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Returnless EFI Question #2258123
02/23/17 11:15 AM
02/23/17 11:15 AM
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kielbasa Offline OP
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Hi guys, just wondering what the latest consensus is regarding returnless vs non returnless. My searches about this matter have brought up threads anywhere from 5 to 10 years old - consensus there is return style is advantageous (hot soak, better pressure regulation, better transient response, etc.)....does this still hold true or have advancements been made that this argument is no longer valid? Asking because I do prefer the easier install and cleaner look of returnless.
The car in question would be for a 500hp street car.
Thanks for any info!

Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: kielbasa] #2258130
02/23/17 11:39 AM
02/23/17 11:39 AM
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Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo Offline
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I did an EFI swap and used a GM LS1 fuel filter/regulator, installed it near the tank so there was no return line going to the engine bay. A lot of the OEM has gone that way so it can't be all bad.

Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: kielbasa] #2258147
02/23/17 12:12 PM
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kielbasa Offline OP
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my thoughts exactly, but that is not the feeling I get when reading/watching some videos and other info - but like I said, a lot of that is info that is several years old.....

Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: kielbasa] #2258169
02/23/17 12:56 PM
02/23/17 12:56 PM
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Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383 Offline
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For 500 hp a dead head system is fine. If you do run into uneven air fuel ratios because of heat soaked fuel, you can tweak the pulse width of individual injectors to compensate.

Unless you're building an all out max power set up, you would likely never notice a power difference in a return style vs dead head


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Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: kielbasa] #2258182
02/23/17 01:42 PM
02/23/17 01:42 PM
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jbc426 Offline
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The latest high output factory stuff is all returnless using PWM to control the pumps. The have very high flow pump modules that drop into the tank from an opening on top. The Cadillac CTSV module is one of the highest output pumps. Modified modules with 1, 2, or 3 pumps can easily feed well-upwards of 2000 hp.

A high flow pump running at full output all the time, especially against a dead head regulator generates a lot of heat. They say its the equivalent of having a 240 watt light bulb in you tank. Two pumps more heat and 3 pumps even more heat.

The trick they use to manage this is to keep the pumps from running at full power all the time and heating the fuel. At idle and low volume demand such as cruising, they modulate the power feed to them using PWM (pulse width modulation). The data to control the PWM is gleaned from the ECM/engine computer.


1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: kielbasa] #2258222
02/23/17 03:22 PM
02/23/17 03:22 PM
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Bad340fish Offline
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I would try to stay return less for something that gets driven a bunch.

I run a return EFI system on my 68 and I have enough fuel pump for about 550HP and a second pump staged for back up. I have problems with heating the fuel when driving around town or extended highway drives. Because it is returning so much fuel back to the tank from the hot engine compartment it heats up the whole load of fuel. I even added a small cooler with a fan on the return line.

My EFI system can handle PWM control so I am going to think about trying that to reduce the amount of returned fuel under light load conditions.

The fuel heating issue is the only thing I have not been happy with after going EFI. It has never stranded me but the pump sure does scream when its pumping hot fuel.


68 Barracuda Formula S 340
Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: kielbasa] #2258285
02/23/17 07:14 PM
02/23/17 07:14 PM
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larrymopar360 Offline
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I just installed FiTech's Fuel Injection with return line and external pump. How will this heat issue present itself, if it does? Stalling? Dying? I did notice a heck of a lot of fuel returns thru that line.

Thanks.


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: kielbasa] #2258381
02/23/17 11:01 PM
02/23/17 11:01 PM
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Florida
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FiTech has the ability to PWM the fuel pump, you can adjust to reduce the amount of fuel returned to the tank.

Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: larrymopar360] #2258444
02/24/17 12:36 AM
02/24/17 12:36 AM
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Bad340fish Offline
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Originally Posted By larrymopar360
I just installed FiTech's Fuel Injection with return line and external pump. How will this heat issue present itself, if it does? Stalling? Dying? I did notice a heck of a lot of fuel returns thru that line.

Thanks.


