Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 10 of 34 1 2 8 9 10 11 12 33 34
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2440603
01/25/18 04:22 PM
01/25/18 04:22 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4 Offline
master
rowin4  Offline
master

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
So that pump unit replaces the original fill plug?


it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: mopar65] #2440608
01/25/18 04:30 PM
01/25/18 04:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
A
AndyF Offline OP
I Win
AndyF  Offline OP
I Win
A

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
Originally Posted By mopar65
Originally Posted By AndyF
Power knob!

Actually that is the fill port. Just big enough for a funnel or a nozzle on a gas station pump.


Looks like a great set up Andy. Did you get the 450L pump and did it come with the Fuel line fittings?


Yes, I got the 450L (110 GPH) unit. The fittings were not included.

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: rowin4] #2440610
01/25/18 04:32 PM
01/25/18 04:32 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
A
AndyF Offline OP
I Win
AndyF  Offline OP
I Win
A

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
Originally Posted By rowin4
So that pump unit replaces the original fill plug?


Yep. Just unbolt the old twist knob and drop in the fuel pump. Took me about 20 minutes to do it. It is a really slick setup. I think it is a great idea.

DSC_2065 (Large).JPG
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2440935
01/26/18 12:24 PM
01/26/18 12:24 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,237
north of coder
moparx Offline
"Butt Crack Bob"
moparx  Offline
"Butt Crack Bob"

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,237
north of coder
Originally Posted By AndyF
Originally Posted By rowin4
So that pump unit replaces the original fill plug?


Yep. Just unbolt the old twist knob and drop in the fuel pump. Took me about 20 minutes to do it. It is a really slick setup. I think it is a great idea.


that is a neat setup ! and the "power knob" is a very necessary item to have. i wasn't paying too much attention [as always] to the installation location in the cell.
beer

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2441861
01/28/18 12:37 AM
01/28/18 12:37 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
A
AndyF Offline OP
I Win
AndyF  Offline OP
I Win
A

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
I'm trying to figure out the best place to mount the engine so I rigged up a locator with a 10 ft piece of tubing. There is a bushing in the tailshaft and bracket on the front of the block that centers the tube in the main bores. Now I can see if the engine is square to the frame and if it is pointed at the rear end. I'm also in the process of locating the rear end so this helps with that. It will also help me get the pinion angle dialed in.

DSC_2102 (Large).JPGDSC_2105 (Large).JPG
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2441863
01/28/18 12:39 AM
01/28/18 12:39 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
A
AndyF Offline OP
I Win
AndyF  Offline OP
I Win
A

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
I also decided to go with coils on the valve covers. (at least for now)

I had some brackets machined up and now I'll get the wire dimensions over to Custom Wire Rick. I think this will work out pretty good.

DSC_2099 (Large).JPG
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2441888
01/28/18 01:11 AM
01/28/18 01:11 AM
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 566
Texas
R
RustyM Offline
mopar
RustyM  Offline
mopar
R

Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 566
Texas
Thank you for posting the info and pics Andy- very helpful .

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2441919
01/28/18 01:42 AM
01/28/18 01:42 AM
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,131
Thigh-Gap Junction
@
@#$%&*! Offline
New user name, Same old jerk!
@#$%&*!  Offline
New user name, Same old jerk!
@

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,131
Thigh-Gap Junction
Originally Posted By AndyF
I'm trying to figure out the best place to mount the engine...



The TTI web site has specs on where they think the engine should be when using their headers. It's usually the headers that cause the most trouble.
twocents

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2441920
01/28/18 01:42 AM
01/28/18 01:42 AM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,262
New York, USA
Chargerfan68 Offline
pro stock
Chargerfan68  Offline
pro stock

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,262
New York, USA
Yes. Thank you Andy. I also always enjoy seeing the progress on your projects and the innovative ideas you put to use. Coming along nicely


1.50 60Ft. , 10.75@ 127MPH Hauling 3900 LBS.
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Chargerfan68] #2441977
01/28/18 02:44 AM
01/28/18 02:44 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,779
Mt.Gilead, Ohio
OhioMopar Offline
master
OhioMopar  Offline
master

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,779
Mt.Gilead, Ohio
Originally Posted By Chargerfan68
Yes. Thank you Andy. I also always enjoy seeing the progress on your projects and the innovative ideas you put to use.

x2


1969 Dart GTS 340
1969 Super Bee X9 N-96
1969 Coronet R/T X9 N-96
2015 Dodge Dart GT
2019 Ram 2500 Big Horn.
Looking for the original block for my Bee. The last 4 are 7449
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: @#$%&*!] #2442217
01/28/18 02:18 PM
01/28/18 02:18 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
A
AndyF Offline OP
I Win
AndyF  Offline OP
I Win
A

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
Originally Posted By @#$%&*!
Originally Posted By AndyF
I'm trying to figure out the best place to mount the engine...



