This is my W200, 4wd.

Found some slop in the front ball joint on the drag link. Can these be rebuilt, or am I stuck getting a new one?

Unfortunately I don't have time right now to take it all apart, just to figure out they aren't repairable.

Thanks!

hoozie, what year is the truck ? ronnie

It's a 72. I could have sworn I put that in the original post.

It looks just like this one from rockauto.

I don't feel any circlips on the backside of the balljoints, so I'm not sure if they can be removed and replaced. I also haven't found any listings for replacement BJs, or anyone else online repairing them.

So I just dropped the front joint, along with the pitman arm.

The drag link doesn't have any real slop that I can feel, though it is clunky, and I can move it around by hand.

I did find almost 1/16" of rattle on the end of the pitman, from slop inside the box. The rattle is still there with the engine running, and in the middle and ends of the rotation.

The box was rebuilt by Benchworks ~4 years and ~3k miles ago. Apparently it's worn out already?

Hoozie, you can build one using the tie rods from a 95 B350. I've done it, can't recall right off if I used the driver or assenger side assembly. I must be from a van with the 4000# front axle. Some trimming f the sleeve and the threaded ends t get it short enough.

Note 92 D250 with 4000# axle might be shorter but I don't think the one tie rod has the slight bend needed.

Advantage here is now replaceable ends and adjustable length

Very interesting. Thanks!

Quit your griping and learn how to adjust your steering box. It isn't hard to do. Steering boxes are not complicated to adjust.

R.

You're right, they aren't.

This was supposed to be a rebuild that was a few steps above a parts store repaint. So I didn't think it would be loose after a couple thousand miles, so I asked about the drag link which is the only steering part I haven't replaced in the last few years.

Are you checking the steering box lash with the box in the center of it's travel?

Note this isn't necessarily where the front wheels are straight ahead. With the drag link disconnected cycle the box lock to lock then come back to the halfway point before checking lash.

This is where the adjustment of the drag link helps, you can have the box centered AND have the wheels straight ahead.

Correct, I was checking the lash with the wheel centered. The lash was also there at each end of the rotation too.

That does make sense about being able to adjust the tie rod so the box (and wheel) are centered, and the wheels track straight. I'm pretty sure this is really close to correct, but I'll check it when I dive into it again.

I don't think there's a master spline for the steering wheel on those trucks, so just because the steering wheel is straight doesn't make the box centered.

Most steering boxes are designed to have a little less lash in the center of travel vs the ends that's why they should be checked and adjusted on center.

I have an 80 Ramcharger I'm working on, someone adjusted the box wrong and you can feel it bind up as it goes past center