So the fact that this is a thread allows you to be OK with assuming?
Assume - Ass (out of) U (&) me. Please leave me out of it.
You assumed cast crank. I assumed nether. If you needed more info, then ask the thread starter. Don't wait. It's your prerogative to continue to assume if you wish.

On the reply of needing or not more stroke, how do you know we need more? We're now ignorant because of what we're happy with? LMAO! Now who is ignorant with assumptions.
Really dude!

Moving on......

What's wrong with the Scat cranks? Links that read available?
No cast crank links please since there not of any concern or part of the topic beside the assuming. I was never talking about them.

What does your house have to do with the asked question of the thread starter.
Stop patting yourself on the back. Really!?!?! Bragging about a 1100sq/ft house?

You are certainly "Some kind of Special" so I leave this to you since I haven no experience with this "Special" you have and do not want to get beat over the head with your long winding road of experience.

Thanks a ton.

Moparts rocks in many ways but its an odd little community as is the mopar world in general.



If you look at other sites, like speedtalk, even the bullet and fabo, and many others they are helpful to get a look at things concerning builds from a much broader perspective then from the 10 or 15 of us that post here.

Not saying anyone one here is wrong but in fact are some are very knowledgeable in some ways but we all tend to think our way is the best/only way.

Rob C,
You missed the humor in my post.
You missed the sarcasm in my post.
You drug out the old cliches.
Thanks, now I know what I'm dealing with, so explaining that smaller rod journals make for an easier installation and a lighter rotating assembly would be a complete waste of time on you, hopefully not the OP.


Let me dumb it down, just for you. If you REALLY want a fast car, you will find a way, even if that includes living below your means. If you aren't willing to spend 700 bucks on a superior product, you're in the wrong hobby/sport period.

LOL, to try and get this thread back on topic...What is the difference in the BPE 428 stroker kit and the otherwise "standard" 408-416 kit? I have a 360 LA block sitting in the corner catching dust and may be in the market for a stroker kit soon. Also, as long as we are talking stroker, does a 5.9 magnum block make for a better stroker block?

The Scat kit, which is over 2K from Summit, has 2.125 rod journals, and features a 6.123 I beam rod with a 2.125 big end and .984 small end.

The Bloomer kit, (I paid 2306 4 year ago), has 2.00 rod journals, and features a 6.200 H beam CompStar rod with a 2.000 big end and 9.27 small end.

The smaller, longer rod, and smaller journals fit in the block easier, allows for a lighter piston (custom built to Your specs.), and a lighter rotating assembly. Even if the cubic inches and torque output were identical, the Bloomer kit is a better value, and a better product. The cubic inches and torque curve are not the same.

Cool, thanks Billy, as to my other question, if any, are there cost/strength/durability, etc, differences between the LA 360 block and the 5.9 block?

For the 400-500 difference, that is a no brainer.
Lighter, and those compstar rods are sweet. I ran them in my W5 motor for years.

It is hard to detect humor and nearly impossible for sarcasm. If that were such, then perhaps a smiley face afterwards would help.
What old cliches?
Actually, you haven't the slightest clue who or what your dealing with or the knowledge, years of experiences ... But you do expose yourself well. After all, it is obvious you know everything.

Would you still care to answer me questions or are you just going to continue to evade them?
Don't bother to dumb it down for me but for certainly for new guys to the field would benefit from simple explanations.

The amount of money spent of a superior product is of no worry to me at all. BUT it may be an issue to someone else who can not afford the higher ticket price. Via your line of thinking (the incredibly thin veiled insult towards me.) Many people should give up there cars because there wallets aren't as deep as yours. People who run, hot rod or race a /6, 273, 318 or 360 engine should hang it up because they don't meet your level of Financial commitment? By not stroking the engine to your level? Of what you think is good and should be done?

Who died and made you GOD?!?!

Your statement is probably the biggest turn off for people in the hobby, looking to get into the hobby, and stay in it. It says if you don't spend the extra money that "I, MoparBilly deems as mandatory for a real good engine worthy of speech without being belittled, stay home and sell the mopar!

It says don't talk to me about your ridiculous and pathetic engine.
It says don't talk to me about your ridiculous and pathetic paycheck.
Is it don't talk to me because you're ridiculous and pathetic because you're not on my wavelength.

And throughout this whole you still can't answer the simple questions that were asked to you. All you're doing is throwing [censored] to see what sticks. I have been with you, nothing is going to stick. If you don't have what it takes to make something stick.

And after all of this you still haven't helped the original thread question. Just cast doubt. It seems that is all your good for in this thread.

Whatever Billy, whatever...

The Philosophy of building stroker engines:

0. Increasing the stroke is nearly always the most optimum way to increase engine size, in terms of cubic inches per dollar.

2. One strokes an engine to increase torque. Torque is what we seek for that "planted in the seat" feeling.

3. As we admit we're building the stroker for more torque, we remember Chuck Senatore's words,"Build the biggest shortblock you can afford." This makes sense. Why limit yourself in your effort to increase torque? Why not build the largest shortblock that you can afford, that has acceptable durability?

4. Bloomer recognized that the LA motor has enough room in it for larger stroke, if you decrease size of rod journals. NASCAR engine builders are making 900+ hp from 355 engines running at 9000rpm, for two hours straight, and they're doing it with 1.889 or 1.850" rod journal. So skipping down to a smaller rod journal on a street engine makes sense. The 2.00" early SBC journal isn't very small, really, and there are a million bearings available for it.

5. So if you cannot afford the 4.125 or 4.250 stroke, build what you can afford, probably the 4.000 stroke. Sometimes that extra $400 IS impossible to get. There's always tomorrow!

