Yup. I am already a customer of Rich and Trendz...both are great help, and great to buy from!

Mark

Rich and I are testing a new solution. If we can get this to work then an EFI conversion for Mopar guys will get easier. This is a combined cam and crank sensor in one drop in unit. Rich spun it on his scope and it looked perfect. We just need to build a new harness and I'll be able to fire up my dyno engine with this unit to see how it works.

OK - where's the waiting line for the EPM Puck Adapter? I'm putting your 36-1 wheel on my wedge so I can run wasted spark. The plan for the Hemi is COP using the puck 24x signal. BTW - the Ford Coyote dumb pencil coils are pretty much a direct fit on my Hemi. Pic #1 has the block with a Mallory Unilite Distributor that I planned to cut down and mount the Puck to. Pic #2 is the Ford Coyote Pencil Coil in place on the Hemi. The last pic is the comparison in length between the FireCore plug wire boot and the Coyote pencil coil.

How do you orient the slot in the puck so that you can set the engine to TDC, align the oil pump drive slot front to back and have the timing close when you drop the puck in with the wiring pigtail coming out towards the centerline of the engine? I was going to hook the whole system up to spin in my milling machine with a degree wheel (cam degrees) and hook a timing light up to the cylinder #1 coil to see where it fired on the degree wheel. That should get me close enough that I can adjust the EPM housing so the computer timing shows the same as the timing wheel timing light signal. You probably have a smarter way to do this. The EPM doesn't really have any timing or alignment marks on it besides where the wiring pigtail comes out of the housing. It would be nice if you could just align the tab on the rotatin shaft coming out of the EPM with where the wiring pigtail comes out and know that the single cam pulse comes out there.

Yeah I have it figured out on how to align the puck with the oil driveshaft so everything is in the correct location at startup. Kind of hard to explain and I don't have the pictures loaded yet but I figured out how to do it. Basically it all depends on where the sensor inside the housing is located and then you work from there.

rumblefish72
What ECU are you planning on using? That will determine your setup procedure. All you need is a DVM connected to the cam output from the puck. Your pic shows FAST throttle bodies but to run COP with FAST you would use the XIM. Also, once you have both cam and crank signals, you don't need to run waste spark.

I'm curious to see timing stability with this all in one setup. I tried something similar(location wise) on my car a long time ago. I was using a Jesel belt drive on the engine, and still had 2 degree timing drift when using a 120-4 wheel (2.75")inside the distributor housing. I assume that the slop was at the oil pump drive gear/ shaft tang. I can only assume a timing chain driven cam would exaggerate the error.
After my little experiment, I personally would not trust a distributor location driven ignition pickup for any serious competition engine.
This IS a great, simple solution for a street bruiser/weekend warrior type build. It is very nice to see the great quality components being put out there, but the crank trigger wheel would be my personal choice.

I wouldn't be surprised to find the same thing. As soon as we get some details sorted out I'll run the module on my dyno mule and we'll see how it does. It might turn out that the all in one setup is for the street/strip and bracket guys while the crank trigger plus cam sync is for the more serious race engines. The all in one solution does test well up past 10,000 rpm but maybe in an engine the cam drive and oil pump harmonics will cause some issues.

Rumblefish - no need to cut down a distributor to run the module. If your ECU will handle the 24x1 signal puck from AEM then I can sell you an adapter for a Hemi. I have a few on hand now from my first prototype run.

Hi Rich - the plan is to use the Coyote coils with the FAST XIM 3013172. Sorry for the wasted spark confusion - that's going on a different engine. I didn't want Andy to get confused since I Recently purchased a 36-1 trigger wheel from him.

The 3012172 is for standalone COP applications, meaning there's no EFI ECU, as would be the case with a carb.

Maybe we should start another "AEM EPM Puck" Thread ... We're starting to get a pretty good highjack on the 36-1 thread and given all the views (8562 and counting) on the 36-1 thread, there will be a big audience for a simple way to get a 24x1 signal onto B/RB/Hemi.

