I wish I knew of a west coast distributor that I could buy their products from up here in central Oregon help grin



Amazon is loaded with it and will deliver right to your door.

You’d get along with my ex. She didn’t like it either.
That pic was taken the day i got the car out of her house after a lengthily inprisionment
It has clean oil then and now. Sae 30 wt. as has every older Mopar engine I have owned.

just a silly answer for a silly question carry on

Here's some quantitative information: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1387987/1.html

Skip to page 7 for more exact numbers. No analytic technique is more accurate than NAA.

ZDDP #s don't tell the whole story; an oil can have high ZDDP levels and still not be a great oil.

here is one that can be discussed for a while...
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Oh, Gawd... not 540rat, again.

I can tell you there's a lot of Manufacturers that think if a little bit of additive is good more is better. It's almost become who can add the most wins.. a lot of these products compromise ring seal.. and horsepower comes from ring seal..

LMAO...............

Thanks guys for the info. I need to change the oil in my car and was going to use the standard 20-50 I been using with Lucas ZDDP additive to it. I was told that since it is a detergent oil and adding the additive would cancel it out or not work that well. That is why was asking. I do push the car hard on the street so I do not want any issues. I was figuring Brad Penn or the Joe Gibbs oil or the diesel style oils. Figure diesels get worked hard but I know they changed the formula on those too and do not rev like the cars do. Still not ready to make the plunge into synthetics. I like Dinosaur oils but I know oils have come a long ways. Now the oil I just looked at picking up for my truck says Conventional/synthetic blend on it. Just seems odd to add the two together.

Forgot to add that I am running over 60 or higher psi when cold and running around 40 when warm. If I drive it this weekend depending on weather I can give exact on the psi numbers but it seems that is where it is normally when I glance down at the gauge.

A Cummins is 18to1 compression with 25 psi on top. That's why I run diesel oil in everything.😛

To all you guys that must put an additive in your oil. Do you read the tests where putting in the additive reduces the quality of the lubrication? How do you know you mixing combination is improving or degrading the lube? Why not just use a top performing oil in his tests?

Good call! My 5.9 has had nothing but Delo400 and I've seen 40lbs. of boost at times. 300,000 miles of pure bliss! Changed every 2-3K for the first 100,000 miles, every 5K since. Usually a Mopar filter but I have used Napa Gold and K&N.

True, other factors (detergents, etc.) also determine the quality of an oil. But ZDDP numbers are typically what people argue about. More ZDDP isn't always better. ZDDP concentrations over about 1800 ppm can actually do harm.

I am no oil expert, by any means. But aren't all non pure synthetic oils a synthetic blend? I mean, even petroleum based oil is not straight out of the ground. It has additives. And those additives are man-made; which means synthetic.

So, every bottle of oil on the shelf (except the pure synthetics) is some sort of petroleum and synthetic "blend".

I personally, have never seen a definition of how much synthetic additives it takes to be able to be labeled "synthetic", "semi-synthetic", or "blend" or whatever.

Does anyone here know?

Yep, and that might be considered the tip of the iceberg:
- base stocks, especially for synthetics
- HTHS (High Temp / High Shear) ratings
- where a specific oil's "cold" and "hot" viscosities fall w/in the industry standard ranges
- if molybdenum is present, and the lifespan of the copper deactivator included to offset moly's corrosive effect on copper bearings
- and other criteria of which I'm sure are important, but of which I'm ignorant

Too many legit variables, too many opinions vs facts, lots of conficting personal experiences w/ the same products...

I DO have some pretty specific likes & dislikes for oil brands and components. However, expressing my OPINIONS (even if based on facts/research I've found) won't do anything here but add to the static (used as a noun, not an adjective).

Lots of good oil on the market today and just like car wax we all have our favorite and reason for using it. I almost switched from Brad Penn several years ago because of running alcohol but instead of doing that I Researched what I could do differently. In my case I needed a lean out valve and as soon as my pass was over I now turn both my fan and electric water pump off so I build heat up going to my pit spot. Millions of quarts of Walmart oil sold every day and unless they started doing it yesterday Walmart has never produced a single quart of oil.

it seems that more often than not anymore, the better engine shops recommend Driven. instead of trying to figure out what i should be adding to me oil i just started using 15-50 driven hotrod oil in my street cars. the cost difference between that and something else with a bottle of additive just isnt that much.

This topic always gets the most attention on here and many other sites
Sitting at a screen sifting through chemical test and numbers --ugh!!

I have built a LOT of engines for decades now--I have raced for over 30 years
I have worked in engine shops most of my life and so i have seen a lot more than the average guy

What I have learned

Different applications require( or do better) with certain oils
Like super stockers running 0w20 or alky cars liking 20w50 or like nitro cars using 70 wt
This is why makers like Driven have twenty plus different oils

You get that part right then go with what you can source easily--what you can afford---I run alky/nitro mix and change oil a LOT so I am forced to use an oil I can afford that still works and it is not a "boutique" oil

I have used the highest spring pressures I have ever run on a flat tappet and used Amsoil-- was just amazing when lifters and cam lobes were inspected--the best I have ever seen Period

I have run Valvoline race oils for years and again--zero issues ever

I know the driven products are probably the most advanced products on the market each designed for specific applications with exactly what that
application needs

I have had excellent results with Brad Penn and with alky it is fantastic

Amalie line up is some of the most used on the NHRA trail and fantastic with exotic fuels and...they offer an easy to get on "plan" for any racer to have oil shipped directly to your home or delivered at any NHRA event--These guys make good stuff and support racers of any level not with free but with real discounts

I race with another alky dragster guy that runs the Walmart brand cheapo stuff in a pretty darn fast car with zero cooling and guess what?? His bearings and parts look fine and keep on keeping on

I think if you have oil in an engine you are good--if you run a flat tappet you need an oil with some ZDDP or else I truly think this is the one deal where you must run some Known good stuff that has been proven

I also think that on street and bracket stuff who really cares that you loose a few HP with a 20w50 that proves again and again that it works in most anything

and....Lucas is making a 30 wt and a 20w50 high zinc break in oil that has been working great for us lately and is cheaper than all the others so