From a TV commercial.

I wish I could find somewhere in my area that re-arched springs. I've searched and found none so always ended up buying new.

My "Hencho in Mehico" Superstock springs 456/457 flattened out and have a reverse arch in the rear after only 1 season of use (abuse). The car has probably dropped 3" in ride height.

They worked fine for a best of 1.54 60 ft. earlier in the season then became junk.

Now they wrap in an S shape so bad it killed the rear u-joint at the end of the season.

Cal-Trac bars and mono's comin' up...

I should really know by now to NEVER buy anything with the MP label..

GY3 you have any pics of the arch in the springs?
i'm curious, as i think the springs would work ok on my car...i don't have a 500 inch BB.
but i don't want the rear of the car super high in the air....

No, but I can get some. It may be later in the week when it warms up...

My 2 year old MP Mexican special junk Super Stock springs have flattened and sagged about 2" which has caused the rear shackles to lean towards the rear of the car moving the rear of the springs in the same direction.

So one time last summer when I hammered on my 440 speed Challenger stretching out the springs then let off the gas, the springs(yes both sides) decided to take a bite out of my rear valance.

Thankfully there was no damage but I had to add a clamp on the rear segment of the springs to keep this from happening again until I get a chance to replace the junk springs.

As to the "flat spring" issue - spring rate and mounting points normally dictate ride height. IMO if the mount points are in the stock location, the car at ride height should be in the middle 1/3 of the shock travel, and preferably right in the middle. A car almost sitting on the bump stops defiantly has an issue, and most likely it is not enough spring rate. Personally I like to see about 2-2 1/2" of arch between the center of the mounting bolts and the surface of the center pin at ride height, and I adjust my mount points and/or spring rate accordingly. And also IMO the replacement springs offered today are not the same quality as the OEM's were.


That said - the sooner you realize that any spring, by nature, is designed to store and release energy, and really doesn't have any business mounting a drive axle to a (performance) car, the farther ahead you will be. Anytime you look at a successful leaf sprung car, you will see that they have eliminated the spring action from the front segment - be it Caltracs, SS springs, slapper bars, spring clamps, etc. Can leaf springs be made to work? Yes, usually at the expense of ride quality, because again - you have to stiffen the front segment to eliminate spring deflection/wrap-up. Leaf springs are a cost effective way to mount a drive axle, not an efficient one.