Rich, Yes - I see that FAST 3012172 is standalone. My plan for COP on the Hemi is still in the research phase. You and AndyF got me all excited when I saw that you were working on an adapter for the EPM. I'm trying to finish off the wasted spark system for my Wedge right now but I'm always looking for parts for the next several projects that I have in mind. When my COP plan is in place, I'll send you guys (Rich and Andy) an email with the specifics and ask for comments before I (mis)spend any real money.

And with my current understanding of how things work, I agree with TRENDZ comments on accuracy ... it seems to me that taking the actual timing signal from the crank (trigger wheel or crank trigger) and then getting a cam pulse within the window of degrees allowed from something like the Ford or Jeep cam synch sensor would make for the most accurate overall system. But I wonder if the circuitry of the ignition controller smooths out the timing signal from the crank trigger or the 24 blip signal from the 24x1? And then as mentioned, you can have harmonics in the cam rotation even with a belt drive. I wonder if that is big enough to be observed. I have good measuring equipment but nothing with that type of resolution. In any event, once I get my ECU timing to agree with my timing light timing, I'll go back and double check that periodically to see if the timing light timing drifts a degree or two behind the ECU indicated timing to see if the bronze distributor drive gear is wearing or the timing belt is stretching.

Our EPM Puck will be 8X crank 1X cam, not 24X. Not all EFI systems can handle 24X since that was a short lived GM approach. But any EFI system can handle the typical 8X crank like a normal distributor would create. The EPM puck will be a great solution for anyone wanting to go to CNP (Coil-Near-Plug on a street engine. We agree that for an all-out race engine the separate cam and crank sensors are a more accurate way to go.

Nevertheless - most of my sales and support are hot street engines where the user wants to get the benefits of CNP but hey don't want or need to add a separate crank trigger. The PUCK will handle those needs very well. And it is so small that it does not hit aftermarket heads like the larger dual-sync distributors do.

Well got the engine running again but I ended up putting the old flying magnet back on.
The 36-1 wheel does not clear a stock style 440 source water pump housing. The OD is a little too big.. was a good thought. Might be able to shave down the OD on a lathe as it's maybe a 1/4" too big OD.

Right, the OD of the trigger wheel needs to be larger than the OD of the damper or else the sensor might get confused at what it is looking at. Unfortunately, when the trigger wheel gets larger than the damper then it doesn't fit the stock water pump housing. Most guys don't care since most guys are using an electric water pump when running a crank trigger setup but on a street car I can see why you are running a stock pump.

I do have a solution for that but it isn't ready yet.

I use the CVR drop in pump which seems to work better and outflow anything else I've seen on the market.

Let me know what your thinking for the stock WP setup as the wheels are the nicest I've ever seen yet and fit perfectly for spacing. Wonder if just lathing it down and running my trigger logger to see if it sees any sync loss.

Sorry to grave dig hopefully you're still active. I'm looking at buying this from a distributor and have a question they couldn't answer.

I have a 383 and looking to keep my a/c. Is there different off the shelf pulleys available? I see you said the original is made by doty, but I couldn't find it.

You don't need 36-1 with AC. Just buy a Dual Sync distributor if you have a street car.

The car is setup for road racing and track day events. Pretty set on a crank trigger.
Can you give me any other info on the pulley?

You'll most likely need a custom pulley If you go with a Mopar pattern. You might find what you need if you use a Chevy BB pattern damper. There are a lot more choices for pulleys if you switch to the BBC bolt pattern. There is hardly anything available for Mopar engines.

Fwiw I use a 917470E ATI damper with Andys wheel and I had ASP make an underdrive crank pulley for it.

Originally I just modified an original crank pulley but it was blowing belts off at 7800.

https://www.autospecialties.com/contact/

If that wouldn't work for you they could make something that does.