I'm attempting to take a set of rear disc brakes from a 2003 Dodge Dakota (12.25" rotors!) and put them on the rear axle from a 1998 Dodge Dakota

I say attempt because I've run into a problem.

the axles are not the same! they welded the flange onto the axle tube in different spots

(see pictures to illustrate--click on link in thread title for full size pics)

This picture is the 2003 axle, the flange is 5 cm from the end of the tube

This picture it's only about 3" from the end...this axle was originally drums.

Can I simply grind the welds on the back side and re-weld this flange further back? what are the risks I run into if I do that? I only have a 110v mig welder with flux core wire (I know, I know, I need to get it set up for gas, but I haven't gotten around to it yet, and so far, ugly splattery welds have not been a problem because I haven't done any body work yet)

by the way, the brake caliper bracket bolted right up! in fact, I didn't notice the problem until i put the axle back in and the disc wouldn't seat down all the way!

am I better off to relocate this flange, or leave it alone, and cut a notch out of the caliper bracket so that it's a C shape, and can slip over the axle and bolt on from the back of the flange? if I do that, it looks like the bracket will be 5cm from the end of the housing...


(This pic shows the cleaned up, painted, "restored" caliper bracket from the 03, bolted onto the 98)

I would check it out with the disc in place to see
if it all lines up the way you think it should be,
but I believe you can do what your thinking but I
would tack it with your welder then take it to a
place that has a real welder and have him burn it.
Your putting toooo much on a little 110 welder

Ok, so, grind the welds, mock it al up, then tack it in place, and get a real welder.

so much for bolting on a set of rear discs in an afternoon!

Why couldn't I be lazy like everyone else and just swap the whole axle. all this time I've been telling people it'd be easier to open the diff up, pull the c-clips, swap everything over....

the other thing that's funny is the 1998 and 2003 Dakota's look identical! 99% of the parts are the same! (except for the engine change from the 3.9/5.2 to the 3.7/4.7...oh, and the bigger, better brakes!)

Also...brand new wheel bearings...will they take the heat? or am I gonna have to drop another $50 into bearings and seals?

a little OT here. is this a 8 3/8 or a 9 1/4 rear? what eliminates the endplay when when assembled ? thanks......

Any other opinions? things to look out for?

How level does the bracket need to be? if it's rotated a few degrees from how it sits now, as long as the caliper bleeder is highest part of the caliper, and the bracket for the parking brake cable line up...is that all I need to look out for?

I spec'd out a Durango rotor and it's 1 Cm thinner than the Dakota rotor, (but none were in stock) if the parking brake hub is the same diameter, just not as deep, it MIGHT be enough to get it to seat on the axle flange, and clear the rear dust cover--if so, and the caliper still has room to slide, would that work out ok, or should I stick to grinding and re-welding? (i'm just not looking forward to grinding on that weld...it's probably hard as a rock, and I'm worried that my angle grinder could eat into the tube or flange a little bit as I try to get all of the weld removed.