I'm running an 8 3/4 rear end, cleaned inside thoroughly, Torsen diff w 3.91's, Moser axles & Dr Diff econo disc brake kit.

I'm getting a noisy passenger side bearing again after only a few thousand miles. I changed both bearings the last time I had this noise, and it was quiet for 3-4 thousand miles. Gear oil is filled to proper level.

I'll check the axle runout at the flange this week. Would a bent housing cause this?

Obviously it's not the bearing, as it's a repeat occurrence, the bearing is suffering the results from another cause/component...

What were the wear/failure points of the bearing in question...

If your returning the same rim/tire to that side of the axle have you checked it for run out on and off the vehicle

How's the bearing's dry fit in the axle housing before being assembled on the shaft, bore show any signs of the bearing spinning/galling?

Did you remove the thrust block from the differential?

Probably isn't helping the bearing if the housing is bent
Check it with a couple of carpenter squares, one on each side with a helper and a tape measure and measure as far out as you can to the front and rear and then up and down from the flanges
I bent a early B body housing pretty badly in my old pump gas Duster, the axles (originally the left side and then the passenger side got really bad the more I raced it :shock ) where really hard to slide in, I had to use a block of wood and a hammer to drive the passenger side in before the right side ladder bar bracket finally broke off
Do both of your axles slide in okay?
Let us know what you find

Just wondering are Green bearings made for street use or for track use?

both...

Probably designed for drag racing only back when originally designed and sold
OP, I put a set on a Dana 60 rear end years ago (1970 35 spline axles) that was driven on the street and the inner retainer came loose and let the axle slide out of that bearing until the tire touched the outer wheel lip
Same thing happened to another Dana 60 that was in a drag race only car at the track Both of those where the first type Green ball bearing axle bearings for Mopars offered back in the mid 1970s, I have sold, installed and used the newer ones like Dr. Diff sells now with no more problems
The early ones had the retainer molded onto the bearings, the later, better, ones don't The retainer is not captured on the bearing and the later ones have a retainer ring on the outer bearing race on the axle end to locate the bearing in the housing on all the newer ones I've used in both 8 3/4 and Dana 60 regardless of axle size or spline count

Thanks!

Yep, but a factory bearing would most likely forgive the bend.

I would think that if the housing was bent, you would have odd tire wear issues too. You did not say if axle or housing are different from stock, other than you added disc brakes to rear? My only rapid green wear problems myself was from axles binding against the button in rear, so I remedied that and all was well.

Don't overlook the axle being slightly bent. A bent axle would cause a vibration and that green bearing is being shaken to death. It wouldn't take much.

One clue is your callout of a Torsen differential. I wasn't aware that there were ANY Torsen differentials made for the 8 3/4.
There are TrueTrac gear-type differentials available now. It is possible that whatever differential you do have in there is pushing sideways against the bearing. Maybe the axles are too long?

I seems the axle being too long and loading one side bearing axially is more likely than problems arising from a bent hou

I'd suggest getting together with DoctorDiff or another knowledgable rear end person to diagnose your problem.

R.

I likely called the diff the wrong name. It is in fact, a TrueTrac.

I'm elbow deep in upgrading and rebuilding the front end of my pick-up, but will check out everything using the tips suggested above.

Thank you to all those who offered suggestions and techniques to figure out what is going on. I very much appreciate your knowledge and time to post. I'll post the outcomes of the inspections as soon as I can get to it.

There can be a problem with the 8 3/4 true trac, the side gear on some have a lot of play in them allowing the axle to move a lot, it can wipe out the green style bearing, jack up car & grab the wheel top & bottom, see if you can move the wheel, ie slack.

Exactly! This is what Cass was telling me this morning. I was on the phone with him for 1/2 an hour. I grabbed the wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock and it moves as if the wheel is turning left and right.

I hope putting in one of Cass's new Blueprinted Suregrip diff's eliminates this wheel bearing issue and leads to the elimination of the high speed vibration I have been experiencing for the last several years. The driveline is smooth as silk until 95 mph and then a serious resonating vibration begins and increases with speed. It resonates through the entire car. My pinion angle is optimum, tires balanced and I thought I would never figure this out.

I remember back even 20+ years ago that green bearings were not the best choice for street use. But they can be used if they are checked often. They do not have the side thrust rating as the OEM roller bearings.