An ok to nice camera and GOOD LIGHTING - Andy's been doing this a while and you cant have crappy pics in books

I could teach you everything I know about photography in less than 30 minutes!

Here are some more photos. This is a new design I just finished up where I put the Ford Explorer cam sync sensor on the back of my Jesel belt drive. On my dry sump engine I don't have an oil pump drive so I can't drive the cam sync in the distributor location. So I just mounted the shutter wheel on the back of the belt drive distributor and put a housing around it to hold the sensor. This gives a nice clean way to get the cam signal.

Wow that looks great.

Very innovative and well photographed.

It took a while but I finally got some of my new cam sync units built. I sent one off to Rich to see what it looks like on his scope and I have another one mounted up in my 514 for some dyno testing. Turned out to be a nice little unit which doesn't take up much space at the front of the engine.

Looks great!

Thanks. I'm working on getting my 514 converted over to EFI and up and running on the dyno. In the process I'm learning a lot and designing a bunch of new parts. I have a few more parts in the design loop right now. I'll post pictures as I get the new designs sorted out.

All real nice parts. really like the rear mounted cam sync on the high mount dist. Killer stuff as usual.

Rich spun the cam sync on his scope and reported a nice clean waveform so it looks like we're ready to fire up the engine.

Cool, so it is a 5 volt sensor as used on a OE car, and it looks like it was tested at 12 volts.(5v/div) Guess that answers my question about being able to use it with either ref voltage. Nice work.

Here is an expanded view of the falling edge. Rich was checking to see how clean the edge signal is.

Looks as good as you would need with any system. That sensor must have a resistor in it, and would probably be even better with a resistor calibrated to 12v. I bet testing the sensor at 5v would show an even sharper drop. I don't think any system is looking for drops measured in nanoseconds!

Ok, Andy and Rich,

I want to buy Two (2) of your trigger wheels...one for my Hemi, and one for my RB 440.

I want my engines to start right up, without having to turn over a half dozen times.

Rich or Andy, please send me a PayPal invoice.

Thank you, Mark

PS, I have the MSD flying magnet wheels, and yours look like they are an EXACT replacement.

The Holley EFI harness that I'm using drives the crank and cam sensors at 12 volts. However, Holley also sells harnesses that drive the sensors at 5 volts. So I guess you just have to pay attention to that if it matters. From what I've seen, most of the aftermarket sensors work up to 20 volts. Not sure about OEM stuff, it might be less tolerant.

The Ford Explorer sensor that I used seemed to work just fine at 12 volts. The crank sensor I used was from Holley and it is rated for 8 to 20 volts.

I have a batch of trigger wheels out for plating right now. I'm not set up on paypal but if you want to send me a check or a money order I can handle that. Shoot me a PM if you still need a Mopar bolt pattern 36-1 trigger wheel. I also have BB Chevy bolt pattern wheels if you are running a Chevy bolt pattern on your damper.

If you are currently using a MSD flying magnet setup then you'll need to switch sensors. Holley sells a Hall effect sensor with 3/4-16 thread that will screw right in place. If you are using a Holley EFI system then you will also need to reconfigure your ignition setup to 36-1. My trigger wheels are marked with TDC and 7th tooth. So just put the engine at TDC firing and then move the sensor so it is lined up with the line on the 7th tooth and your ignition should be close enough to fire up.

Here is what the trigger wheel looks like at TDC. The pointer is at TDC and so is the tooth with the dimple. The sensor is pointed at the 7th tooth after the gap. The 7th tooth has a line on it to make it easier to identify when you are bending over the fender. If you set it up for the center of the tooth then you'll need to adjust your timing by a couple of degrees depending on whether you pick rising or falling edge. Once you know which way you are going then you can set the sensor to the correct edge of the tooth.

I should point out that the double o-ring design worked just fine with the 12 inches of pan vacuum that I was running.

The Ford Explorer sensor is a sealed unit and by putting an o-ring under it the entire housing was sealed tight. So that was a good thing to double check. I didn't have the capability to test it at a higher vacuum level but I might be able to do that next time out.

I sent the first batch of trigger wheels out to be nickel plated. I think they turned out really well. The nickel plating is fairly expensive but it looks really nice and it should last for a long time.

I just put mine on in place of the MSD trigger and it fit perfectly. I enlarged the holes for the 3/8's bolts but that's about it.

EFI Dart,

After converting to Andy's new 36-1 Trigger wheel, did you notice any difference in quicker starts (less cranking)?

Also, any other "seat of the pants" differences?

Currently, I have the MSD flying magnet wheels with the Holley Hall effect sensors like you had.

Thanks, Mark

I have 36-1 wheels in stock if you still want to buy one. I have both the 3 bolt BB Chevy wheel and the Mopar wheel on hand. Just PM me for info. The dealers like Mancini and Hughes haven't gotten these parts into inventory yet but Rich at FAST Man Efi will be a dealer for my stuff going forward so you can buy from him. Nice thing about buying from Rich is that you can get tech help from him as well as access to other EFI parts. Up to you......