I've looked around and can't find a aluminum pump with 8 vanes, and a built in cavitation plate. Does anybody make one? I'm not looking for a flowkooler type.

summit racing. although I believe theirs is only a six vane.

Edited for attitude

You might try talking to Stewart Components and see what they have, their catalog doesn't seem to be working but their LA pump is nice.

They make 10 vane marine pumps...

Napa 42032 is the 8-vane type I believe.

This is an interesting read on water pumps for RV's...

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=737.25

Not aluminum

No anti-cavitation plate

and the list grows

Looks to me most are 8 vane.
So now the 'list' is shrinking.

Nope, the req was an aluminum, 8 vane, with built in anti-cavitation plate. If it doesn't hit them all it is a fail.

the list stays the same.

Maybe there's a reason nobody offers the anti-cavitation plate.

There are several 6 vanes with a anti cal plate. I'm looking to up grade. Guess I could get a Mildon, which has 8, and add a plate.

next option would be an overdrive pulley and run the six vane. its harder to put the anti cavitation plate onto a big block pump. it has to got between the impeller and the water pump casting.

I have a 383 A/C pulley, but somebody said it wouldn't line up with the rest of my pulleys.

as far I know, at least from factory, AC cars got 6 vanes with small pulley, and non AC got 8 vanes with big pulley.

that is what I would do & get the pulley to spin it as fast as you can tho finding a pump pulley with the dia in your wanted range (~6") AND having the right depth for pulley/belt alignment ain't gonna be (too) easy.I would do the rest of the system: shroud/fan with many blades/fan spacing in the shroud/stiff lower hose or hose with a spring/proper timing/proper A/F ratio/good high flow stat, 180F or higher/good/clean 3 core radiator as wide a one as possible.

8 blades is not necessarily an upgrade from 6 blades. All depends on what speed you run the pump. If you look at what the factory did with the pumps you'll see that they didn't want to run the pump to fast or use too many blades when the pumps ran fast.

The rest of the system is up to snuff, the pump is the only thing that I didn't know anything about, it was already on the engine. It is an aluminum 6 vane with an anti cav plate. The pulleys are brand new, and are of the Hemi variety, so I don't want to buy a hole bunch of new stuff.

Is it running hot right now? (with what you have).

Or you could just pony up the coin and buy an edelbrock pump and call it a day. For engine driven, that is the pump.

It will run 210/215 on a hot day. I know everybody says that that temp is ok, but I have the rad off for some other things, so I thought if a pump upgrade would lower it a few degrees, then I would give that a try.

You might consider lowering your antifreeze blend from 50/50 to something like 30/70 or 40/60 (more distilled water) depending on how cold it could possibly get in your area. There are freeze protection charts on a lot of antifreeze bottles and 50/50 goes to -34F. More water cools better.

Add a little Water Wetter (maybe 1/2 bottle) along with your increased water blend.

Maybe use some engine degreaser & power washer on the radiator's outside while it's out & you can get at the whole thing. Maybe flush the cooling system too before putting in your new coolant.

if you're running 210/215 on a hot day and its not climbing over that you are fine.

basic setup you should have a shroud on rad with a large clutch fan that is engine driven, 16lb radiator cap on rad. if you really want it brought down, then you need to be able to dissipate heat faster. more flow won't help necessarily if the radiator cant remove the heat. so at that stage you need a big 2 core aluminum rad. does the temp go up our down as you drive? if you drive and temp goes down, then you need more air flow through your rad. electric fans might help.

Three core aluminum Champion radiator, Milodon 160 degree high flow stat, cheap OEM aluminum water pump and twin Ford Contour electric fans. Hold my 512 stroker at 180 degrees on the hottest of summer days. Would go cooler if I set the controller lower.

OEM A/C set-up on a '71 Ply B-body...

Including A/C water pump w/180 thermo...


Years of extreme driving conditions...

Including a lot of summer putt-putt in traffic...


NEVER gone past 180...

I have all of that covered, I was just wondering about the water pump. If anybody made one with 8 vanes, and an anti cav plate. Looks like they don't, so I may try to make my own.

Before I re-did the engine, I was at 210 all the time, too...


Lots of casting 'sludge' in the coolant passages when I pulled it down...


Two 'dips' in the hot-tank, and some righteous scrubbing with the gun cleaning brushes took care of all that...


Didn't know about 'burn and tumble' then, or I would've went that route...

is that around town or on the highway? & the reading is confirmed with a good mech gauge. Any overheating symptoms other than what the current gauge is showing (& I ain't saying 210 is critical).

That is on the highway, and around town, after the engine gets good and warm. The reading is taken with an inferred thermometer at the thermostat housing, or the factory sending unit

What are you building that some of these previous posts won't help you???

All I asked was, if anybody knew of a 8 vain pump with aaa anti cav plate all ready installed.

Don't forget the Aluminum requirement!

And You're So Vain, you probably think this thread is about you, don't you?

8 vane.

All good LOL

Yes, and there is also the blue vain meat roll.

This might apply: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/robert-foleys-426-max-wedge-powered-1963-polara-overheats-gonna-fix/

I read this post before ordering a Milodon #16260 high volume pump which I received yesterday. To my surprise it has a welded anticavitation plate and 6 vanes. The op also described his current one as a 6 blade with the anticav plate. For reference the pump has 'GMB' and 'CR20' cast on the front.

GMB pumps have a good reputation, so i wouldn't have any worries about running that pump.

This is a "for what it's worth"




A few years ago there was a fellow on B-body's only forum that was bound and determined that he was going to re engineer Chrysler's cooling system.He spent weeks doing what he thought was better,never accomplished anything but wasted time.He finally got beat up enough on the forum that he finally left and never came back.Every car I have ever owned (a lot),modified or not had/has the factory cooling system working as it should and have "never " had a cooling issue under any condition.Being old,I will stick with what worked for me for over 60 + yrs.

And its aluminum. Has everything the O.P. ask for except the 8 vanes.