I'll have to weigh it when I get a chance. This unit is 55-3/4" long.
68' Coronet with no engine set back or push forward rear.

Because of you guys I am having http://www.supershafts.com/ weigh the steel shaft and the new aluminum one he will have done by the end of the week.
I want to get the car done in time for Carlisle!

My 74 Challenger 360 4-speed driveshaft was a hair under 17lbs, my aluminum shaft was exactly 12. Both have yokes attached.

Are those balancing rings close to the ends of the aluminum shaft or welding beads for the end caps?

I know, was wondering what was up and looks likes it's pieced together............A first...........

Looks like billet ends with tubing welded in the middle.

If it is a pieced together unit, it must have been a challenge to spin balance it for all RPM levels.
I do know that there are amazing balancing and welding capabilities these days by various shops.
Aside from real world costs, supposedly carbon fiber shafts that are the lightest are a no-no for a street car being that rocks and foreign objects bouncing off of it could make itself shred prematurely.

Great thread!!

How hard was the aluminum hood to make? How thick was the material?

I'm running at the moment, but in short, it was created in baby steps because I did not want to ruin the virgin aluminum sheet. I had attempted a couple of times before I found the right cat to bring in the troops of a power hammer, English wheel, Martin hammers and dollies along with his expert tig welding. I couldn't weld myself out of a popcorn box.

I'll have some photos with a full recount of the hood very soon to be seen for the first time. It was very primitive at first and then it started to take shape.
The scoop itself built out of frustration that everyone was laughing me off stage or simply that no one was making it at the time (AFX 10/15 Hemi Dragster style) was actually a specimen from the dark ages. Explanation later as well.

It was 3003 grade aluminum which is both weldable friendly and takes to shape forming easily. The gauge was .o25 IIRC. I'll have to look in my notes from way back.

You would not believe how I have made some of these parts in the most craziest ways with a rock on a hard place.

Kajesus! Time to reinstall some weight around here. LOL.
More to come soon, but not before I finally get the scales slipped underneath to see where it all stands.

FMJ, I did about the same thing. But I Turned the block upside down and painted it. I assumed it would have the same weight savings as turning the can upside down. LOL
ANYTHING to lose some of the paint weight. LOL

LOL.

Remember fellas, no underwear, no socks, shave and fast the night before you intend on going fast and you'll be at your lightest on the line.

Here's my friend Haze's two projects ongoing. One in the background is a feather from the factory and slated for some drag duty and the other in the foreground will be the more civil and a little on the heavy side version.
Curious as to their both weights, especially the 62'sedan.

I have not been to area "53" just yet! But I was at the Jackson hole.....
I have a list of fasteners I wish to replace with aluminum.I can reference some of the hardware with the picture above.The 10 bolts that hold the top of the fender to the inner well.The 8 bolts that hold the bumper brackets to the chassis.
I have been told to look at Mcmasters which I have not looked.The question I have is what material aluminum should I be looking at?? When I picked up "O"ring cord from Fastenal,they could not tell me what their aluminum hardware is made from,what grade,,,,,notta.

Looks great and when it runs as good as it looks. WATCH OUT..........

Install your self a belly plate to protect that alloy pan from pancaking on launch.
McMasters is your number one local resource for the aluminum and some limited Titanium hardware.
Look no further than 2024-T4 aluminum bolts. Even some of the low grade material is okay, but can not take the little extra tightening torque that the 2024's can. You are only carrying about 45-50 pounds of fenders with about 8-10 bolts, so not so crucial, but for safe keeping, get the 2024-T's.
Get yourself some anti-seize to smear on the bolt threads before you install them.
Using the originals, make a list of their lengths and thread size to make sure you have the right size bolts in the mail. you can even cheat the length by a few 16ths to save a few more ounces.
I can look at my notes and get back to you before I leave town so that you order the right stuff. It would pretty much be the same for all other car models in the Mopar camp, so keep a peep guys for future reference.

For any other out of the way or custom bolts that the Mad scientists out there other then myself want made in either titanium or aluminum, look no further than Met-Tec in Carson city, Nevada. They know their stuff and do a lot of stuff for Midget racing and Formula one.
They have so far made every complicated bolt that I sent to them. Star treatment and excellent work. Ask for Kevin Pemberton.

Fender bolts are 5/16-18 and 3/4 inch long X 20
Rear bumper bracket bolts are 1/2 inch coarse and 1.5 inches long, 4 of them.
Front bracket bolts need 1/2 course,2 inch long with nuts,,,,also X 4.

That System One oil filter looks like a garbage can.

And there you go.
Looks like that hamster wheel is ready to be installed in the nest bowl. Lot lighter than it was before.