Re: Alt bat to Starter bat bypass wiring
[Re: p d'ro]
#2366890
09/07/17 12:02 PM
09/07/17 12:02 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
|
Pete, a welding supply shop or likely any mechanical shop could crimp some good ring terminals onto a length of wire for you for cheap & I'd have em solder it too. EDIT as you know it will render the ammeter inaccurate. Just me I would keep it as is & clean ALL terminals/connections including ground paths & do Nachos' bulkhead bypass & one guy was adament on using a 30 amp plug in fuse, one of those colored plastic ones with the 2 male plug in lugs & to keep spares handy in the main line to the bulkhead from the battery. advantage is they would blow instantly if there is an issue & when when my '66 dart full fielded the FL didn't even do its job & go open & the wires were melted/shriveled from the excess amperage.
Last edited by RapidRobert; 09/07/17 12:15 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: Alt bat to Starter bat bypass wiring
[Re: 71vert340]
#2366979
09/07/17 02:54 PM
09/07/17 02:54 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
|
I think I'll leave the bypass wire hooked to the ammeter and just install a fuse or fusible link in the red wire bypass. Should it go between the battery and the starter relay or should it go between the relay and the ammeter? it would have to go between the relay/ammeter (like it was OE) cuz if it went inbetween batt to relay the high amp flow from batt to relay to starter when cranking (if I am reading this right) would blow it instantly.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: Alt bat to Starter bat bypass wiring
[Re: 4406bbl]
#2366987
09/07/17 03:06 PM
09/07/17 03:06 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889 up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
|
About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
|
Need more ideas, drill a hole in a cheap pair of pliers, smaller than the crimp, smackem with a hammer. A dull chistle and a hammer works too. 5 gallons of gas and a match will fix your electrical problems forever, too. Neither is the proper way of doing.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question. They say there is always the exception that proves the rule. Don't be the exception.
|
|
|
Re: Alt bat to Starter bat bypass wiring
[Re: p d'ro]
#2367053
09/07/17 05:06 PM
09/07/17 05:06 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
|
master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
|
I think an air ticket from Venezuela to MD is not lot expensive LOL
check what you have at this moment then take your decisions... untill that you are working over an unknown stage
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
|
|
|
Re: Alt bat to Starter bat bypass wiring
[Re: crackedback]
#2367054
09/07/17 05:07 PM
09/07/17 05:07 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,584 MD
p d'ro
OP
pro stock
|
OP
pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,584
MD
|
I make those on a regular basis.
8ga wire with a 12ga fusible link. Around 35 delivered in most cases That seems fair. I will let you know after I dig around under my hood this weekend. If I have a low 35 amp alternator would this be too thick of a fusible link? I am hoping I have a 50-60 amp but am unsure what it came with. Will check part # tonite.
|
|
|
Re: Alt bat to Starter bat bypass wiring
[Re: Supercuda]
#2367059
09/07/17 05:12 PM
09/07/17 05:12 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
|
master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
|
Need more ideas, drill a hole in a cheap pair of pliers, smaller than the crimp, smackem with a hammer. A dull chistle and a hammer works too. 5 gallons of gas and a match will fix your electrical problems forever, too. Neither is the proper way of doing. that's what I would call a GOOD IGNITION SYSTEM!!! LOL
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
|
|
|
Re: Alt bat to Starter bat bypass wiring
[Re: NachoRT74]
#2367154
09/07/17 08:21 PM
09/07/17 08:21 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,584 MD
p d'ro
OP
pro stock
|
OP
pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,584
MD
|
I think an air ticket from Venezuela to MD is not lot expensive LOL
check what you have at this moment then take your decisions... untill that you are working over an unknown stage Ah, Venezuela. My good friend and old man baseball team manager is Luis Aparicio lll, son of the Sox and Oriole great and hall of fame shortstop. Great Venezuelan. I have what look to be relatively good condition bulkhead connectors. I did not pull off as I wiggled and squeezed and did not want to break anything. Should they just pull off with coersion? The battery positive has two wires, one to starter and one going to a firewall post. From this two go away thru firewall and under dash. One powers stereo and the otherone disappears into a maze. Another goes to lowest bulkhead connector. So I do have accessories powered off bat. Is this firewall post stock??
|
|
|
Re: Alt bat to Starter bat bypass wiring
[Re: 71vert340]
#2367157
09/07/17 08:45 PM
09/07/17 08:45 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645 Phila. Pa.
Mattax
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
|
Terry - this gets confusing because its two different issues in one thread, but I'll try. ..I noticed to red wire lug to the ammeter was cut off. .. a 10 gauge red wire from the battery to the one post of the starter relay. ... On the other post of the relay, there's a red wire (10 gauge) running from the relay through the cowl to be connected to the ammeter, completely bypassing the bulkhead connector block. The only problem is there's no fuse anywhere in it.
