You nitrous solenoids should have filters, if you bought a kit. Do you fill your own bottles, or have them filled. Most guys who fill use a filter in the fill line to avoid possible contamination in mother bottle. So if this is done no need for an in car filter......But, if won't hurt to run an inline filter.

Plug gap .020-.025

You shouldn't need to purge the fuel solenoid, but if you feel you need to, turn the pump on, crack the line and then retighten. Without engine running of course.

4500-5000 will be fine on activation rpm. If you plan to turn the motor to 7500, that's where you should go

Turbo Guys: Ever give any thought to an electric WG actuator?

I guess the way most handle it now are with compressed air and electronic boost controllers.

Many OEMs are going to electric actuators for WG control, as it allows more flexibility (i.e. opening WG at part throttle for increased fuel economy).

While we are not interested in fuel consumption, the flexibility this could offer might be interesting, during staging, etc. I can't help but look at the actuator on my desk and think about adapting it to an external WG.

I guess no sense in reinventing the wheel, but just thinking out loud...

Nitrous question.

My car runs 10.45 to 10.50 N/A. The BO time in the class I run is 10.10sec, so need to gain about a 1/2 second. It´s not allot, but its still about two car lengths at the finish line, so.. I don´t know if I´ll be able to gain the needed 1/2 second just with chassies tuning (Cal-Tracks, AFCO DA shocks front/rear) and going with a taller slick tire. I ran with a 29.3" diam. Hoosier QTP tire, going 30x9" Hoosier slicks this season. 60ft times kinda suck, got the 60ft down to 1.51sec, but haven´t been able to get the car off the line with out tire spin. I hope with real slicks and some chassies adjustments I´ll be able to get the 60ft times down around 1.45sec. (Hope it would run a 60ft under 1.45sec.)

I don´t think I´d need much nitrous assistance, something like 75hp shot should get me where I need to be?

..any ways, to my questions...

1. Do I need to run higher octane fuel if only adding some 75hp of nitrous? (The engine has 10.8:1 comp. I run on 98oct. pump fuel, don´t know what´s similar in the Usa.)

2. Should I run a separate fuel system or would I be able to run a 75 to 100hp shot with 98oct fuel, just by adding a second regulator for the nitrous fuel feed? (Run a Magnafuel 275 pump)

3. How critical is the carb tune before adding nitrous? Right now the carb (1050 cmf Dominator) runs on the fat side. At full throttle the A/F is around 10.4.

4. How much timing needs to be pulled if adding 75hp shot of nitrous?

5. Should I forget about the whole nitrous deal and just focus on getting the car off the line and get the carb tune better...

-Sorry if my quesions seem dumb, but Im new to nitrous so... I´ll probably have more questions later...

Thanks!
/Tom

I am in the same boat as TomsCharger70. I run 6.20's in the 1/8 and I need to pick up around 2-3 tenths to run in my local 6.0 heads up class. I was thinking around trying the same amount of NOS as him. I am also on pump gas but 93 octane. I need the same info as him.

Here is another question about nitrous I have been thinking about. Might sound dumb, but I just can´t get myhead around on how it works..

So... When you add nitrous, you also have to lower the engines timing. Ok, so this is what Im having trouble understanding.

Lets say you take out 6 degrees of timing from a N/A engine, that would lower the engines horsepower by X amount. So lets say lowering the timing by 6 degres lowers the engines horsepower output by 100hp. So if you add 150hp of nitrous, wouldnt that just give you an added 50hp???

How does this work?

Thanks for taking the time to answer my question.




/Tom

Monte...are some combos just THAT much more nitrous friendly? I mean my car will go 6.teens on motor most of the time, but goes 5.70s w/ a 250 hit on at 3 tenths out.
Yet your customers car goes from 7.teens to 5.70s on a 150 hit.
I know I have a long way to go w/ my car, but seeing results like this make me wonder what I'm doing, lol. Or is this yet another result of running a nearly 2 ton car?

Monte...are some combos just THAT much more nitrous friendly? I mean my car will go 6.teens on motor most of the time, but goes 5.70s w/ a 250 hit on at 3 tenths out.
Yet your customers car goes from 7.teens to 5.70s on a 150 hit.
I know I have a long way to go w/ my car, but seeing results like this make me wonder what I'm doing, lol. Or is this yet another result of running a nearly 2 ton car?

Get rid of the .3 delay. Hit it from the get go and I bet it's a lot quicker .

Could be several things. The smallblock is probably overcammed and has too much head to be an efficient N/A combo, for the given compression and other things. Converter is also probably a little tight. The small shot helps the efficiency of the motor and well as helps the converter on shift recovery.

In your case, I would think a 250 shot should pick you up more than 3 tenths. The converter may be a little loose. What does it fall back to on the shift on the motor and on the hose? If on the spray the drop really tightens, you probably need more stator. It could also be that the motor is fairly efficient as is and the nitrous is just not helping a lot because of cam, exhaust, whatever. HEMIs can be tough on spray. It could be that it just needs a lot more to really run....or the cam has too much overlap and is just putting the charge out the pipes. Hard to say. Look into converter question first.

How much mph does it pick up on spray?

Monte...are some combos just THAT much more nitrous friendly? I mean my car will go 6.teens on motor most of the time, but goes 5.70s w/ a 250 hit on at 3 tenths out.
Yet your customers car goes from 7.teens to 5.70s on a 150 hit.
I know I have a long way to go w/ my car, but seeing results like this make me wonder what I'm doing, lol. Or is this yet another result of running a nearly 2 ton car?