R.

Rods kit are less money then the 4 inch stuff out there all his parts are top of the line products to me its a win win deal

You folks are not remembering the op said mostly street and really imo many overbuild but it is a good argument on the balance costs of some.

Ive got both a 4.125 motor and a 4.250 motor, the 4.250 in a race block which brings up the oem block block part with that crank and good heads.

My 4.125 is a K1 and the 4.250 is a older dragon slayer I think.

Isnt rods kits a knockoff of the K1 crank, ect. not that it matters Ive never heard anyone hurt one. But there are many good companies that produce stroker kits.

I myself think its far more important to get the proper parts for the application as well as good machine work and stay away from known parts that fail.

Oddly my worst stroker kit was a K1, like I got seconds all across the board and they sent the crank out to pittsburg crankshaft for balance and it was wrong.

Just as odd, my street racer at the track runs 6.04s with a old eagle forged kit, h beams, cheaper bolts and pro comp heads but in a race block and all test fitted by a really good machinist out of Atlanta.

But really one a real tight budget the 13-$1400 balanced scat kit is really nice for 550hp and under.

The main thing is to make it as fun overall as possible, the day things start to suck things just go down hill from there.

A really well matched 4 inch cookie cutter is plenty for many in a street car. Harder to hook good with a 4.250 build.

But it was noted that the cylinder head being used "had" gone 640hp.... now are we to believe the op wants settle for less? ....or are we trying to meet/beat that goal? A lot of this reminds me of my first RB stroker. Hindsite being what it is I should have scraped some more coin together and just did it right the first time.

How many off the shelf pistons are there for a W2 head? If you're looking at a custom deal anyways you may still have the extra cubes at an affordable level.

They were on a different 408 and made 640 hp.

Yep my mistake, da, thanks!

Pretty sure Rod carries the ' cookie cutter" 4 inch arm kit as well, not just 4.125 and 4.250 kits.

Good questions and notation Jbody.

From the author;

"They were on a different 408 and made 640 hp. I don't want to get as crazy, but don't want to kill it right away. It will be used in my pro street satellite, mostly street, but some 1/8 mile passes"

This, to me, suggests the use of forged rotating parts would be the route to travel.

Food for thought & consideration, as well as a question. What was previous HP level in what size engine you drive how long ago in what car? Equipped with what size cam, trans, stall, gear, tire size?

This answer would paint a picture of what was. Helpful info?
Possibly.

Then there is the important question of;

Where do you want to go with this 400+ cubic inch W2 headed build?
What power level? If you can put a finger on it that is.....
500, 525, 550 hp?
Or how fast ET wise you want to travel at!
This maybe the toughest question for some to answer, for others, EZ as pie.
Knowing the cars equipment, trans gear suspension etc.... would help a lot.
When all this info is in, well the idea can come together a lot quicker.

From what I am hearing here.. he wants to use
this for a street car and want to run some
1/8 mile stuff... if this is true in a heavy
B-body he WOULD like the long arm stroker
stuff but at that weight he will need all the
help he can get to be quick.. my SB was making
625HP in a light car.. I ran low 9s.. when I
built the 405CI W-9 I only added a few more HP
but ended up running high 8s.. the big thing was
it ran the numbers all the time.. again.. a light
car.. yes they are plenty of guys that make more
HP but I really didnt need it to run what I did

Jay,
4 inch arm in a race car...certainly, and you have the heads to flow at whatever RPM you choose to make power at. Street car is where the longer arm really shines.

Rob C.
You are embarrassing yourself really, but by all means if that makes you feel better, go ahead.

I posted an invoice, If you carefully read that invoice, you will realize that Rod Bloomer's kit includes a custom Racetec piston. Bore, ring pack, how far in the hole, dish, valve reliefs ect. To fit YOUR needs. Name a cookie cutter 4" kit that does this and show me the price. The forged crank Scat kits from Summit are $2036. Oh, that's right, YOU determined , "How good Rods kits are, are not in question or up for debate."

Who died and left me god??? I'm not the guy who has tried to moderate this thread and tell everyone else what they can and cannot post from the fifth post on. That would be you. Other than telling people what they can and should post you have not added a single amount of pertinent info at all.

You state that you can't figure out my humor or sarcasm without imojis, then you try to interpret my statements about a short block as an attempt to belittle others? That's a stretch, even for you.

The fact that you think I'm the "deep pockets" guy on here is laughable, and shows you know nothing about me. I've ran simple, budget friendly combo's since day 1.


Rapidus,
I have no experience with the magnum blocks, other than the one that went 239 K in my truck.

The last car I had together was a 73 dart with a well built, but basic 440. It probably made an honest 500 hp but not much more. The torque was great, and as stated earlier, that's what feels good on the road. I have no real crazy goals of speed. If I ran it in the quarter in street trim I'd be very happy to be anywhere in the 11s. This engine will eventually be replaced with a big block turbo build. I was guessing forged internals but wasn't sure. Knowing that 550 hp is the limit on the scat crank, really solidifies it for me. I don't mind spending the extra money because I'd rather not wipe my butt twice.

My W2 416 is 10:1 with a 4" Eagle crank. It has a big roller in it and if I didn't already have that 4" crank I think a 4.125 would have been better for it for all the reasons Billy mentioned.

I haven't used a BPE kit but they would for sure be on my list of vendors if I were to do another rotating assembly. I do not know what Molnar offers for rotating assemblies but I do know his customer service is good. We have his Rods in the 416 and they are a nice piece.