I'm helping a with a cam swap in his
'67 Newport.Car is bone stock,67k on the original motor,516 heads,single exhaust with manifolds,2.76 gears & currently a 2bbl.but will probably change to a 4bbl.
I was thinking a #10230700,112* /.454 lift Lunati flat tappet Voodoo cam or the summit 6400 114* /.444-.466 lift cam.Something to work with the low compression.Any other recommendations or personal experiences with these welcome!
Thanks,RT

Heavy car, tall gears, moderate size engine is going to work best with a smaller cam. OE was ???200-203 degrees intake duration @ .050". The Voodoo is 208 degrees and Summit 214 degrees.

I do not think that combo will like more cam.

If gears are changed to 3.23 or 3.55, dual exhaust and 4 bbl then yes more cam will help.

As it sits now, best bet IMO is stick with the stock cam.

A really good tuneup, starting with check/correct of TDC marks on the vibration damper would help more than more cam IMO.

Increasing stroke to 3.75" or more and dialing in quench and CR would really help... especially with long gears.

I have had two Newports, a 68 and later a 66.Both daily driver 4 door cars. Both were low compression 383's with stock in. &ex. manifolds, stock torque converters and 2.76 or 3.23 gears.I have had 625 a.f.b. and 600 Holley vac. sec. carbs on them. The actual compression will probably only be at 8.0:1 even with the closed chamber head. My last one was only 7.8 with an open chamber 906 head. I have used 3 different cams in these cars. First was a Cam Dynamics(Crane)266 energizer. 210@.050 with .440 lift 110 lobe sep. A Crower 260H.D.P 260-267 dur. 212-216@.050 with .456 & .476 lift 112 lobe sep. Third was a Crane powermax 260-272dur. 204-216@.050 .427-.454 lift.112 lobe sep. I liked the single pattern Cam Dynamics grind best. All idled smoothly and pulled to 5000-5200 r.p.m. well, but the Energizer had much better off idle and low r.p.m. power. I attributed this to the tighter lobe separation. They claim a tighter lobe separation will limit the width of the powerband, but make more power in the low to midrange. My advice with stock heads would be to ignore the lift number and pick a cam with the tightest lobe separation and a .050 duration under 210 to 212 degrees. If I had to pick one out of all the cams we have both listed I would use the 266 Energizer. Be sure to check to see if the stock pushrods have the small radius tip on the lifter end. If they do just find some 68 & later pushrods(cheap works fine)to go with the "standard" lifter seats in your new lifters. P.S. If you really want to have some fun with one of these old boats, throw on a 800 D.P. Holley and a 125 powershot nitrous system.It was a cheap sleeper in the 1980's. The carb and nitrous system cost more than the car! Quickening up the ignition advance curve will help a bunch as well.

Thanks for the replies guys.I'm sure the 4 bbl. will be added soon,most likely during the cam change.Exhaust and possibly gears aren't out of the question either.This is a clean 4-door that needed an intake gasket...so,while it's open! The cam is not wiped out,but does show some wear,that's why we want to swap/upgrade it.Engine tear down and stroking are not going to happen at this point.It is just an occasional driver,and the engine seems to be tight mechanically. Howard's cams has a .434 lift,206/208 duration,110* cam in their American muscle series,that may be a good option with your advice on a tighter LSA (67_Sat).Basically a stock HP replacement cam.
RT

That cam sounds like a good choice.That package will need all the low end torque it can get.

That's the plan,wanting to improve a bit on the stock setup while we are there.Nothing radical at all!

What you are looking for is an Isky 262 Supercam. 0.435 lift, 108 centers, 208 duration at 50.

Now where does one find one of these? Couldn't say. But this sounds like the one perfect fit.

R