Getting ready to shoot a 65 383 factory Turquoise. I usually go with a paint gun and have the paint mixed and the results have been pretty nice, but if there is a better way I would be interested. What type of paint do you prefer, application, and Primer (if used)? Also, my paint supplier (local) said he can't mix the color that I need to duplicate the correct shade (New paint store owner, part of the reason for this question). What are the preference of gun with paint mixed vs. rattle can, type of primer, coats, etc etc.

Thanks. I am sure this has been beat to death in the past, but also a lot of great knowledge and experience on here to work with.

I like to etch prime the engine, gun spray Dupont Centari hardened straight enamel, no discoloration, no peeling, no lifting, no issues

I put it on thick, wet and shiny, no dusting or orange peel finish, eventually after a few heat cycles the gloss "flattens" out somewhat so as to not look over done in the shine department

I see too many that shoot for that "dry/dull factory look", it just ends up being/looking like a dirt/grease magnet later and difficult to wipe down

How about painting it with the right color spray can. Then using a quality catalyzed clear over the top of it for durability?

(Got over 20 years going on a 440 rattle-canned with engine primer, and MP 'street Hemi' orange...

Not perfect, but holding-up well...

I would be cautious of clear coating engine parts as I have seen aluminum intakes done that way and they turn light gold/yellow over time. I don't know if they were cleared with rattle can paint, or a high solids automotive paint.

You may also find that the solvents used to reduce car paint will attack non-hardened rattle can paint so you may want to test drive the compatibility first before painting an entire engine.

I don't have a paint gun so I use good paint in a Preval sprayer. It works great for detailing small parts, and it will work for painting engines too.

I like to etch prime the engine, gun spray Dupont Centari hardened straight enamel, no discoloration, no peeling, no lifting, no issues

I put it on thick, wet and shiny, no dusting or orange peel finish, eventually after a few heat cycles the gloss "flattens" out somewhat so as to not look over done in the shine department

I see too many that shoot for that "dry/dull factory look", it just ends up being/looking like a dirt/grease magnet later and difficult to wipe down

Same here got a couple up around 25 years old
even spilled gas on the things hold up very well

Why can't they mix the paint? Is it due to copyright or trademark issues? A good paint shop should be able to match any color.

I like the east woods ceramic engine paint. Add the hardener and it resists stains, and can be wiped with solvents to clean any mess, like oil residue from a bad valve cover gasket

Thanks. That is very similar to what I have done in the past with PPG Single Stage and had good results but always looking for a better method and product; I may try Centari this time.

Honestly, I think the new owner doesn't know his business very well, the previous owner was spot on and even saved all the special mix combos for his customer in a database for reference. There is another reputable paint supplier that I haven't used before but will paying a visit since my source is retired.

I have had mixed results with engine paint in a spray can, what is the best brand/source for an accurate color match out there.

Also, I am running the 440 Source Aluminum Stealth Heads on this engine, what is the best way to prime and paint the heads to match the block and intake?

I also like the Eastwood paint... went on very nice..

Etch Primer...I prefer either Dupont Vari-Prime (gun spray), or in a pinch I'll spray bomb Dupli-color Engine etch primer, works great on aluminum and cast iron, or steel...then I top coat usually with Dupont Centari straight catalyzed/hardened enamel

Thank you.

I use single stage urethane and mix it with clear for the final coat. A bare block I epoxy first.