Re: Altenator
[Re: 70RR383]
#2319325
06/11/17 10:53 AM
06/11/17 10:53 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,050 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,050
Niles , Ohio
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We run Summits chromes in ours.One in my 65 is IIRC 78 amps.They were under 100 when we bought them.Ive run mine for at least 10 years.On the 62 we just ran a solid state reg with a 65 round alt.It powerd my kids big stereo etc.Always charged good.My 65 I converted to the new style reg ald alt.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Altenator
[Re: 70RR383]
#2319608
06/11/17 11:30 PM
06/11/17 11:30 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889 up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
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About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
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the 114A alternator will bolt up only if you use the unique to the 114A alternator bracketry. It will not bolt into the smaller capacity alternator bracketry.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question. They say there is always the exception that proves the rule. Don't be the exception.
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Re: Altenator
[Re: BDW]
#2319754
06/12/17 09:58 AM
06/12/17 09:58 AM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889 up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
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About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
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Good info, you saved me from ordering wrong, thx! So is there nothing larger than 65A that is a direct bolt-in and <$100? The 87 Diplomat/truck 78A unit is a direct bolt in.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question. They say there is always the exception that proves the rule. Don't be the exception.
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Re: Altenator
[Re: 70RR383]
#2319866
06/12/17 01:38 PM
06/12/17 01:38 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,089 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,089
Valencia, España
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mids 80s are rated as 78 amps although some of them gets up to 85 amps. These are JUST A BIT WIDER, maybe couple of mm, which makes a bit tight to fit into a big block. They also come with the smaller pulleys available.
Consider upgrade the wires up to ammeter to save ( as mentioned ) the bulkhead weakness. Althout once upgraded the alt, this could be a problem JUST on high loads demands which IS NOT NECESARILLY put by the alt allways, but cover yourself on that, in case on a batt weakness due a discharge for whatever reason.
( when money comes enough will jump to a 100 amps tuff stuff alt... or maybe 130, dunno. )
Last edited by NachoRT74; 06/12/17 01:42 PM.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Altenator
[Re: 70RR383]
#2320171
06/12/17 09:24 PM
06/12/17 09:24 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,089 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,089
Valencia, España
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Is the one I'm using ( by now )
Run a parallel path between alt and amm throught the firewall. Then to batt.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Altenator
[Re: BDW]
#2321021
06/14/17 11:25 AM
06/14/17 11:25 AM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822 Colorado
denfireguy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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I see posts here from guys who rebuild transmissions and engines who are scared to death of rebuilding an alternator. Rebuilding your own core assures that the cases match, the date codes are correct, the pulley is correct and the workmanship is good. For round back get a set of bearings and this electrical kit: http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoho-7014.aspxFor square back, bearings and this electrical kit: http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoho-7015.aspxThis will get you 105 amps and a correct alternator. On the round backs, the only tricky part is soldering the diodes in. Make sure the connections are clean and mechanically tight. If you can find some, use rosin core silver bearing solder. Regular rosin core will work but silver is better for heat tolerance. This was the first rebuild project on my first Mopar. My 62 Valiant stumped the local mechanics in the small town I where I was going to college. When they could not fix it they recommended I convert it to a generator. I thought that was stupid and found two open diodes on the back of the alternator. I replaced them all and the brushes as well and reassembled. That was in 1966. The rebuild lasted the life of the car. Craig
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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Re: Altenator
[Re: denfireguy]
#2321438
06/15/17 02:12 AM
06/15/17 02:12 AM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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I see posts here from guys who rebuild transmissions and engines who are scared to death of rebuilding an alternator. Rebuilding your own core assures that the cases match, the date codes are correct, the pulley is correct and the workmanship is good. For round back get a set of bearings and this electrical kit: http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoho-7014.aspxFor square back, bearings and this electrical kit: http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoho-7015.aspxThis will get you 105 amps and a correct alternator. On the round backs, the only tricky part is soldering the diodes in. Make sure the connections are clean and mechanically tight. If you can find some, use rosin core silver bearing solder. Regular rosin core will work but silver is better for heat tolerance. This was the first rebuild project on my first Mopar. My 62 Valiant stumped the local mechanics in the small town I where I was going to college. When they could not fix it they recommended I convert it to a generator. I thought that was stupid and found two open diodes on the back of the alternator. I replaced them all and the brushes as well and reassembled. That was in 1966. The rebuild lasted the life of the car. Craig Thanks for the links. I have rebuilt alternator and a starter before, but I did not know where to get an upgrade kit? I do have the C8313 adjustable regulator on the Charger.
Last edited by 451Mopar; 06/15/17 02:16 AM.
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