Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Dakota rear axle "repair bearing" information needed #2390809
10/21/17 01:49 PM
10/21/17 01:49 PM
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 236
British Columbia, Canada
Old Ray Offline OP
enthusiast
Old Ray  Offline OP
enthusiast

Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 236
British Columbia, Canada
Hi Guys, I need your expertise, knowledge, and advice.

I am doing the Dakota 6 stud rear axle (1992) to 5 stud axle swap (1990). And contrary to the general perception, the early rear 5 stud 8.25 axles are not that easy to find used, at least in Canada. (they are 27 years old) The best priced new ones (Dorman 630406) are on factory back order and the other new ones ($ 228.00 ea. CDN) are expensive with dollar exchange and shipping.

I finally found two used ones on EBay in Oregon for $ 100 each (happy, happy) but of course there is some small groves from the seal and bearing wear. They might be good to use with new bearings and seals but as usual I have to over complicate things (that I latter regret, I am the only person in the whole world that does that) as I am considering axle repair bearings that include the seals. Seems to be two styles of the repair kits, one that is pre-packed with grease and sealed on both sides and one that is open to the diff oil.

Not sure which way to go or what ones to use? Help! cool

Re: Dakota rear axle "repair bearing" information needed [Re: Old Ray] #2391534
10/22/17 11:35 PM
10/22/17 11:35 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,483
Freeport IL USA
poorboy Offline
I Live Here
poorboy  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,483
Freeport IL USA
The original rear wheel bearings were open to rear end gear lube. That worked out OK until you developed a leak and the gear lube didn't reach the bearings, which was probably the primary reason for bearing failure.

I believe if I was spending the money for the saver bearings and had an option, I would get the kind that were prepacked and sealed on both sides.

That being said, the only option for rear wheel bearings on my 9 1/4 were the open to gear lube style. Gene

Re: Dakota rear axle "repair bearing" information needed [Re: poorboy] #2463088
03/08/18 02:01 PM
03/08/18 02:01 PM
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 236
British Columbia, Canada
Old Ray Offline OP
enthusiast
Old Ray  Offline OP
enthusiast

Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 236
British Columbia, Canada
Just a update for possible future searchers for info on the Timken TRP1559TV.

I installed one of the axle repair bearing this morning. The instruction sheet plainly states that “The repair package bearing is lubricated through the axle tube by differential fluid, just like the original equipment design.”

In spite of what the instructions says it has seals on both side of the bearing and is pre-lubed, ........so Riddle me this batman!

How is the gear oil to get past the seal into the bearing?

When I originally researched this on the net, a guy mentioned that he had talked to Timken and they said that these were OLD instructions.

Maybe check with your local bearing supply house, the child behind the counter could enlighten you.

It would appear to me that Timken is too cheap or stupid to replace the instructions if they have retooled the bearing!

Notes of no particular importance:
Original Dakota bearings are very tight to get out
The repair bearing is held in by the previous seal retaining recess only !!!
Rock auto catalogue does not list for this application, (Therefore no warranty) But best price, NAPA and others do list it.
The repair bearing protrudes out more. One guy on the net said that he had trouble getting the axles in far enough to install the C clips, but the one I did today worked fine.
Crappy pictures available upon request.

Re: Dakota rear axle "repair bearing" information needed [Re: Old Ray] #2463213
03/08/18 06:09 PM
03/08/18 06:09 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,483
Freeport IL USA
poorboy Offline
I Live Here
poorboy  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,483
Freeport IL USA
Old Ray, did you get the axle saver bearing with a sleeve that goes over the axle, or that shifts the location the roller bearings run on the axles? I've actually seen both types. The ones with the sleeves raise the bearing itself up off the axle shaft about 1/8".

When I replaced the bearing in my 9 1/4", a saver bearing was the only thing available. The one I had shifted the bearing to a different location on the axle shaft. Unfortunately, my axle had already had a bearing running on that part of the axle as well. I installed a different axle. When I put the axle in, I couldn't get the "C" clip in, the axle set out too far. I ended up really hitting the race hard to get the bearing back into the axle housing far enough to get the clip on. I suspect someone had left the bearing not seated fully in the housing so the bearing was running on a different place on the shaft. Maybe the slot for the "C" clip was worn, or maybe the "C" clip was worn, I'm not really sure why it was together, but I had a problem putting it back together with the new bearing, axle, and "c" clip.

Re: Dakota rear axle "repair bearing" information needed [Re: poorboy] #2463250
03/08/18 06:52 PM
03/08/18 06:52 PM
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 236
British Columbia, Canada
Old Ray Offline OP
enthusiast
Old Ray  Offline OP
enthusiast

Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 236
British Columbia, Canada
Originally Posted By poorboy
Old Ray, (1) did you get the axle saver bearing with a sleeve that goes over the axle, (2) or that shifts the location the roller bearings run on the axles?


Door # 2 smile

...............but I am majorly discombobulated bigly,.......when I took the clips out to remove the old axles the small bolt (torx head I think) that holds the spider gears big pin was hard to get at so I removed the axle bearing cap. BIG mistake, the nut that preloads the diff bearings fell out. Had to order the special long bar that sets the preload.

I am not 100 % sure that I got the locking tab into one of the holes in the nut, very hard to see for sure, the tab is flat / flush with the cap but can't see if the tab is into one of the holes AND I striped the head of the locking bolt for the pin(not the threads). Not sure how tight it was but has red loctite on it. Two opportunities for disaster ? mad HELP

Re: Dakota rear axle "repair bearing" information needed [Re: Old Ray] #2463289
03/08/18 07:54 PM
03/08/18 07:54 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,483
Freeport IL USA
poorboy Offline
I Live Here
poorboy  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,483
Freeport IL USA
The bolt for the pin should be available through Mopar, sometimes the bolts are not horribly over priced. You will probably want to get the bolt for the year of the rear end you are using, just in case they changed the thread count or something. For a lot of the older rear ends, that pin locking bolt had a 5/16" head, and I have bent 5/16" wrenches removing them. A guy is probably suppose to heat the threaded end to soften the Locktight.

As far as the bearing retainer locking tab, if its laying flat, it almost has to be in the hole. if its not in the hole, the edges will not allow allow the tab to lay flat. Just be sure the tab isn't bent so it lays flat. Gene

Re: Dakota rear axle "repair bearing" information needed [Re: Old Ray] #2464439
03/10/18 07:52 PM
03/10/18 07:52 PM
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 236
British Columbia, Canada
Old Ray Offline OP
enthusiast
Old Ray  Offline OP
enthusiast

Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 236
British Columbia, Canada
Gene, thanks for the help. I had a ophthalmologist appointment in a small city nearby yesterday and I picked a up a new Dorman locking pin at an auto parts store. As I get old I have found that if I l have to let problems ferment for a while before coming up with a possible solution. My options were to leave the pin in and take a BIG chance, get a new pin and replace it, but getting the old one out was going to be hard, I had tried vise grips on it but being a hardened bolt they just slipped, so I finally remembered about welding a nut on to the head of the pin . I had some ⅛ stainless rod and with lots of amps I surprised myself that it stuck. Got the pin out only to find out that the new was the wrong one. So either order a new pin or put the one with the nut welded on it, tried it and it torqued down fine. Good to go, I hope. Thanks again.







Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1