Here’s a Summit part # TFF-9509DP. Dual Pully just like you need. Those guys are up in Cleveland if you want to look them up and give em a call.

did it came with an output chart?

I'd like to know the 100 amps unit output at iddle. Per your 130 unit specs the 100 amps should be on 55-60 rate! That would be great for me!

I Called and asked them Nacho. I can give them a call tomorrow and ask them for you .

Hi,
I've been following this post with interest and emailed Tuff Stuff about the 130A alternator. Someone named Matt Oliver answered my email and told me that the alternator produces 65-70A at idle. Unfortunately no output curve even though I asked about it.
Hope this helps,
Martin

I have been running the stock Mopar alternator on our 73 440 Dart 9.5:1 since 2000. Never an issue with under charged battery and the alternator looks like it belong on a 440.

I use the Toyota Denso unit. AndyF make a nice bracket for a factory look.
Gus

That does look nice. I wonder if he had something to accommodate a 2 groove pulley in an A/C type application.

I looked, never could find anything. This linky was the best option I could come up with. Seems like 90 amps ought to be sufficient unless you've got some big power options installed?

Robert

I didn’t even ask about the curve but mine works great and they seem to have a lot of good reviews from summit. I’m glad somebody makes them in a factory square back, those GM/Toyota looking alternators just don’t look right on our Mopars.

In response to the Amp "curve", From what I have read, many seem to peak at or below 2000 rpms. I don't know if this is alternator RPM or crankshaft RPM.

^^^ with how overdriven the alts are I would assume crank RPM. but this ain't my area so I am strickly guessing/bored.

This is the power output chart on the 78 amps BeckArnley Alt I got from Rockauto several years ago. It says alternator RPMs I guess because is the only known pulley size, since is installed

Nacho - That is GREAT! I've not seen a fully graphed output for a Chrysler unit - and I've been looking. Lester # 7509 is a squareback, yes?

That is the shape of alternator outputs.
They are always in alternator/generator rpm, except the specs in the service manual. Service manual specs are for verification in the vehicle.

Lets look at the Beck Arnley test results. Really good struff in here.
RPM: Say the crank pulley is 6.5" and the Alt Pully is 2.625", then alternator wil be driven roughly 2.5 times faster than engine rpm.
Therefore idling at 600 rpm will = 1800 altenrator rpm.
& idling at 700 rpm (like with a A/C idle solenoid) will get 2100 rpm.
Big difference where it sits on that curve.

Output: "Output current tested at 13.20 volts" This is really important. 13.2 Volts is barely above battery float voltage, and maybe .4 volts above its real voltage. If the test was repeated with the same load, but voltage controlled to 14.5 volts, the current output would be lower. Most of the shop manual tests spec 1250 engine RPM, and 15 Volts. So to compare, the above test to factory specs we've been given, we need to do some math.

Turn On speed: Below this RPM the output is zero, zilch, zed. In the example using a pulley ratio of 2.5, that works out to 525 rpm.

Field current: This is what the rotor windings will draw at maximum demand, 7 Amps. That's 7 more amps from alternator to bulkhead to main splice, back through the bulkhead to the alternator field terminal, to regulator to ground. (Assuming later style voltage regulator). A good example of why having all connections in top shape is important. Of course if there's equipment to be drawing 81 amps, either there are bad connections, a dead battery being recharged, or a lot accessories... Nothing to really worry about unless there are electric fans or fuel pumps, etc.

The shop manuals I've looked at generally give field current draw for turning the alternator by hand! Something around 2+ amps at 12 Volts.

yep, is a late squareback alt with non visible stator iron, and using a diff brush isolator than earliers squarebacks, the one perpendiculat to the rotor shaft. Alt is a bit wider... It looks no more than a remanufactured Chrysler alt. Just last long a year and a half or so ( Rotor went bad ).

just like this, althought on the link says 60 amps, but well, you can read the chart on mine, spec’ed at 78 amps

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BBB-Industries-...TEAAOSwPgxVNFYw

This is the bottom of the chart card! I attached there the decals. You can read the PN. Just found bought at Clearly Auto not Rockauto ( found the return merchandise form ). I think paid something like $50-55 for it