The two biggest killers of flat tappet cams, outside of lifters not rotating is slow idle speed and low oil volume at idle. The cam is lubed from oil grown from the rods.

The same thing kills adjusters and galls rocker shafts.

In the OP's case, he's using EDM direct oiling lifters.

Oil pressure had nothing to do with the result here.

I read that. I've never used them. It would seem that if the volume of oil was down, it would also be down with the lifter oiling.

Compared to splash oiling, the edm lifters provide a ton of oil to the cam.

Even at 10psi there would be plenty of oil....... And it's a constant, uninterrupted supply.

it had 20 psi at Idle, 40 @ 3000,before all this it had 55 @ 3000

All the stock Mopar V8 blocks I've built had a ton of lifter to block clearances, no need for EDM lifters in my opinion

I know of enough instances of using the schubek/tool steel type lifters on cast cams where the outcome was the same as yours that I'm comfortable in my assumptions that it had nothing to do with oil pressure.

There was a point in time where I felt this approach to solving the problems with flat tappet cams wearing out in street driven vehicles had some merit, but I've seen enough of them, and know of enough others, where I no longer feel that's the case.

As Oldiron stated, his motor showed no symptoms at all from this happening to his cam.
The motor was getting freshened, and it was discovered during tear down.
Since there is only "wear" at the nose of the lobe, and no wear on the lifters, it doesn't even change the lash.

I checked lash every 1000 miles & there was no change, I have not pulled the engine out yet, I have found some things, the oil pump shaft bushing was very worn & sloppy , also found that the oil pump shaft was to long, it bottomed out in the oil pump keeping the drive gear about .050 from sitting down on the shaft bushing.The oil pump looks very worn & scuffed ,cam bearings look squished out also

As I said above you had some cam thrusting going on for some reason but what do I know. A diagonal line on a cam edge to middle can’t be a good thing. My days of running mushroom tappet cams taught me to really pay attention to that area. I hate looking at posts on my phone except for pictures that I want to examine closely. It really lets me zoom in.

Most flat tappet cam failures fall in to four categories. 1. dirt. 2. improper break-in procedure. 3. wrong and/or inadequate lube. 4. parts mismatch. In your case I believe it is #4 and possibly #3. It is not too often a manufacturer problem when you really start to look in to what caused the failure. In the long term, going to a roller won't fix any of those problems. BTW, #1 leads the pack by a 1/4 mile!

To my knowledge, there are no P55 cores available for the BB mopar, and the OP's cam wasn't nitrided.

Which lifter would you use with a solid flat tappet cam made out of 8620 alloy (= roller cam material)? Can a tool steel lifter be used?

Ben from Howards cams asked me to send him my cam & lifters to see if they can come up with an answer, Howards cams makes a Quality product & have always been very helpful to me, I will let Y'all know the outcome.

I'm in Dwaynes camp on this one. I dont think anything Howards provided was at fault here. I think it was an unknowingly ( not criticizing you, just what it is) mismatch of parts and specs.The tool steel wasnt probably a good choice here, even though it " seemed" like better would be, well, better. You had several issues at play here, but I dont believe it was 1) oil, 2) the cams fault. I think the " fracturing" idea is dead nuts on.The wear doesnt look like the normal " wiped out cam" deal, which is usually way sooner as far as mileage goes.Regardless, its all mute now, as your not heading in that direction with the new stuff.best of luck on the new deal..onward and upward.

I agree with you, I REALLY appreciate all the input from everyone, this is a costly mishap [ mistake]
Thank you Dwayne !!!!!

Ok
So im a victim too
Always used brad penn and checked lash
So whats the hot ticket
Hydraulic roller or solid and whose ?

I like using hydraulic rollers for street/strip engines. I’ve never had a problem with the Hughes hyd rollers and the Hughes hyd lifters. It’s around 800 - 1000 bucks more to go roller but much better than pulling your engine apart to fix a flattened lobe on a flat tappet cam.

No 2 ways that a roller will make more power (usually). Unfortunately, flat tappet cams get a bad rap when there is a flat tappet failure when it is often not the cam / lifters fault. If you are in to a mild to moderate street/strip build (OP), flat tappet stuff works great for a lot less $. Built many in the .600+ lift range with no problems. Maybe I'm just lucky.

I feel both flat tappet and roller cams have their pluses and minuses.
You just have to decide which fits your program/budget best.

I still sell plenty of flat tappet cams.