Finally going to swap power front drums to power disc on a 1966 Newport. I have 15" rims on it. Some kits include booster, others don't. Do I need to replace the stock booster when going from drum to disc? I haven't decided which way to go. Scarebird, SSBC, newer mopar, on and on. Any kits to avoid or recommendations on what to use? I need something safe/dependable. Looking for best value, not just lowest price. We use it as a weekend cruiser. Thanks

Definitely change the master cylinder and add a proportioning block. Finlines sells what you'll need. You may want to talk with the folks from SSBC.

I would just get some OE discs & I would for sure try it WO adding in a prop valve. it is some work to plumb it & it highly likely wont be needed. I added 76 (2.75") A body single piston discs to my 65 dart, a DD & kept the OE splitter with 10 rear drums & NO issues & stopped flawlessly. For your mild app just me I would not see a need to get crazy with it. get some Ceramic pads.

Been my observations that most aftermarket brake companies do a poor job of outfitting Mopars. Most of the kits are based on GM stuff that does not seem to work well in our applications. Not sure why, but it seems to be an inordinate amount of difficulties going that route.

When I converted my 64 300 to discs I used factory parts. A tape measure and time with a TRW chassis specifications books showed that the late B body (79 Cordoba was the donor for this brake swap) spindles were the proper height to work, and that the ball joint tapers for the Chrysler would fit the B body spindles. I had to use the B body's steering arm as the Chrysler's would not bolt to the B body spindle. This moved the outer tie rod point in enough that I had to shorten the Chrysler's tie rod ends some to make it fit.

I used a later 4 bolt master cylinder for disc brakes and the B body proportioning valve. I retained the original drum booster.

It worked great and cost me a total of $100, well technically less since that same donor provided a 360/auto to swap into my 72 Dart along with putting the power seats, locks, and windows into the Dart. I bought the Doba for $100 and sold the Dart's 225 (with installation included) for $250.

I would rather swap in a later factory setup if at all possible, though 65-72 C bodies are a PITA to find a factory setup as I understand it.

There have been lots of threads on disc brake conversions . . . just have to do a search. . . . for my two cents worth : on my 1970 300Hurst, I used the spindles off a 74 up C body, along with the calipers, rotors. I did get a new master cylinder, but never put it on the car, used the dual reservoir drum unit - yes, it just means you have to make sure residual pressure valve is not in the front disc circuit, AND have to be vigilant on checking the fluid level for front discs. Car stopped great !!! . . . .

As for the F,M,J, body spindle debate . . . yup, I am going to open that up - as I have have used the spindles from those cars on other disc brake conversions (the Chrysler 5th ave. are still relatively out there). The bottom bolts on the spindle needed a washer to get the castle nut lined up and tight. You need the correct calipers - with bleeder located on top, and then I went with stainless steel braided brake hose (Dr. Diff sells). All the talk about the height being too tall, well, maybe if you are driving on roads where you have full wheel travel up & down . . . but for the 10k miles I have put on the one car, no issues at all. Alignment perfect and stops great - and this car is B body with manual brakes, no power.

I think one of the best sources is Cas - Dr. Diff. He can sell you a kit, or parts/pieces . . . . and is happy to give advise. . . .

Cheers

Mark

it is 73 c-body discs that are a direct swap in for your 66.
I was unaware, and am not sure how a 74 and up would bolt in.

scaredbird may work, but will push your fronts outboard a bit. So be aware if you filled the wheel wells, it may push your tires out past them.

Didn't think ssbc were good on the street, and was unaware they even make a c-body conversion.

The drum power booster does not provide sufficent assist to fully lock up the brakes.
They will stop the car and work fine, but you will be missing some panic stopping ability.

The later 73 booster will bolt up, but on a column shift car, and I think autopilot car, it causes some interference.
mainly the column shift won't go into low.

I do not believe there is any easy way to adapt b-body spindles to a c-body.
However, there was a person that adapted later van/truck spindles, at some point.
he cross refrenced the rotors and found that some van's up till the 80's used the same rotor and managed to take the spindles off those and get them to bolt in.
don't remember how much work, or how far off they were. but I would bet they are a lot easier to find than a 73 c body right now.

I've had the car about 10 years. First thing I did was to update the mc to a disc brake dual. That's as far as I got. So if I can't find 73 chrysler parts near by, anything else fit?

try here.
http://cbodydrydock.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?181703.0

I got my 73 spindles at car-part.com

69 to 73 is a direct bolt in. The 73 spindle is a one year only deal that takes the one piece unicast rotor which is used on vans and pick ups into the eighties. They are cheaper than the earlier 2 piece that the 72 and earlier uses.

The only difference between the 2 rotors is the bearing size. Apparently they are now selling 1 piece unicast rotors that are machined for the earlier small bearings so that opens up your spindle options a bunch.

Dr Diff has a set of spacer sleeves that might allow you to use the later rotors on early spindles if needed.

All the other components are the same from 69 to 73.

You need the dual diaphragm disc booster to generate the proper assist.

I have a 69 disc booster on my 66 which appears smaller in diameter than the 73 single diaphragm one.

My car is a floor shift so I don't know if it would interfere with a column linkage or not.

Kevin

the earlier boosters, I think 70 and back, were smaller dual diaphram setup's for discs.
But they are expensive to get now if you can find them at all.