Hi all, I'm in the process of building a 360 and want to run a remote oil filter, in the past I have just run the lines off the plate that our Aussie delivered small blocks came with, my question is to run lines directly from block I need to drill and tap the out hole and would like to know what size tap to use.it looks to be about 3/8 NPT but would like your opinion please.
Thanks Luke

Aye mate, I will check mine today for you (if 3/8 or 1/2) & for 3/8 NPT you would drill with a 9/16 bit or a 37/64 if it wants to tap real hard. EDIT first drill in both of em all the way in to the vertical gallery with a 1/2 bit.

I haven't done what your wanting to do yet so keep that in mind. My understanding of the oil routing is the oil from the pump goes through the block through one passage, the smooth smaller one your wanting to drill and tap and returns to the motor through the big hole, correct? If so then make the oil feed hole a little bigger than it is(#8 AN or bigger ) and use full flow fittings so you don't restrict the oil flow
Make sure and put the threaded plug back in to route the oil correctly

If it helps, Diamond sells some nice fittings for that; I use -10 plumbing from them to a Moroso adapter that uses Chevy filters, which on my Duster drag car is mounted to the outside "wall" of the hinge pillar (behind R/F tire); oil changes are easy & neat in that location. Probably not best placement for a street car unless you protect the filter.

drill all the way in with a 1/2" bit. drill/tap the unthreaded & small threaded hole(s) to 3/8 NPT. plug the center threaded hole with a 3/4" fine thread bolt (a harmonic dampener bolt works great). smooth your work in the passages with a tootsie roll. deburr the right angle turns where the (2) horizontle passages meet the vertical passage, the lower one is easy to access & the one deeper in, have a helper shine a light in the horizontle passage as you reach it in the vertical passage with a porting burr with a longer shank. In order: drill with 1/2 then deburr corners then tootsie roll everything then drill/tap holes to 3/8 NPT & maybe a slight tootsie roll useage right there where you drill/tap for the 3/8 fittings to elim any sharp edges. EDIT drill the #5 main cap to 1/2 along with the pump passages. check cap to block & pump to cap oil hole alignment (want 1/2 ID unobstructed from 3/8 NPT ports to main gallery). deburr/smooth everything. MORE EDIT actually 1/2 ID from pickup screen to vertical gallery including every twist & turn.

Thanks for the info guys.

I have used the remote oil filter kit in the past. Works great.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-1122

Hughes racing engines sells a remote kit... from Moroso I think.

I'm planning to install an Accusump.

The remote filter will be mounted just above the heater motor, on the firewall... I'll need a couple right-angle fittings each (from engine, from filter adapter)... actually 4-total, I figure. Firt I'll hook up the remote filter setup, then later the Accusump (on the pass-side inner fenderwell within the engine bay).

just a little more on this, these are the plates our SB came with, from the plate run hard line to filter boss that sat on top of inlet manifold that leaves a mess come oil change time.

so most aussies run the lines off this plate to a better location for the filter.
I like the idea to delete the plate as it takes two right angels out of the system but not sure I will gain any more flow with the id of the 3/8 ntp fittings.
the next two pic are a plate from an early 273 with the filter up front of the engine, the oil came out of that little fitting and run to filter up front and returned to engine through timing cover.


I'm sure you guys had this set up, but unsure so I thought id throw it up anyway.

on another note I had my machinist fit the cam bearings and he put one in a little off however it seems to line up with the main ok. do you think I could save the bearing by running a 1/4" drill down from the deck or replace the bearings.

Actually a 1/16 hole is plenty for cam bearing lubrication (1/8 on the ones that feed the heads) & my pref even on those (2) is to keep em at .062 like the other (3) & either oil the heads externally or draw the oil from the two angled passages tapped into the horizontle oil galleries & have the bearing turned on those two so it dead ends down below. I drill a 1/16 new hole in the cam bearings & clock em to use that hole OR drill/tap the vertical passages from mains to cam & use hex setscrews with a 1/16 hole drilled in them. Keep in mind when clocking, (2) of the cam bearings have (3) holes in each bearing, the one for the vertical feed & another other to feed the heads & the other one is unused. The area in your pic is more than adequate.

ok so that should be fine as is to feed the top end.

it ain't exactly a concentric circle now & there is always camera distorsion but if you have the equivelant area of a 1/8 hole then you are good to go. Just me I would toss those rusty pieces & plumb some common plumbing NPT pipe into the block, maybe I can get some pics of mine later.

narr should be right mate(about the pics I mean)seen a few set ups, all good.
thanks for your advice BTW