The TTI web site has specs on where they think the engine should be when using their headers. It's usually the headers that cause the most trouble.
twocents


Right, I know where TTI wants the engine but I still need to make sure it is straight in the chassis and that the rear end is properly aligned. Sliding a tube thru the main lines makes it very obvious if the drive train is aligned or not.

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: moparx] #2442273
01/28/18 03:42 PM
01/28/18 03:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
A
AndyF Offline OP
I Win
AndyF  Offline OP
I Win
A

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
Originally Posted By moparx
Originally Posted By AndyF
Originally Posted By rowin4
So that pump unit replaces the original fill plug?


Yep. Just unbolt the old twist knob and drop in the fuel pump. Took me about 20 minutes to do it. It is a really slick setup. I think it is a great idea.


that is a neat setup ! and the "power knob" is a very necessary item to have. i wasn't paying too much attention [as always] to the installation location in the cell.
beer


Here is what it looks like in the car. I need to finish the plumbing and the wiring but this gives you the general idea of how it will look.

DSC_2106 (Large).JPG
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2442287
01/28/18 04:13 PM
01/28/18 04:13 PM
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 566
Texas
R
RustyM Offline
mopar
RustyM  Offline
mopar
R

Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 566
Texas
dang Andy- I think just seeing your bolt bins would be an adventure worth talking about!

Always such nice, clean, well thought out work.
Oh that I could do so well!

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: RustyM] #2442809
01/29/18 12:07 PM
01/29/18 12:07 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,237
north of coder
moparx Offline
"Butt Crack Bob"
moparx  Offline
"Butt Crack Bob"

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,237
north of coder
Originally Posted By RustyM
dang Andy- I think just seeing your bolt bins would be an adventure worth talking about!

Always such nice, clean, well thought out work.
Oh that I could do so well!


you and me both ! up
beer

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2443239
01/30/18 03:41 AM
01/30/18 03:41 AM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,256
Salisbury North Carolina
8secDart Offline
pro stock
8secDart  Offline
pro stock

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,256
Salisbury North Carolina
AndyF take and cut the flanges on the headers. Leave the 2 center tubes together and put a slip on collectors. Makes life so much easier. Can get the starter on and off with just removing 1 tube. Trans will come out with just removing 2 tubes on each side. Really makes it worth it.

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2443243
01/30/18 03:44 AM
01/30/18 03:44 AM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,256
Salisbury North Carolina
8secDart Offline
pro stock
8secDart  Offline
pro stock

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,256
Salisbury North Carolina

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2444244
01/31/18 09:22 PM
01/31/18 09:22 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
A
AndyF Offline OP
I Win
AndyF  Offline OP
I Win
A

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
It has taken me a long time but I think I'm finally ready to tack the spring perches to the axle tubes. When I got the car the rear end was bolted in place but the perches were loose. I had to get the car put together far enough that I knew where the engine was located and what the angle was so I could get the rearend in the correct location.

I had the engine mounted up a couple of months ago but then the headers arrived and they didn't fit so everything had to be moved around. If I was a chassis builder I'd go broke since I move so slow on this stuff. I suppose some of it is just experience and tools. I have to stop and build jigs or fixtures when ever I try to do something so that slows me down a bunch. Anyway, looks like I'm ready to nail down the engine position and the rear end position now. The 10 ft length of roll bar tubing thru the main bearings really helped me visualize how it fits together.

DSC_2123 (Large).JPGDSC_2120 (Large).JPGDSC_2126 (Large).JPG
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2444444
02/01/18 02:20 AM
02/01/18 02:20 AM
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,363
Cotati, CA
Dave Hall Offline
top fuel
Dave Hall  Offline
top fuel

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,363
Cotati, CA
Thanks for taking the time to share the build! Keep going! Looks great!

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2444572
02/01/18 12:53 PM
02/01/18 12:53 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,237
north of coder
moparx Offline
"Butt Crack Bob"
moparx  Offline
"Butt Crack Bob"

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,237
north of coder
Originally Posted By AndyF
If I was a chassis builder I'd go broke since I move so slow on this stuff. I have to stop and build jigs or fixtures when ever I try to do something so that slows me down a bunch.


don't feel bad andy, i'm even slower than you ! i have many, many fixtures and jigs for my humpback, from suspension parts to bushing and cover fixtures for the steering column, and everything in between. that's part of the reason it has taken me 40 odd years to now on this project. and i have a nasty habit to over analyze things. a lot. keep up the good work ! up bow
beer

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2446347
02/04/18 05:30 PM
02/04/18 05:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
A
AndyF Offline OP
I Win
AndyF  Offline OP
I Win
A

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
Well I finally figured out how to make the rear shock plates with the tabs for the Calvert bars and the double shear shock bracket. It took me a few tries to get it right but eventually I came up with a fixture and the correct laser program. Now it looks like everything is in the correct place and it all fits and should work. Getting all of this stuff fabbed up is a big step forward for me.

DSC_2135 (Large).JPGDSC_2136 (Large).JPGDSC_2137 (Large).JPG
Page 10 of 34 1 2 8 9 10 11 12 33 34






Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1