So going cw from the original hole made it worse, I think that's the wrong way, cause it instantly started backfiring out the exhaust and wasn't happy about running.
So now I'm pulling it back out and am going to make a new hole ccw from the original hole.

just (3)

So that distributor sent me to bed tonight feeling totally defeated, I feel like I got my ass kicked by that thing.
I gave up, I tried a hole behind the original hole on the reluctor I bought at the parts store and it wasn't happy with it because of some of the teeth being longer then some of the others I think the reluctor teeth were smacking on the pick up coil post.
Not 100 percent sure, I just heard it making a strange noise around the distributor that changed tone with the timing.
So I grabbed the original reluctor that came on the firecore distributor, picked a different tooth that hadn't had any drilling done on it yet, went about 15 degrees ccw from the tooth.
Put it back on dropped the distributor back in the truck and started it and it's running rough as hell hardly wanting to idle, i shut it off and slammed the hood and said [censored] you im done.
So first thing tomorrow morning Rick ehnerberg is getting 35 dollars of my hard earned money for one of his reluctors and I'll have my fingers crossed that it works.
The closest I can this weekend to having the rotor properly phased was when I shared the photo of it being a little too far forward from the cap terminal, after that it all went to [censored] and I started having problems drilling straight holes into the reluctors and having problems getting the roll pins to go in the slots that I drilled, hearing strange noises from the distributor with the part store reluctor and then having the truck not even wanting to idle after a long a new hole.
It was just a total ass beating with that truck winning by knock out in the first couple rounds.

You're probably just seeing how the mechanical advance springs work.

Yes reclock the intergear. stick a large screwdriver in the slot & twist it CW & see if it will rise up & over the teeth (1) notch then let it fall back down. If it is real tight you may need to use two thin stiff pieces of wire with an L bend on the ends to get it up off of its seat. things are tight in that area.

its a combo of the intergear notch/dist lower shaft tang rotational slop and or the springs. if you are not twisting hard enough to get into the springs then it is all intergear slop. it does cause spark scatter at idle when timing it (spark jumping) & it it indicative of a less than a spot on perfect eng but might be left alone as is for now. People have reportedly resolved it with a 1/2" ID setscrew collar slipped on the shaft but I would rather have my welder build up the tang for a dead on rotational rather than the axial solution with the collar fit & seperately, further up, adding shims above the plastic collar with the roll pin to reduce the lower shaft axial play to .005". speedway mtrs has a kit of dead flat thin shims for $10.