In my case the pump gets very loud. How I understand it that the fuel is hot and the little bit of vacuum the pump pulls on it causes it to vaporize and cavitate at the entrance to the pump which is why the pump gets loud.

My car is multi port and the rails are bolted to the intake. I think there is more heat soak there than in a throttle body injection. I would use a phenolic spacer if you have room just like a carb. I tried to isolate my rails with nylon washers so there is as little contact as possible but under hood temps are just high regardless. After lots of driving a IR temp gun will read just about any part of the fuel system at 130-140 degrees, including the tank.


68 Barracuda Formula S 340
Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: jbc426] #2258635
02/24/17 12:08 PM
02/24/17 12:08 PM
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DaytonaTurbo Offline
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Originally Posted By jbc426

A high flow pump running at full output all the time, especially against a dead head regulator generates a lot of heat.


We're not talking about dead head regulators. The ones in question are return style regulators mounted near the tank so you have a "returnless" fuel line feeding the engine bay.

Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: Bad340fish] #2258636
02/24/17 12:19 PM
02/24/17 12:19 PM
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Cincinnati, Ohio
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Originally Posted By Bad340fish
Originally Posted By larrymopar360
I just installed FiTech's Fuel Injection with return line and external pump. How will this heat issue present itself, if it does? Stalling? Dying? I did notice a heck of a lot of fuel returns thru that line.

Thanks.


In my case the pump gets very loud. How I understand it that the fuel is hot and the little bit of vacuum the pump pulls on it causes it to vaporize and cavitate at the entrance to the pump which is why the pump gets loud.

My car is multi port and the rails are bolted to the intake. I think there is more heat soak there than in a throttle body injection. I would use a phenolic spacer if you have room just like a carb. I tried to isolate my rails with nylon washers so there is as little contact as possible but under hood temps are just high regardless. After lots of driving a IR temp gun will read just about any part of the fuel system at 130-140 degrees, including the tank.


Like you already know, your pump is cavatating. That is what is causing your problem.

It is not caused by returning too much fuel and heating up the fuel.

These problems are always on the inlet side of the pump and even with a return that is not going to solve inlet plumbing problems.

I am thinking your pump is not in the fuel tank? Am I correct?

How is your pump mounted and how is plumbed with what size lines.

Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: kielbasa] #2258660
02/24/17 12:55 PM
02/24/17 12:55 PM
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Bad340fish Offline
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Its not cavatating until the fuel is hot, the pumps are ultra quite with cool fuel. Just general running around town doesn't cause problems, its extended drives where the fuel gets heated up that is.

This is a new setup and I do think moving the pumps will help, but it won't keep the fuel cooler. The pumps are behind the tank and are about 4" above the outlets in the bottom of the sump.


68 Barracuda Formula S 340
Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: Bad340fish] #2258665
02/24/17 01:11 PM
02/24/17 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted By Bad340fish
Its not cavatating until the fuel is hot, the pumps are ultra quite with cool fuel. Just general running around town doesn't cause problems, its extended drives where the fuel gets heated up that is.

This is a new setup and I do think moving the pumps will help, but it won't keep the fuel cooler. The pumps are behind the tank and are about 4" above the outlets in the bottom of the sump.


I am telling you and am sure it is caused by improper inlet plumbing, too small or too much restriction or not gravity fed. Any of that causes the fuel and pump to heat up and makes the cavatating more pronounced when warm. Eventually the pump will die a premature death. It is cavatating from the start even when the fuel is cool, just not as much as when it gets warmer so you don't hear it.

Just trying to help you, not guessing here. IMO you are on the wrong track as to your problems and hate to see bad info get spread around.

Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: kielbasa] #2258675
02/24/17 01:28 PM
02/24/17 01:28 PM
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Bad340fish Offline
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I will be the first to tell you I am not an expert. I do not want to spread bad info around.

I am not the only one with this problem though. Lots of drag week guys have this problem. While my pump location could be the problem, and I do plan on moving it. But its my belief most of the problem is flowing 550-600HP worth of fuel but only using a small amount of it so a huge percentage is going back to the tank. Its going back to the tank after it has picked up heat from the 180* engine compartment.