From this I get: 1 Ammeter is not being used 2. Battery is hooked to a terminal on the starter relay 3. A 10 gage wire is attached to a different terminal on the relay and goes through the firewall but is not attached to anything. Yes? If so, identify what each terminal is on the relay. I was going to hook the original red wire up to the ammeter but after reading several posts on this, I think I'll leave the bypass wire hooked to the ammeter and just install a fuse or fusible link in the red wire bypass. Should it go between the battery and the starter relay or should it go between the relay and the ammeter? This is confusing to me. If the ammeter is not used there still should be a wire that connects the battery to the main junction. It doesn't matter if it goes through the firewall or the connector. It must have a fusible link. Take a look at Charging system operation and see what matches up.
|
|
|
Re: Alt bat to Starter bat bypass wiring
[Re: p d'ro]
#2367171
09/07/17 09:14 PM
09/07/17 09:14 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645 Phila. Pa.
Mattax
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
|
P d'ro In your first post you talked about a bypass. But in other posts you've mentioned a problem and also I am trying to keep stock and do not have many accessories, just a few gauges. I still have a stock alternator of unknown amperage for 67 rt 440. Considering the situation, first solve the problem. Look at the diagrams, look at your car. Is there anything wired in from the battery to the ammeter? There should be nothing. Ah! I see you have found there is stuff. This may be the source of your problem. To understand why, take a look at the drawing showing running with the battery fully charged. Draw in some equipment attached to the battery or starter relay and you see what happens. The question remains whether any of that is the reason the current follows rpm., then there may be a bad battery or something like that. It also could be the voltage regulator is getting bad information (its not sensing the actual voltage). To check that, you'll need a voltmeter. Measure voltage at the Ignition wire side of the voltage regulator. Compare that with voltage at other locations (battery). It also could be that the voltage regulator has failed internally and Field current is not controlled. Maybe Nacho can speak to this. But for example if the alternator gets more voltage the alternator output will be higher voltage than the battery can float to. So electricity flows from the altenator thats say 16 or 17 volts to the poor battery at 14.5 Volts. Eventually the battery gets too hot and looses water... When I get my deoxit in mail I will pull bulkhead connectors and see how they look and clean. If required I may have to buy the crimping tool if any male or female ends look suspect. I live in the dc metro and we do not have things like welding shops, radiator shops, muffler shops, etc. unfortunately. Again, I will have to think about keeping the ammeter and going the MAD direction or simply running the jumper if I see evidence of heat. Good to have options. Cleaning terminals is great. You will not really see the crimped ends unless you remove the terminals from the connectors. In your situation I would leave them in place unless they are loose or have obvious problem. If you don't have a multi-meter - that is the tool to buy! If you bypass the ammeter, you will lose an useful diagnostic tool. I don't see a reason for it in your situation, especially with everything staying stock. If you drive at night, a headlight relay system is worth considering. You'll have to hide the relays to keep it stock. (Rob who posted about making you wires, can make you the relay harness.) But this is off - topic. First figure out what is happening. One last one. It is possible the battery is just simply too low in charge. Again a voltmeter will indicate this. In which case the battery just needs enough water and is allowed to charge slowly. A battery charger or letting the car idle. Here's the catch, this is the one that plagued Nacho. If its because the alternator can't charge it at idle and the car idles alot, then sooner than later you need a better alternator. In this case the battery is getting drained just by running at idle. The ammeter will show this. Its mostly a problem when accessories (heater, lights, and maybe worst is A/C)
Last edited by Mattax; 09/07/17 09:25 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Alt bat to Starter bat bypass wiring
[Re: p d'ro]
#2367184
09/07/17 09:30 PM
09/07/17 09:30 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645 Phila. Pa.
Mattax
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
|
I have what look to be relatively good condition bulkhead connectors. I did not pull off as I wiggled and squeezed and did not want to break anything. Should they just pull off with coersion?
Each connector has to have the plastic latch on top and bottom gently unhooked. Then wiggle while pulling. Take your time. The battery positive has two wires, one to starter and one going to a firewall post. From this two go away thru firewall and under dash. One powers stereo and the otherone disappears into a maze. Another goes to lowest bulkhead connector. So I do have accessories powered off bat. Is this firewall post stock??
Probably not! Each bulkhead connector location has a letter designation in the shop manual diagram. Might be able to tell you what was supposed to be there by the location and wire colors.
|
|
|
Re: Alt bat to Starter bat bypass wiring
[Re: Mattax]
#2367201
09/07/17 10:05 PM
09/07/17 10:05 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,584 MD
p d'ro
OP
pro stock
|
OP
pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,584
MD
|
I have what look to be relatively good condition bulkhead connectors. I did not pull off as I wiggled and squeezed and did not want to break anything. Should they just pull off with coersion?
Each connector has to have the plastic latch on top and bottom gently unhooked. Then wiggle while pulling. Take your time. The battery positive has two wires, one to starter and one going to a firewall post. From this two go away thru firewall and under dash. One powers stereo and the otherone disappears into a maze. Another goes to lowest bulkhead connector. So I do have accessories powered off bat. Is this firewall post stock??
Probably not! Each bulkhead connector location has a letter designation in the shop manual diagram. Might be able to tell you what was supposed to be there by the location and wire colors. Ok, both god to know. I will try to unhook and wiggle free. I assume I will leave the post and connections as it has been good for 10 years.
|
|
|
|
|