http://rehermorrison.com/tech-talk-98-oil-is-everything/

I think this guy is a pretty smart fellow...

What the heck do you want for proof Brad. You know the guys that race and the guys that don’t.

Some people swear by brad penn... I know of at least three people using it, where the cams went flat.
What works great for some, will not work great for all.

Nothing wrong with Bradd Penn. I have used it many times when low on funds. I have also used valvoline vr1, good stuff, but i get the Bradd Penn for $5/qt. When funds are good i use Amsoil. Im not a racer, but engines dont get babied either and i will not buy the cheapest oil at the corner store.

You should know as well as anyone that just because someone races doesn't mean they know squat about oil... or carb tuning... or engine maintenance... or ... well, you get my point.

I'd be more interested in hearing from engine builders than engine abusers on a subject like this.

One "d" in "Brad"

OK, back to my hole while the rest of y'all hash this out (again...)

I moved on to Driven (Joe Gibbs) oil. Lost 2 hydraulic flat tapped cams with Valvoline VR-1.

I have used them all Valvoline, Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn, Torco, Amsoil and LAT.
This is my ranking:
1.) Joe Gibbs
2.) LAT
the rest are tied and all good oils.

Flat tappet cams are a tuff deal. I recommend hyd rollers anytime I'm asked to do a flat tappet. It's always about the cost but in the long run one flat cam and the hyd roller pays for it's self.

No offence to anyone but if you have to put a additive in your oil it's not the right oil.

Well, I was about to move to the 10w30 VR-1 until I read that. Guess I'll stay with the 20w50 that I have been running for years. Is this a case of 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'?

I have been using 20w-50 VR-1 and a small bottle of ZDDP+ that I buy on ebay on every oil change on my 440 solid flat trappet cam engine, and just VR1 20W-50 in my Hemi with a roller cam.

I guess I will continue to use that unless, someone tells me of something better?

Mark

Read the interesting linc and that guy knows a thing or two. Think i'll stay with the 20/50 as well.

With the all the flat tappet cams going flat could some of it be from to much spring pressures and not necessarily oil???

Redline Oil here. Elixir of the Gods!

I look at it this way. I build all my own engines and have for many many years. I have also been a Brad Penn (Kendal) user for those same 40 plus years. Oil as we know it has changed over the years and so has the quality of the metals used in our cams and lifters. Now throw into the mix I run alcohol and we all know the issues with that. (water moisture). Now with the 650 lift solid lifter cam and higher spring pressures that I run adding a bottle of additive and EDM lifters is cheap insurance. I have no issues running my engine for 3 years between engine freshen jobs. Wrong oil? I don't think so but what do I know. Hopefully when I freshen my small block next time I will grind my R3 block so I can run roller lifters and I will sleep even better at night.

15-40 Delo 400

What oil should i run?

Clean oil.

by the looks of the car on your post I would say clean oil would not be necessary

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned Schaeffer's Racing oil. I know most on here are either drag race or street/strip guys, but round trackers swear by it. A lot of these racers are limited to flat tappet cams (no rollers). I also know a bunch of large engine drag racers that use it with great success

Brian

Schaeffers make some excellent gear lube for transfer cases and drag race rear ends
The only problem I know of with the drag race gear oil it is 250 Wt. Which means you need run the car on jack stands for 2 to 5 minutes to warm it up before pulling into the lanes to race
My Son in Law use to work for a ski resort in SO CA maintaining all their track vehicles, they used Shaeffer brand lubes only in all of their vehicles from the general managers SUV to all the big snow cats, he was amazed that none of their lubes would not mix with the water(from condensation) in the snow cat transfer cases or engine oil, the water would drain out first and then the oil or lube would follow
I wish I knew of a west coast distributor that I could buy their products from up here in central Oregon