68 Barracuda Formula S 340
Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: Bad340fish] #2258679
02/24/17 01:35 PM
02/24/17 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted By Bad340fish
I will be the first to tell you I am not an expert. I do not want to spread bad info around.

I am not the only one with this problem though. Lots of drag week guys have this problem. While my pump location could be the problem, and I do plan on moving it. But its my belief most of the problem is flowing 550-600HP worth of fuel but only using a small amount of it so a huge percentage is going back to the tank. Its going back to the tank after it has picked up heat from the 180* engine compartment.


Very few guys know how to properly plumb a fuel system, especially a gasoline fuel system.

I have plumbed many race cars with the smallest being a 1000 hp BB.

Improper plumbing has unnecessary sold 1000s of fuel pumps over the years too.

I am telling you with 100% certainty that the fuel pump has to be gravity fed, flooded with fuel when it is external. Can't suck it up hill, not even a little.

Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: kielbasa] #2258689
02/24/17 01:46 PM
02/24/17 01:46 PM
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Bad340fish Offline
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I can say this from experience, if you take the line off feeding the pump it will push fuel out at a rapid rate lol.

I do know a few of the guys I talked to that had screaming fuel pumps had them mounted below the fuel cell. I have not been stranded by this problem but I do know many have. I have seen plenty of guys pack ice bags around fuel cells before lol.

I do realize I need to move my pump but since I am not going to do drag week this year I probably won't do it soon haha. I run a stock tank with a baffled sump so getting the pumps low enough without it looking dumb from behind the car will be a challenge.


68 Barracuda Formula S 340
Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: Challenger 1] #2258691
02/24/17 01:47 PM
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kielbasa Offline OP
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you DO need good head pressure to the pump if pulling the fuel - otherwise the fuel just pulls apart (especially if it has any ethanol and is at temp)....if possible, I always advocate pushing the fuel (in tank pump)......


Last edited by kielbasa; 02/24/17 01:49 PM.
Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: Bad340fish] #2258692
02/24/17 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted By Bad340fish
I can say this from experience, if you take the line off feeding the pump it will push fuel out at a rapid rate lol.

I do know a few of the guys I talked to that had screaming fuel pumps had them mounted below the fuel cell. I have not been stranded by this problem but I do know many have. I have seen plenty of guys pack ice bags around fuel cells before lol.

I do realize I need to move my pump but since I am not going to do drag week this year I probably won't do it soon haha. I run a stock tank with a baffled sump so getting the pumps low enough without it looking dumb from behind the car will be a challenge.


I hear you and agree on the pumps being too low and looking dumb or even be dangerous in a rear end impact.

Put the pump in the tank. Why do you have 2 pumps?

Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: kielbasa] #2258738
02/24/17 03:01 PM
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Bad340fish Offline
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Two pumps for redundancy, and with my EFI I can stage them. I run one pump all the time of course then at greater than 60% throttle and over 3000RPM the computer will kick the second pump on. It will run on one pump but its pretty close to its limits at 550ish HP so the second pump is there for insurance. Plus in the event of a pump failure on the road I can move one wire in the back to turn the secondary pump into the primary pump.

Just something I did to keep a 10 second street car reliable when travelling the back roads of the Midwest on drag week.


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Re: Returnless EFI Question [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #2258746
02/24/17 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted By DaytonaTurbo
Originally Posted By jbc426

A high flow pump running at full output all the time, especially against a dead head regulator generates a lot of heat.


We're not talking about dead head regulators. The ones in question are return style regulators mounted near the tank so you have a "returnless" fuel line feeding the engine bay.


Actually, it is you who is talking about return style regulators mounted near the tank. The OP asked about deadhead or returnless systems versus return style systems.

The return regulators near the tank with a deadhead line to the engine compartment are nice, but it is still much better to use PWM to control and match the power to the pump to engine demand in any of these systems.


1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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