Art...If the shop doesn't have the jig with the pucks to align with I think I would pass on letting them weld it back together.
I have a guy local to me who narrows rears with all of the jigs for different ones. He said he has to use the press on most housings to get them straight in order to re-weld them back together with the tubes and bearing races in line.
If when they press the tube and axle apart the backing plate gets damaged I may have an extra one of those around also.
Different years are slightly different even though they may both be 10x2.
When you source a housing be sure it is from a 65. I'm pretty sure 66-67 are a little wider with 68-70 being slightly wider yet. You may be able to call DR. Diff and Cass may know...

You can reuse your chuck , there should be nothing wrong with it.

The shop should be able to get the end off without damaging too much but you need someone with a JIG that can weld the end back on straight. there should be a driveline shop somewhere in your area , or find a shop that builds race cars , they will have the jig.

The housing may end up a tad shorter, the thickness of your cut? No biggie, that is lost in the noise.

I think you may have cut too much off though if you cut if off beyond the part of the housing that holds the race?picture I can't see ? That part of the housing is messed up if the race is stuck in it and should be replaced with a fresh end, I'd not be too confident in it holding the race from spinning when reassembled.

You might be better off just starting with another housing?

You might be better off just starting with another housing?
It wouldn't be a bad idea to get it with the axles...

Well. I can't believe I read this whole thread. Sounded like a simple problem with plenty of help but it has ended up in the worst case scenario. So, my two cents worth. I've built lots of rear ends and restored plenty of housing. It is amazing how many housings are out there that are patched together because of bearing problems. Do not have it welded back together. Unless the shop has the proper jig AND knows how to weld it, it will not be straight. Get another housing pure and simple. Be sure and get one that has good axles because I would not trust that yours may be usable. Hopefully you can get one from a close source because shipping is expensive. I think you are correct that the 65 is a one year only housing and the most narrow b body. I've got one but the shipping you kill you from Texas to NY.

the LV show is usually a FAST event , maybe someone from down your way is heading up and can transport it for a small fee ... but the FAST guys are a great bunch and would haul it for free more than likely.

I don't know anyone around me heading that way...

Thanks for the advice guys, I'll go for a new housing ..

My area has some pretty solid Mopar resources for an 8-3/4. We have salvage yards and enthusiasts, from drag racers to 1-of-1 trailer queens. I put the word out that I'm looking. My favorite salvage yard is an hour away, he's got several '65's ...and I know another closer yard with a 65 Satellite with reasonable prices.

Both these yards are "pick your own parts" ... so I'll call and hope they have something not too buried in the mud...

Then there's Mopart's own "Budman" in NJ who parts out a lotta '65s... I'll try him too.
I'll update ya, include some fun salvage yard pics if I go that route.

Cheers,
- Art

Good. Next week will see if I get this thing back on the road -

I got hold of a local Mopar guy who's got a solid parts stash and he's invited me over to pick through a bunch of used rear ends for the right length (54-5/16") and we'll check the leaf spring perch distance too.. I'll bring my old one and he'll take it off my hands (...probably for scrap cuz nobody I've talked to around here says there is a reliable shop to weld these things).

Asking price $150, including the brake plate I need, sounds good to me.
- Art

Take your old backing plate with you and make sure you get a RH plate and not a LH...emergency brake cable hole is in the front...

Lots of interruptions, but I'm slowly making progress;

I picked up the used rear end from a local Mopar hobbyist known to have salvage parts. Pulled it out of a pile of semi-rusty rear ends. Had to measure each one to find the right size. May original was 54". We found tons of 56" and 57". I settled for the only 55" we could find, it should fit and the leaf spring perches were at the correct 44".

I realized that I had to have it with the axle shafts to fit the 55" housing so he gave me those with it..
Yep, I got the correct brake backer plate.

Two weeks and I had the rusty housing sandblasted, painted it, let it cure and cleaned out all the old gunk inside.

The axle shafts that came with the new rear end need new bearings, I talked with Cass yesterday and ordered what I need (Dr Diff)... I'm looking locally for a gasket for the 8-3/4" 10-bolt case...

I'll update with whatever difficulties I encounter putting this thing back together again.
- Art

Call Cass back and have him send you one of his complete gasket kits for the 8 3/4...

Thanks, I did call him back. He had shipped my order already...

but I'm good - NAPA had the correct gasket and I put the pumpkin in yesterday... Also got the rear end back in the car before it started raining, hung the leaf springs back up.

Next I'll push the brake plate studs back in the flange so I can slide the brake plates on and reinstall the brake cylinders, brake lines, and bleed it.

IIRC Cass said the steel crush gasket goes against the axle flange, with the rib against the flange, then the foam gasket, then the brake plate.. ?...

..I'm a bit unsure about that sequence, but I'll check my FSM or call Cass again before tightening it all down.. *

Cheers,
- Art

* I won't be tightening much of anything down until its time to tighten the retaining plate bolts - after I get the new bearings on the axle shafts and slide them in..

Art the steel shim goes between the backing plate and the axle flange and the foam gasket goes between the backing plate and the bearing retainer with stock bearings.

Thank you!

The axles are at the machinist's this morning having new bearings pressed on. So I wait. In the meantime, here are some pictures of the carnage to entertain you. In appreciation for all your help..

Here is taking the old rear end out...



Indexed the tube with those paint stripes and cut with an angle grinder..



Pulled the axles out and lifting the pumpkin off the useless old housing..



My 6 year old son Simon likes to keep me company in the garage. Doing online homework even. Now that's a great boy!


Picked up the new housing with axle shafts and brake plate. Sandblasted, and here it's getting hi-build primer I had left on the shelf..


Rattle can black enamel is next..


Putting the old pumpkin back in..


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Put snubber plate on the diff and ready to go back under the car..


I put the whole thing back in yesterday - added foam gaskets and brake plates, installed the brake cylinders and bled the lines, mounted the shocks.. only thing left is to slide the axles in, tap them in place, and adjust to correct endplay..

Thanks again,
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Cheers! - Art

End play adjustment was so simple when I did mine... Not sure why its made such a big deal.. Use of a dial indicator maybe?

Making progress - yesterday I picked up the drive axles from the shop with new OEM taper bearings.
In the afternoon I got around to knocking the inner oil seals into place, no idea they needed so much blunt force to install.

Working on the Maserati this morning - 11qt oil & filter change and a brake bleed then I'll take it to a mechanic-friend 25 miles west of here for lunch.

This afternoon I'll finish packing grease into the new bearings, then I'll slide them into place after my kids get home from school and see how far I get reinstalling all the brake hardware... also I've gotta get the adjusting ring loosened from the retainer plate, it's pretty crusty at the threads. I'll do that after I've bolted the retainer to the flange to hold it in place.

-Art

SUCCESS!
Guys, I am immensely thankful for all your help.... The whole darn job got finished up today. The axles went in with a few gentle whacks, my son helped me bleed the brakes, I filled the diff case up with gear oil.

I took her out around the neighborhood, nice and smooth. Then I drove a bit further to get some fresh gas.. Then out onto the highway for 10 miles or so - the sound is completely gone, it behaves magnificently.. I got the end play adjusted right, but the FSM says to check it again after driving so I'll save that for next season..

PS - The rear sway bar is an improvement too - flatter cornering and easy to control onset of oversteer with throttle.. might just need to install some oil pan baffles to prevent starvation when cornering.

Very very relieved to finally be finished before the snow flies - the next several day's forecast is rain & sleet - I got her into storage this evening... saw a DPW truck out salting just afterwards..

Thanks all for your help!
- Art

Ain't this a fun hobby! plumbing in an accumulator might be a non invasive way around that