It was a hoax. A really good one, but crap just the same.

And, as I said at the time:
"I wonder how many cut-n-shuts he did to the original head(s)?
Slant bore spacing is alternately 3.98" and 4.00".
The 5.7 is 4.46", just like the LA.
This means if you start at the front, the #2 cylinder is .46" too far back, the #3 is .92", #4 is 1.38", #5 is 1.84", and #6 is 2.3"... hanging off the back of the block.
Even cutting each head in halves (2 chambers each), each pair of chambers (if centered) is off by .23".

Lot of welding."

Has anyone ever found a head with the same (at least similar) bore spacing? Yes, I know it alternates .020" but really a non alternating one would be fine

4.6 Ford is close.

I'm tired. Let someone else do this.

Whatever

Already been done almost 50 years ago. A guy who worked for Ford used a combination of SOHC 427 and Pinto parts to make an OHC 170. He made cam stands on the head, had a cam ground, modified SOHC followers, and used a Pinto style belt driven off a sprocket between the crank and flywheel. He also made a spacer for between the block and bellhousing. IIRC, it was in a '63 Valiant.

The motor came up for sale a few years ago. I thought Lou Madsen bought it, but it went somewhere else.

FWIW, my good motor has made real close to 300 n/a and 375 on a little spray for waaaaayyyyyy less than $10K.

I have a faint memory of a slanty race group maybe in Michigan with some of them tapping in the 10's.I haven't bought a mag in years so I'm not up on the latest.
I do have a friend that built an AWB Dodge,put a turbo on it with a big stuff 3 setup.

That pic he still is blowing through a carb.Have pic's in my archives,,,,,,,somewhere.Having over 10k images,it's getting harder to find stuff PLUS,,,,,,I have CRS!

Shades of Luke Duke.

Thanks for all the input guys. Lots to mul over. Ya, not lookin to run mid 10's. Just want to [censored] it up a bit. With the inherent limiting factors mentioned, sounds like puffing it might be one way to go. My other option might be to just do a little home port work on the existing cast iron head, up the C.R. a bit, intake, headers, cam and call it done. If I could squeeze 200 HP out of it (normally aspirated) that would be great. Ether way, I'm sure just dumping a stock SB in to it would result in more HP with a lot less $. This is my first /6 endeavor, so I'm on a learning curve at this point. On the plus side, at 112 HP, my tinker toy drive line should last for ever.