For the rear we used an aluminum plate bolted to the transmission, in place of the torque converter inspection plate/cover that hangs down the depth of the pan. The plate has mounting provisions that the rear of the belly pan bolted up to.

I have thought about doing that. The NHRA rule book for belly pans states something along the lines of the pan covering from frame rail to frame rail. Easy in a chassis car or dragster, not possible in a stock front suspension. I think closing off the K frame on the sides could bring it more in-line the rule, and the argument could be made that by utilizing the k frame and oil catch pan in this manner meets the intent of the frame rail to frame coverage. Might end up making block off plates at some point, especially if I raced regularly. I'm more interested in have a street car lately. I know a few people with similar setups that race regularly and never had an issue with tech. Its all about doing the best you can, no setup diaper or pan is perfect when dealing with stock suspension mopar with a steering link going through the pan.

Thank you for the reply,Ya do what you can and adjust along the way.

That looks very good! Nice work!

I just cut the "k" and set back the engine some.I really dig your vision and will follow in your footsteps!! Thanks for posting that

Put a radius at the end of those cuts so it doesnt
crack

Been thinking about this all afteroon I really like that belly pan that fits in the notched "k".But the diaper also cover the sides of the block.If something blows hard enough to go through the oil pan it will go through that pan also,,,,,,,,

Maybe some Kevlar sheets glued to that pan

I wonder if a stamped side engine cover can be used on both sides.

Not to hi-jack but DRW, is that an Aerospace mandrel for your alt and vacuum pump? I noticed you have a spacer holding it away from the crank trigger wheel. I am wondering how to do mine without having everything all bolted together as one unit. Jim.