While I was driving my 70 Cuda 440+6, the ignition cut out and glided to a stop. I don't see anything obvious under the hood or under the steering column.

Any tips?

I had some electrical problems many years ago that blew my fusible link. I installed a regular fuse holder in that location & carried fuses with me for about 2 yrs. until I finally redid the dash wiring.

All the power for the car except starter & headlights (I think) goes through that wire, so your short could be just about anywhere and blow that link. You'll have to track down the short.

I used to think about making my car "stealth" by putting a switch inline with that fusible link wire & one more in the brake light circuit. Turn off those two switches & only the headlights & engine get power....not that anyone would ever need that

Check voltage at coil positive for power with a meter or test lite. With ignition switch in run position. No power, work backward thru wiring to ignition switch.

If power, check distributor condenser, wiring, points,,,,if you have factory system.

If all well, get back to us for more.

What Sxr said, it died in ign1 "run" so with key on see if the coil positive primary terminal is hot and if converted to electronic ign see if the blue/yellow terminal at the ECU pentastar connector is hot also. I'm assuming you checked the AP for a squirt

It takes a pretty good short to blow a fusible link. Good luck finding it.

My Taurus SHO would blow a fusible link every time I let out the clutch. As you can guess, I couldn't get it out of the driveway. After lots of looking I found the clutch cable end at the clutch lever on the transaxle had penetrated the main wiring bundle and wouldn't you know contacted the large red wire carrying most of the current.

R.

I had an alternator short out internally once and do that to me.

That just happened to me last month. Fusible link did its job.

Look very closely at all the wiring harnesses, engine harness, front light harness, rear taillight harness and so on, Look for melted tape Once you find that your on the right tack to fixing it, especially under the dash and the engine compartment The bulkhead connections can corrode and cause a high resistance which will make the alternator over charge, same thing on the back nuts on the amp gauge, they can vibrate loose and cause the same thing
Let us know what you find

Thank you all!